Looks good. It does sound fine, should be a good runner. As far as the idle is concerned, you may try adjusting the idle screw, and or the low idle mix screw. Before doing too much of that, make sure the regular stuff is taken care of. Clean air-filter, clean fuel pick-up, good plug, fresh gas, etc. Then just run it. Chainsaws and all two-strokes tend to operate best when they are used frequently. I would avoid holding it at max revs with no load. It won't kill it (probably) but it isn't good for it.
First saw : Stihl 028 or husky 445?
- Thread starter gigizverka
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gigizverka
ArboristSite Lurker
Thank You!!! I was worried that it sounded strange on Idle, probably low Idle screw is of.. Haven't done any cutting yet, as you said I want to clean it good first..
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I think I may start a fight here but as long as the fins, air filter, clutch cover and bar are free of debris
It sounds a little choked up like it needs to be ran. Does it seem to want to idle any differently or die on one side or the other?
gigizverka
ArboristSite Lurker
If i run her a little it dies when I let go of the throttle will post a video. But as I said I think I need to adjust Idle, low and high
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gigizverka
ArboristSite Lurker
Well this happenshttp://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/5c8f4b44396f5/VID-20190318-WA0002.mp4
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Huskybill
Addicted to ArboristSite
I been a Husqvarna Guy most of my life. These saws need to be run wide open, or they choke up the spark arrestor gets clogged.
Funny once I asked a logger what he thought about Stihl chain saws. He runs a 162 husky at the time, he took my head off. He said his Stihl saws spent more time in the shop being repaired than in the forest cutting plus the parts were more expensive than husky parts were. He compared the muffler prices. He’s the one who told me I needed a 266 when I was running the 2100 for everything. When loggers talk I listen. There’s a wealth of info there willing to share to us Young cutters. I was young back then.
Funny once I asked a logger what he thought about Stihl chain saws. He runs a 162 husky at the time, he took my head off. He said his Stihl saws spent more time in the shop being repaired than in the forest cutting plus the parts were more expensive than husky parts were. He compared the muffler prices. He’s the one who told me I needed a 266 when I was running the 2100 for everything. When loggers talk I listen. There’s a wealth of info there willing to share to us Young cutters. I was young back then.
Which is fine but the OP is not comparing apples to apples saws. Maybe if it were between a ms250 and a husky 445 or something more comparable then you could have the old arguement of husqvarna vs stihl.
Diesel fuel is fine for a general purpose solvent/cleaner. Very likely to be be a carburetor adjustment issue, that being said you need to eliminate the obvious regular things. Particularly that the saw is breathing good. Be sure the air filter is clean, also the spark arresting screen in the muffler can get stuffed up carbon up pretty easily. Both are easy and you really should do that stuff before messing with the carb. I'm guessing (wild guess) the low idle is set too rich.
Generally you want to start with the LA (idle speed screw) and get it to idle slow enough so as not to engage the clutch. i.e. not fast enough to make the chain spin, a little jump here and there is fine, but generally speaking, when correctly adjusted the chain shouldn't run at idle.
Then you set the L, (low idle mixture screw) do this by increasing and decreasing the mixture (turn the screw in and out) to determine the range of the mixture where the saw will continue to idle. You generally want the low idle mixture near the middle of this range. So get the saw running, turn the L screw out until it dies, or starts to bog. Put it back where it was and restart the saw. Turn the screw in until it starts to bog and or die. You have now established the two extremes (lean and rich) you want to put the mixture near the middle of this range.
When you turn the mixture screws, do so in tiny increments. By tiny I mean on the order of 1/32 of a turn. 1/2 is huge, 1/4 turn, still big, 1/8th of a turn is getting there.
You should adjust the high idle under load, while not entirely necessary it is better. What you need to recognize is the sound of the engine as it starts to 'four-stroke'. You want enough fuel in the mix to power the saw while cutting, this amount will be greater than when not cutting. I adjust the H(High idle mix screw out until it starts to 'four-stroke' 'Burbble' and not 'scream' then I lean it out a touch. Hope that helps.
Generally you want to start with the LA (idle speed screw) and get it to idle slow enough so as not to engage the clutch. i.e. not fast enough to make the chain spin, a little jump here and there is fine, but generally speaking, when correctly adjusted the chain shouldn't run at idle.
Then you set the L, (low idle mixture screw) do this by increasing and decreasing the mixture (turn the screw in and out) to determine the range of the mixture where the saw will continue to idle. You generally want the low idle mixture near the middle of this range. So get the saw running, turn the L screw out until it dies, or starts to bog. Put it back where it was and restart the saw. Turn the screw in until it starts to bog and or die. You have now established the two extremes (lean and rich) you want to put the mixture near the middle of this range.
When you turn the mixture screws, do so in tiny increments. By tiny I mean on the order of 1/32 of a turn. 1/2 is huge, 1/4 turn, still big, 1/8th of a turn is getting there.
You should adjust the high idle under load, while not entirely necessary it is better. What you need to recognize is the sound of the engine as it starts to 'four-stroke'. You want enough fuel in the mix to power the saw while cutting, this amount will be greater than when not cutting. I adjust the H(High idle mix screw out until it starts to 'four-stroke' 'Burbble' and not 'scream' then I lean it out a touch. Hope that helps.
028. Enough said!
Derrick Sawyer
ArboristSite Guru
Agree the 028 is built more like a pro saw and the 445 is a consumer style clamshell they sell at Lowes here...agree with Trellos to check over the saw first before adjusting anything and use fresh fuel, i would use at last 89 octane and run 40:1 with a good semi or full syn 2-cycle oil. it sounds like its 4-stroking fine at wide open throttle so i wouldn't mess with high carb setting. I have an 028 super as well in my 'museum' of saws. I would turn the chainsaw off before checking the chain by hand though, even with the chainbrake on, just for habit, i've had some near misses myself. When you check and clean the air filter, put the choke on first so it closes the plate and less stuff can fall into the carb. IF you need to take the front muffler cover to check the exhaust screen and clean it, take a good look at the piston for any scoring.
gigizverka
ArboristSite Lurker
Well guys, I tried to remove muffler and clean the spark arrestor but without succes. Dont know what I have to do, air filter is super clean. And above all at the end I touched many times Idle and low Idle screw that at the end it wouldnt start. I feel a little dissapointed bit its normal as I dont know almost nothing about saws..
Any pointers would be great, I watched two YouTube videos on how to do this and it doesnt work at least for this old lady..
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Any pointers would be great, I watched two YouTube videos on how to do this and it doesnt work at least for this old lady..
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You are letting the saw warm up before you mess with it right? My 028 runs real rich and has poor throttle resposne for the first minute. I made the mistake of messing with it when I got it thinking it needed to be tuned and then it took me a while to get it to run and run correctly again.
gigizverka
ArboristSite Lurker
Probably it wasnt very warm, thats my first error damn..
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Not sure about the muffler. You need to remove the screws that hold it on. It's not a huge deal if you can't get that part. If it won't start after messing with the screws it may have flooded. Just give a few min, or if you got the adjustments way out of whack you can start over by setting the mixture screws about 1 and 1/4 turns out. When you turn them all way in be very gentle.
And yeah it's gotta be warmed up.
And yeah it's gotta be warmed up.
gigizverka
ArboristSite Lurker
Thanks, almost had it perfect but started cutting and it didnt have a lot of power so I went back to the shop and messed everything up. Tommorow is a new day tho. Thanks for the advice, it really helps!
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Every stihl I own is a pain to start because there's no primer bulb but I have a specific way of starting them and then they need to warm up. Once its warm you should be able to shut it off and it should fire right up as soon as you pull the cord. A lot of guys tune their saws for max power in the cut. If its to lean or rich you wont get max power. But rich is better than lean. Rich will give you less rpm lean will give you more. You want that happy medium where you make the safest power. My 028 is slightly rich but doesn't smoke. Better safe than sorry. There should be a guideline setting for your saw I would stick to that and once you get it started and warmed up try cutting. I can bury my 16 inch bar with no bogging and it will occasionally 4stroke in the cut because it's a bit rich. I also have modded my muffler.
The standard cold starting (priming) procedure for all stihl saw is as follows.
Set choke to full, switch in lowest position.
Pull starter rope with modest effort until you get ignition, the saw will pop, maybe run momentarily.
Set switch to 'run' two positions up.
Under ideal circumstances the saw should fire and idle with one or two pulls.
If it's very cold or the saw hasn't been run in a while then you may need the fast idle position in between choke and run. Some saws will only start on fast idle and need to warm up before they will idle smoothly.
Don't allow the saw to run on fast idle with the break on. I never let the saw run on fast idle for more than a few seconds.
Set choke to full, switch in lowest position.
Pull starter rope with modest effort until you get ignition, the saw will pop, maybe run momentarily.
Set switch to 'run' two positions up.
Under ideal circumstances the saw should fire and idle with one or two pulls.
If it's very cold or the saw hasn't been run in a while then you may need the fast idle position in between choke and run. Some saws will only start on fast idle and need to warm up before they will idle smoothly.
Don't allow the saw to run on fast idle with the break on. I never let the saw run on fast idle for more than a few seconds.
gigizverka
ArboristSite Lurker
Thanks!!! This one starts great, When I dont mess with it.. How did you modded the muffler?
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Removed as much of the baffle that I could and welded up the factory muffler exit hole. Then drilled a hole and welded a pipe on just above the chain cover. Dont make the exit hole to big or you will be sorry, it will be very loud. I try to make one chamber with a decent size exit hole. You dont have to get fancy or you can if you feel like it.
gigizverka
ArboristSite Lurker
Do you think that just by removing the baffle as much as I can it will do better? Not much of a welder here typing..
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