firewood tractors
- Thread starter SPDRMNKY
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Sawyer Rob
Addicted to ArboristSite
I was going to let this go, but...
First off, I'm still rating tractors by the work they will do, that means PTO HP......NOT engine hp...
Second, I understand where the rear axel is and I also understand that some of the weight from the wheel weights are behind the axle as is some of the liquid ballast... SO, yes 3 point weight is better if you have no ballast on the tractors, but you do.
Third, it's a COMPACT tractor, NOT a FARM utility tractor. Farm tractors are built MUCH heavier, have thicker castings, heavier built transmissions and other drive line components... They can handle the abuse of being over ballasted and rough use, MUCH better. I have picts of compacts with the rear castings tore right off! All from rough use of the 3 point hitch, never seen a farm tractor with the azz tore off though...
Anyway, to each their own...
SR
OH_Varmntr
Burner of stored sunlight
PTO power means nothing when you're not using the PTO to do work...
So 3pt ballast is not better since I have wheel and tire ballast? Just trying to get a better understanding of what you're trying to say here.
So how would you personally determine the amount of 3pt or whatever type of ballast you think I need should be and where exactly it should go?
I'll remain open minded here.
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So 3pt ballast is not better since I have wheel and tire ballast? Just trying to get a better understanding of what you're trying to say here.
So how would you personally determine the amount of 3pt or whatever type of ballast you think I need should be and where exactly it should go?
I'll remain open minded here.
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Sawyer Rob
Addicted to ArboristSite
PTO rating is the true rating of the tractor's power, when the engine is sitting there roaring, it's doing what? Unless it's powering something like the tranny or PTO or remotes, it's just burning fuel. Everything that turns inside that tractor robs power, so the true power is after those loss' and PTO power is the true rating of how much work a tractor will do.
Sure 3 point ballast IS better for taking the load off the front end, but you can over ballast a tractor too, especially over load the front end. All I'm saying is, you already have ballast on your tractor and adding too much to a 3 point, then bouncing that weight around in the woods, really stress' the whole rockshaft and area it's attached to.. Also, it really loads the rear axle and bearings, wheel weights and tire liquid doesn't do that. When you are mowing, that mower and it's weight is on or near the ground, so the 3 point isn't carrying it all.
It's your tractor, you have to decide how you want to treat it, I'm just telling you what "I" would do if it was mine... You can consult your manual too, it will tell you what they recommend for front and rear axle loads.
Tractors almost always get abused, HD tractors will take it, lighter duty ones won't, or at least not near as long, and "that's" what I'm trying to say here...
SR
as sawyer rob said, best to consult your owners manual. proper tire inflation is a must for proper load handling. to much extra weight on the tractor will not give you the best operation of your tractor and could lead to component failure.
sunfish
Fish Head
Rob, I understand what you are saying and agree it's not good to 'over ballast'. But 3 pt counter weight is needed (even more so on these light weight tractors) when using a front end loader.
Any weight bolted to the rear rims, or liquid in the rear tires does nothing to 'counter' the FEL load. Yes it will help keep the rear on the ground, but it actually adds more weight to the front axle when a load is on the FEL. All that rear tire ballast is sitting on the ground, not hanging on the tractor.
When the loader is maxed and the tractor is trying to left the rear (with all the tire ballast weight) the weight of the whole rig is transferred to the front axle. I want the rear axle to carry most of the load, not the smaller front axle...
I had to rebuild the front axle on our old L3750DT after years of FEL work with no weight on the 3 pt hitch. Doin a lot of loader work with no 'counter weight' on the 3 pt will kill the front axle components, period!
sunfish
Fish Head
There are a bunch of photos in this thread and I've been enjoying them. I don't have any pics of mine at the moment...looky here.
this is the sixth page of my cool little tractor thread, and so far, there ain't one blame pic...just ya'll grunting at each other.
pics.
Sawyer Rob
Addicted to ArboristSite
And i'll bet you that ......Doin a lot of loader work with WITH 'counter weight' on the 3 pt" WILL kill the front axle components on these lighter duty tractors too, it just takes longer. It really depend on how much bouncing around you do with the front ended loaded.
Weighting the bejesus out of a tractor so you can MAX the loader out, kills them, the front axles just aren't made to be treated that way. Actually, neither is the back axle...
I'm really not disagreeing with you, I'm just saying that I see over loaded compacts quite regular, and any loader tractor that has weights and filled tires shouldn't have even more weight added. You are just asking for trouble!
IF you want to max your loader out all the time, AT LEAST start out with a FARM tractor instead of a compact tractor. I knew exactly what I was going to be using my new tractor for, so I bought a farm tractor. It's used for loader work nearly daily, and I load some big logs, big bales of hay, pick some big rocks,
ALL without any counter weight on the 3 point and the front end is still tight and works perfectly. I knew I'd be using this tractor to pick heavy loads, so I bought a tractor that has a good heavy front end AND rear end, then adding a high quality loader with an excellent loader mount!
BTW, if you think weighing the 3 point so heavy, that it takes any sizable amount of weight off the front end, isn't over loading the back of the tractor, then I have a bridge in NY, i'll sell you cheeeeeep!
SR
sunfish
Fish Head
Well, I knew better than to continue this. I agree with some of what you said, but not all... I'm done.
chiefs584ever
ArboristSite Operative
Bought a Mahindra 5035 this year and cannot believe how much easier it makes the firewood game. Use it for all kinds of tasks on the acreage.
Sent from my SCH-R950 using Tapatalk 2
Sent from my SCH-R950 using Tapatalk 2
outbackrider
ArboristSite Lurker
An oldie...but she's a worker '72 John Deere 310. First generation 310.
No counter weight needed....makes wood processing much easier!!!
No counter weight needed....makes wood processing much easier!!!
stratton
ArboristSite Member
avgv, where in norway is your homestead located.i love those pics. are the pics current???
stihlfanboy
ArboristSite Operative
Girlfriends grandpa stoped burning wood so I can use his kubota and take whatever I want off his 16 acurs. And I can use his ms250 If I want. Old man hauled up all that pin oak I cut with the 391 and said I could have it!
Are you asking me what size?
DanTheCanadian
Weekend Warrior
My old Allis with a big maple log. Hope I didn't over-stress any axles. 
Stick was 24" on the butt end.
Stick was 24" on the butt end.
Sawyer Rob
Addicted to ArboristSite
My old Allis with a big maple log. Hope I didn't over-stress any axles.
Stick was 24" on the butt end.
Yeaaa, I guess I should add a couple thousand pounds to the 3 point...
32" on the small end......well, the big end wasn't much bigger though. lol
SR
zogger
Tree Freak
I have a 90 horse big deutz here that I use, just rear wheel drive and a stout FEL. It won't go across tobacco spit on the ground, way unbalanced and loses rear end traction with any load on the bucket. Has to be hard and dry to operate that thing anywhere.
Whereas the 60 horse RWD deutz with the tote box on the back will do two foot deep mud.
Not much experience with 4wd tractors at all, but I would imagine they go better overall but still need to be balanced out front and rear for loads.
