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Firewood- favorite saw

SamT1

SamT1

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Nov 18, 2018
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I’d run the 460 with a 18” bar. That’s what I was going to buy before doing the top end on my 440. I always though high things of the 036 class saws, but after running a 440 I can’t go back down in power. Sure is tempting to do a 036 with motor work though and save that 1#

The rough looking saw is my brother 361 with a China big bore kit on it. The newer is my 440 that has a prolite bar and aftermarket handle and plastics. Both have 18” bars. Both topped off with fuel and oil. Both dirty. I don’t have a stock to stock comparison though with same bars.
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Huskyuser

Huskyuser

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Jun 22, 2018
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38
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54
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New England
I have a two Husky's; a 455 and a smaller 345. I also have a Johnsered.

I maintain then myself which includes sharpening the chains. Both are stock with the exception of the bars. The 455 and Johnsered are for the big stuff and the lighter 345 is for the small stuff to to 12 inches in diameter.
 
NIP Group
stumpy75

stumpy75

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Mar 5, 2011
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Toledo, OH
The saw size seems to be dictated by the limb, or log size most often cut.
Most cuts are 10 to 12" dia.or smaller. The 046 seems great for cuts 8" and bigger.
I like the 017 for cleaning up the tops.
N
I use the saws in my sig. Like the OP, I don't get into wood that's much over 24"(usually smaller), so the MS261 works good for that. The MS210 is a nice smaller saw for tops. For what I cut, it works for me.
 

GVS

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Apr 1, 2008
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602
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Malone,NY
I have used a stock 036 and stock 361, stock 026, 260 and 261. Also, a ported 036 and 261. The ported 261 and 036 are the ones I still have.

If you're gonna keep it stock, I'd go with a 60cc saw. Maybe 361/362 or 555/562. If you're gonna get it ported, the 50cc saws are worth a look. Also, if you're gonna use it in the woods, the lighter saws are much nicer. That ported 261 is definitely my go-to saw. So light, so angry, so smooth, and still user friendly. Easy to start and restart, great air filter, captive bar nuts, etc.

A good idea to take more saw with you than you'll need
 
Trapper_Pete

Trapper_Pete

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Wisconsin
it will of course depend on the trees you get most often . how much you need to cut ect..

it would be real hard to go wrong for the price and what it will do with a Husqvarna 455 or 460 or the Jonsered 2255 same saw different color most of the time they come with a 20 inch bar step down to the 18 inch bar save the 20 for when you need to fall trees that are a bit larger or an occasional cutting of rounds over 32 inches in diameter.

plenty of them out there , parts available and common , but a good track record for running with just fuel , oil and little else for attention.

not the fastest saw in the world but fast enough to not feel like your waiting around on the saw

a 2255/455 with an 18 inch bar , 3/8 chisel chain , 7/32 file , a vise, and you can make a lot of BTU for the $ and at some point that is what firewood cutting is about making BTU to heat the house and not really about the saw or other tools used.

for 500 dollars you can get a saw and a pair of saw chaps and start making heat.
 
066blaster

066blaster

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I’d run the 460 with a 18” bar. That’s what I was going to buy before doing the top end on my 440. I always though high things of the 036 class saws, but after running a 440 I can’t go back down in power. Sure is tempting to do a 036 with motor work though and save that 1#

The rough looking saw is my brother 361 with a China big bore kit on it. The newer is my 440 that has a prolite bar and aftermarket handle and plastics. Both have 18” bars. Both topped off with fuel and oil. Both dirty. I don’t have a stock to stock comparison though with same bars.
View attachment 694891
View attachment 694892
i always liked the way those 440's looked. I like the square look. i dont like the rounded off new ones
 
Husky Man

Husky Man

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Sep 28, 2017
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Mt Hood, Oregon
For over 25 years a Husky 266XP with a 24" bar, and a Husky 23 Compact with a 16" bar were my 2 saw plan.

That 266XP, made a Husky believer out of me, never parting with that saw.

Now we're cutting bigger wood at higher elevations 4,500-6,000' and my 266 was gettin the job done, but working harder than I liked, and I got interested in Milling, so I got a 3120XP, a 395XP and a 372XP are waiting for Budget appropriations;). I never knew just how much I "Needed" a Good 50cc saw, until I picked up a Nice Husky 353in wood up to 12-14" the 353 gets a lot of use, up to 20-24" I grab the 266, and over 24" I grab the 3120.

I had cut plenty over 24" with the 266, mostly at lower elevations back then, but I prefer to cut from one side, I would rather use the 3120 from one side than have to cut 24"+ from both sides with the 266, especially bucking, where the weight of the saw really isn't that big of a deal. In 30"+ wood the 3120 is a lot of fun.

If buying new, today, it would probably be something like a 550XP, a 372XP, and a 390XP, or 395XP for firewooding, a little top handle is also useful. If your not cutting wood over 20-24", a 550XP and a 372XP would be a great 2 saw plan.


Doug :cheers:
 
SamT1

SamT1

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i always liked the way those 440's looked. I like the square look. i dont like the rounded off new ones
Me too, I wish I had a NIB one stashed away like someone here on arborist site that we won’t call out. I kinda regret selling all the worn saws I had over the years, especially my first 036 pro.
I’m kinda torn on what I want. Ran that 361 of my brother’s today after a tune up and it’s a dog compared to the 440, and the stock 440 is a dog compared to my modded one. I’ll probably end up with a farmer tec 440 kit and have someone port it or just try it myself for what the parts cost. Can’t really cry for screwing up a $20 jug. Up until I put that 361 in some wood I had the fever to build a light and fast 360 class saw. The saw fever is strong.

I even got my John Deere 55V going while waiting on my wife to get in gear to come stack wood (didn’t happen, stacked cut split 3 cords myself) but anyway that 55V hadnt been run in 10 years or more. I wish I had run it against the 361. I think it’s slow but torqy If i recall correct. I was given it gently used to start cutting wood for money when I was 14. Ran it long enough to buy a 036 pro.
 
Ryan'smilling

Ryan'smilling

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Me too, I wish I had a NIB one stashed away like someone here on arborist site that we won’t call out. I kinda regret selling all the worn saws I had over the years, especially my first 036 pro.
I’m kinda torn on what I want. Ran that 361 of my brother’s today after a tune up and it’s a dog compared to the 440, and the stock 440 is a dog compared to my modded one. I’ll probably end up with a farmer tec 440 kit and have someone port it or just try it myself for what the parts cost. Can’t really cry for screwing up a $20 jug. Up until I put that 361 in some wood I had the fever to build a light and fast 360 class saw. The saw fever is strong.

I even got my John Deere 55V going while waiting on my wife to get in gear to come stack wood (didn’t happen, stacked cut split 3 cords myself) but anyway that 55V hadnt been run in 10 years or more. I wish I had run it against the 361. I think it’s slow but torqy If i recall correct. I was given it gently used to start cutting wood for money when I was 14. Ran it long enough to buy a 036 pro.

Lots of guys built this kit 440s for Randy's GTG last year, and a lot of them swore off kit saws after the experience. Might want to look hard before pulling the trigger.
 
Trapper_Pete

Trapper_Pete

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Didn’t you just put a 28” bar on a 2166 Trapper? The 2165 is one of the best all around firewood saws, it’ll pull a 20 or 24” bar in hardwoods all day long
I ordered a 28 today for the 2166 , don't get me wrong I love the 2166 and it will absolutely pull a 24 inch full comp chisel chain through sugar maple all day long day after day although it is kind of heavy for limbing . and I think it is an excellent saw , but if all I needed to do was make BTU for my stove the 2255 would be the most cost effective way to do this I could get enough wood to heat without needing the bigger saw I choose to get the bigger saw because I wanted one and have the trees I want to take down

firewood saw means different things to different people the 2166 is nearly twice the cost of the 2255. I can see where justifying the added cost could be hard for many people cutting to heat.

I guess I just took the question different.

I am a bit more saw geek than most any one I know around where I live even if I am no were near the level of saw geeks on this forum.

I like to have 2 saws and I wanted a bigger saw , so I have a 2255 and a 2166 I wouldn't really need the 2166 I cut firewood for 11 years without it and did about a hundred trees for the boy scouts, many trees for friends and relatives .

a good friend has taken over his families farm and I am helping him deal with quite a few 30+inch trees that are top damaged or root rot.

the 2166 is definitely a lot more saw and is great but I heated my house for 9 years with a 50cc saw ms-260 I have had the 2255 for 2 years and the 2166 less than a month

bucking 30 some inch rounds with the 2166 is very very nice.

where I live I hit 3 saw dealers in the area in the last 2 days only one of the 3 had a bar over 24 inches and he only had bars for Stihl , one of the other dealers asked where in the county I was in that many big trees . so for around here 24 is a big bar , 28 or bigger is plain unusual something typically only a professional tree service would have.
 
muddstopper

muddstopper

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I have always liked my husky 55's w/20in bars, for firewood. Cutting down 12in trees, I dont need anything bigger. When the wood starts stepping up in size, I have the 365 special with 20in bar. When wood starts hitting 24in dia, I like the 272 with 24in bar. Now if I have a lot of logs that needs bucking, I usually turn to the 272 and long bar so I dont have to bend over so much. I have a 28in bar but have never mounted it and I have a 55 with a 18in bar and .325 chain that I havent cranked in years. My buddy who recently has had a bout with melanoma cancer and chemo decided to get out of the stump grinding business and started selling off his tools. I was tempted to buy his 390, but didnt figure I really needed it. He did give me a couple of 24in bars and about 25-30 chains. I didnt count them, but have sharpened them enough to know there are a lot. He also gave me back my grinder I gave him so I wouldnt have to sharpen all those chains. I'll probably make 20in chains out of most of them, but at any rate, I should be fixed for chains for a long time.
 

NCPT

Love my saws
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Jan 31, 2018
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522
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NC
If you already have an 046, get a 50cc sized saw. I use my ms440 more than I thought I would for firewood. Recently got a husky 550xp and that thing is strong, nimble and will slice up some firewood, but I'm not gonna put it in some big oak trunk when I have a bigger saw with me.
 

vonb

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Dec 13, 2018
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Right Here
I only have experience with Stihl saws. I have a Ms 250 (16" bar), MS 290 (20"), and MS 362C (20"). The 290 is a pig while the 362 just absolutely rips. However, if all I'm cutting is firewood, the MS 250 gets the job done with authority with the little 16" bar. However, it can be temperamental starting. My opinion is that weight of the saw is everything and a 50cc saw is about perfect.

Thinking through various brands, I've had nothing but echo trimmers and if there saws are as good, buy with confidence. A saw that is grabbing my attention lately is the Makita (Dolmar) saws. They have some really great features for hundreds less than the Stihl pro saws and give up nothing.
 
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