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First Run After Full Rebuild.

Gaudaost

Gaudaost

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Sounds good but seems to cut a little slow - what are you cutting?
Thanks, it’s a combination of lots of things:

It’s dry Australian gum tree with the 20” bar buried to the end.

Brand new rings.

It’s a trunk crotch with lots of knots.

I didn’t put any pressure on it at all - just letting it cut.

it’s running rich because of the new rings

It’s new stihl chain and leaves a lot to be desired too in my opinion.

I’ll lower the depth gauges slightly and put in a little more hook and it’ll self feed and load the saw up nicer. This should help the saw clean up in the cut slightly too. I recon then it will be right in the sweet spot.

idle is around 2700-2800
WOT no load around 12800
Loaded in the cut around 10000

Here is another vid where the wood was a little smaller. Only by a few inches though.

 
Gaudaost

Gaudaost

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As they say in Wyoming: "You done good."
Tune is fine for first cuts. We will want to see videos of this saw after it breaks in, and after you put your own personal touches to the chain.
Kudos, Tom!
Very kind mate, thanks and absolutely, me too! It’s on the “to sharpen” side (right).

left side is sharp :p
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Pioneer

Pioneer

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Great videos of your butt sticking up in the air! LOL. Seriously though, you need to set up better for a video, I've been guilty of featuring my butt too much as well, I've learned to get in close to the saw with nothing obstructing the view. It also helps to get the wood up off the ground somewhere around waist level.
A good example of that would be this video.

m.youtube.com/watch?v=8SGCOxSGtdo

Btw, good work, the saw should really wake up once it's broken in properly. Give the narrow kerf Stihl PS chain a try, it wound up taking 40% off of my cutting times.
 
Pioneer

Pioneer

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Esean, the Stihl PS chain would be considered narrow kerf compared to the RS. Granted it's a low profile chain, but I found it can still be run on some normal 3/8 setups. I have used it on one of my saws for a summer with zero issues that had previously been running the Stihl RS 3/8, but as they say, "Your results may vary". The limiting factors are link strength and link width, it may not last too long on saws over 50 cc's, and maybe a bit narrow for some normal bars and wear a channel.
The 23rs pro has very similar kerf width to the PS, but has the advantage of the stronger drivelinks. It cuts a bit slower and a bit smoother than the PS.

I'm pretty much abandoned semi chisel chain, full chisel just cuts smoother and faster for me. I make an effort to not cut dirty wood, so I have no problems with the chains getting dull too quickly. Stihl 33 RS is my favorite for the larger saws.
 
Gaudaost

Gaudaost

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Hi chaps, I have hand filed the new Stihl chain now and adjusted the rakers. Here is the log I’ll be testing it out on.

My prediction is, with a chain that self feeds nicer it won’t 4 stroke as much in the cut and 8c cooler it will require a little more fuel anyway. I recon I’ll be bang on the money.
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RED-85-Z51

RED-85-Z51

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It’s what I have been recommended by every Aussi. The wood is very different here :)

For reference, our most common fire wood, “Jarrah” is harder than Hickory.

And some species of wood in Australia are over twice the hardness of Hickory.
Hickory and Jarrah are pretty close 1820 vs 1860 on the Janka scale. Oak is much lower at 1360. Id love to dip my bar into ironwood.

Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk
 
rogue60

rogue60

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Hi chaps, I have hand filed the new Stihl chain now and adjusted the rakers. Here is the log I’ll be testing it out on.

My prediction is, with a chain that self feeds nicer it won’t 4 stroke as much in the cut and 8c cooler it will require a little more fuel anyway. I recon I’ll be bang on the money.
View attachment 884524
View attachment 884523
To many overseas how to sharpen vids I think lol
Not how I'd sharpen for hardwood myself but you are only doing a few cuts in that clean soft looking block what is it? looks like Silky Oak.
 
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