Firewood Measuring Sticks

[Wood Doctor]

A quick note to CaseyForrest, et al. After you changed the file format on your Pics, I can now see all of them using Chrome. Thanks so much. I recently used one of the sticks when cutting rounds of mulberry for one of my friends to split at the work site with an 8-lb maul. His pickup truck has a 6' box. As he split, he loaded the logs on. When through, he had exactly four rows lying flat, packed like a sardine can. [4 x 18" = 72"]

He said, "Edwin, that measuring device works like a charm!"

 

[mga]

and models with metric graduations

now we have to cut metric sizes?

 

[Philbert]

now we have to cut metric sizes?

Only if they are metric trees ('African Rosewood', 'European Beech', 'Hungarian Oak', 'Canadian Spruce', 'Brazilian Cherry', 'Japanese Cedar', . . . )

Philbert

 

[Philbert]

Alignment

(picking up where I left off . . . ).

The posts above show how I assembled the measuring sticks, with a hole through the base magnet, using a shell casing as an external sleeve for the rod.

I changed my plan for the magnets with the threaded boss and the hollow rods. I purchased 4mm machine screws; screwed them into the bases with a little thread lock; cut their heads off; bored the inside of the hollow shafts slightly to fit; and assembled with JB Weld (lots of masking tape to keep things clean).



Since these rods (salvaged tent poles) already had a metal sleeve, I skipped the extra sleeve to tie things together, and just wrapped a little bit of aluminum duct sealing tape around the joint for aesthetics.



Today's graduating class! (all the same height, despite the smart phone photo).

Philbert

 

[jerrycmorrow]

I been using a retractible 25' tape measure and chalk for decades. Walk along the tree and mark. No muss, no fuss. Really cant see working around a rod on my saw or having to keep up with it. Got enough stuff to lug to the woods.
Bout five years ago i started buying children's sidewalk chalk. Cheap and bright. Some colors show better than others.
I also work alone; cut for myself only but do use ppe since near misses

 

[Philbert]

I been using a retractible 25' tape measure and chalk for decades.

Different strokes for different folks!

I would prefer to not lug around a 25' tape measure and chalk, or to take the extra steps to mark a log, then look for the marks. But I understand your preference. Some of it may depend on the size of wood that you are cutting: I cut up a lot of branches, tops, 'Zogger wood', etc, which is difficult to mark, and which can be cut with these rods in place. The marking method might work better on larger diameter logs, where chalk or lumber crayon marks are easier to see, and where you need the full length of the bar.

One of the commercial vendors for these types of magnetic sticks provides a small, steel clip to attach to your belt loop. The strong magnet holds pretty tight if you don't mind the rod hanging off your belt. When I cut, I usually designate a 'parking spot' for fuel, oil, any tools, water, coat, etc., and the marking stick can sit and talk to the scabbard, etc. But I did put Hi-Viz tape all over these, just in case it gets dropped.

Philbert

 

[Wood Doctor]

One thing you have to remember is that the measuring stick will not correct a chain or bar that pulls left or right through a big round. If the saw goes wacko on the way down a buck cut of a big log, you will not have uniform split lengths. Believe me, I have had to split a lot of trapezoid rounds and angular parallelograms in my years. They can flip right out of a log splitter.

 

[CaseyForrest]

A quick note to CaseyForrest, et al. After you changed the file format on your Pics, I can now see all of them using Chrome. Thanks so much. I recently used one of the sticks when cutting rounds of mulberry for one of my friends to split at the work site with an 8-lb maul. His pickup truck has a 6' box. As he split, he loaded the logs on. When through, he had exactly four rows lying flat, packed like a sardine can. [4 x 18" = 72"]

He said, "Edwin, that measuring device works like a charm!"

Must have been something with your browser. I didnt change any formats, just saved a couple to my computer and loaded them that way. They are still jpeg's

Glad it worked out, though!

 

[Wood Doctor]

Must have been something with your browser. I didn't change any formats, just saved a couple to my computer and loaded them that way. They are still jpeg's

Glad it worked out, though!

Computer to computer always seems to work better than phone to computer. Chrome is still the best browser I've ever used, but that may change. I usually use a third-party Pic site, such as Photobucket, but there are times when they drive me bonkers. I'd rather just upload Pic files from my PC, but some say that's too risky.

 

[turnkey4099]

One thing you have to remember is that the measuring stick will not correct a chain or bar that pulls left or right through a big round. If the saw goes wacko on the way down a buck cut of a big log, you will not have uniform split lengths. Believe me, I have had to split a lot of trapezoid rounds and angular parallelograms in my years. They can flip right out of a log splitter.

Or a crook in the log, limb, knot, etc. etc. Which is why I don't premark a log. Total waste of time as one has to make adjustments as they move down the log. Pre-marking will work IF the log is perfectly straight with no abnormalities - those don't happen where I have worked.

 

[Wood Doctor]

Or a crook in the log, limb, knot, etc. etc. Which is why I don't premark a log. Total waste of time as one has to make adjustments as they move down the log. Pre-marking will work IF the log is perfectly straight with no abnormalities - those don't happen where I have worked.

I just ran into one of these demons last weekend -- big mulberry tree. I've always said mulberry is a tree that knows not whether it's a tree or a bush. Some say its a first cousin to hedge, so I imagine we could add hedge (osage orange) to the list. But, hedge has thorns and big green fruit, so that relationship is suspect. Both drink water like fish in the spring.

I ended up with three truckloads, and the guy who dropped the tree shredded anything smaller than 3" dia. It's only redeeming feature is that it splits nicely when green and burns hot when dry, turning from yellow to burnt orange as it dries. Snap, crackle, and pop -- great for holiday campfires -- but, LOML won't let me bring it into the house. She loads the stove and hot mulberry often screams and barks when you open the loading door.

 

[hedge hog]

I just ran into one of these demons last weekend -- big mulberry tree. I've always said mulberry is a tree that knows not whether it's a tree or a bush. Some say its a first cousin to hedge, so I imagine we could add hedge (osage orange) to the list. But, hedge has thorns and big green fruit, so that relationship is suspect. Both drink water like fish in the spring.

I ended up with three truckloads, and the guy who dropped the tree shredded anything smaller than 3" dia. It's only redeeming feature is that it splits nicely when green and burns hot when dry, turning from yellow to burnt orange as it dries. Snap, crackle, and pop -- great for holiday campfires -- but, LOML won't let me bring it into the house. She loads the stove and hot mulberry often screams and barks when you open the loading door.

Yes they are related
Both have a male and female trees
If they have no competition they will bush and not much straight on either of them
Mull saves it snapping and popping for a big one


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[svk]

I don't know how I missed this thread earlier.

Thank you @Philbert for the stick, I will give it a try the next time I get out to cut wood.

 

[Philbert]

Couple of 'geeky' comments for DIY'ers . . .

First, to reiterate a few things:
- not everybody wants to use these;
- if you just want one, it is much easier to just buy one (at least 4 vendors are referenced in this thread);
- if you just want one, and have to buy all the materials, it is probably cheaper to just buy one;
- that said, some guys just like to do things themselves; or want a custom version; or have all the materials sitting around, and it's raining, and they are out of beer . . . .

The actual sticks could be from a variety of sources. We mentioned driveway markers, electric fence posts, old arrow shafts, tent poles, . . . I have started looking funny at old fishing poles, golf clubs, and TV antennas at garage sales. I prefer something non-metalic, in case of accidental contact with the saw, but soft aluminum may be OK.

The rare earth magnets ('neodymium') are the heart of these measuring sticks. They are super strong, and when placed in a metal cup, the magnetic force is focused to one side, dramatically increasing the holding power. So what you want to buy are 'neodymium cup magnet assemblies'. These are available on eBay, Amazon, etc., with a countersunk hole for a screw, or with a male threaded stud, or a female threaded post.

1 inch diameter cup magnets are rated around 40 pounds of holding force. A 1.25 inch diameter magnet jumps up to 70 pounds of holding force! The same magnets without the screw holes have higher holding power (very noticeable, but not rated by the vendors).



Here's the geeky part: thinner, more flexible sticks do not need as strong of a magnet, since they flex before they pry the magnet off of the guide bar. This might happen if the stick brushes against a limb while cutting branches. Thicker, stiffer sticks need a stronger magnet, since a smaller movement of the tip will apply leverage against the magnet.

Have fun. Be safe. And please post photos and comments of any you try in this thread.

Philbert

 

[Wood Doctor]

Couple of 'geeky' comments for DIY'ers . . .

First, to reiterate a few things:
- not everybody wants to use these;
- if you just want one, it is much easier to just buy one (at least 4 vendors are referenced in this thread);
- if you just want one, and have to buy all the materials, it is probably cheaper to just buy one;
- that said, some guys just like to do things themselves; or want a custom version; or have all the materials sitting around, and it's raining, and they are out of beer . . . .

The actual sticks could be from a variety of sources. We mentioned driveway markers, electric fence posts, old arrow shafts, tent poles, . . . I have started looking funny at old fishing poles, golf clubs, and TV antennas at garage sales. I prefer something non-metalic, in case of accidental contact with the saw, but soft aluminum may be OK.

The rare earth magnets ('neodymium') are the heart of these measuring sticks. They are super strong, and when placed in a metal cup, the magnetic force is focused to one side, dramatically increasing the holding power. So what you want to buy are 'neodymium cup magnet assemblies'. These are available on eBay, Amazon, etc., with a countersunk hole for a screw, or with a male threaded stud, or a female threaded post.

1 inch diameter cup magnets are rated around 40 pounds of holding force. A 1.25 inch diameter magnet jumps up to 70 pounds of holding force! The same magnets without the screw holes have higher holding power (very noticeable, but not rated by the vendors).

View attachment 572464

Here's the geeky part: thinner, more flexible sticks do not need as strong of a magnet, since they flex before they pry the magnet off of the guide bar. This might happen if the stick brushes against a limb while cutting branches. Thicker, stiffer sticks need a stronger magnet, since a smaller movement of the tip will apply leverage against the magnet.

Have fun. Be safe. And please post photos and comments of any you try in this thread.

Philbert

The female threaded post might work well with an ordinary metal rod that you can salvage from a campaign poster sign. Just thread one end to match the post hole threads and add a plastic cap on the other end. I think I have one in the garage waiting. I've also used this stock to make hot dog and marshmallow roasters for the fire pit.

Seems like the metal is a small issue and the heat on plastic from ported exhaust is a larger issue, but I'd have to try it to be sure. I believe I would use this primarily with good size stock that would eventually have to be split, not smaller branches, but that remains to be seen. It could become addictive.

 

[turnkey4099]

The female threaded post might work well with an ordinary metal rod that you can salvage from a campaign poster sign. Just thread one end to match the post hole threads and add a plastic cap on the other end. I think I have one in the garage waiting. I've also used this stock to make hot dog and marshmallow roasters for the fire pit.

Seems like the metal is a small issue and the heat on plastic from ported exhaust is a larger issue, but I'd have to try it to be sure. I believe I would use this primarily with good size stock that would eventually have to be split, not smaller branches, but that remains to be seen. It could become addictive.

 

[Philbert]

It could become addictive.

Well, they are certainly 'attractive'!

Philbert

 

[Philbert]

Update

1. I LOVE USING THESE STICKS

- Much easier and faster than marking with chalk, crayon, paint, etc., or rotating the saw 90° each time to measure with the guide bar.
- They work on straight logs, as well as bent branches (e.g. cutting 'tops' into stove wood).
- Very easy to change Right side to Left side, etc., depending on the wood being cut.
- I got really pretty, neat, firewood stacks (if that is something that you care about).

I discovered that I really like 14" wood better for my stove (fits easier and larger rounds are easier to split). One tote that I use to store / carry wood is only 11-1/2 inches wide, so I cut some shorter to fit width-wise instead of length-wise. Neither of these was a problem with the calibrated, hi-viz tape markings.

2. THEY WILL FLY!

- I tried to intentionally knock the magnetic sticks off the guide bar, by bumping them against the wood. Sticks with stiffer rods, or smaller magnets, released more easily than more flexible rods or stronger magnets (see earlier post).

- The sticks did not 'fall' off the guide bar when bumped, as much as they 'slid' or rolled to a new position - this could be against the moving chain, if not nestled securely between deep bucking dogs.

- A surprise was cutting wood in a sawbuck - the 'X' frames of the sawbuck frequently bumped the measuring sticks out of position. This was not as much an issue when bucking on the ground.

- Another user commented on similar movement of the stick while trying to cut up trees with the limbs still attached: probably not the best application for these devices.

My recommendation is to use the measuring sticks for marking only, in any situation where they could get knocked into the rotating chain. Pretty simple and easy to remove them from the bar, and place them in a rear pocket, when not needed.

3. Next Steps?

I thought that these measuring sticks were a gadget when received, but am now sold on them: simple, convenient, practical, consistent, . . .

I was impressed with the 2 commercial versions I tested. If I make a 'Gen 3 Philbert' version, they will use the 70-pound magnets, with a smooth base and threaded male stud, and more flexible rods.

Philbert

 

[zogger]

Smokin! Slick, really slick..I'll try it out soon on one of them "chain" saws...that little bitty magnet is no joke!

 

[Philbert]

.I'll try it out soon on one of them "chain" saws...

Zog, that Fiskars saw has a plastic handle; can't cut as well as one with a wooden handle . . . . (just sayin').

Look forward to your comments.

Philbert