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Fiskars no longer holding an edge?

Discussion in 'Firewood, Heating and Wood Burning Equipment' started by SamT1, May 3, 2019.

  1. DSW

    DSW ArboristSite Guru

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    I didn't find any difference between kinda sharp and perfect edge so I stopped filing mine.
     
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  2. svk

    svk A little bit of everything

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    Mine is about 1/4” shorter than a new one and has an ever increasing curve on the leading edge.

    I primarily use my Husky S2800 but keep the Fiskars at the house for smaller jobs.

    BA6C16F7-AC6F-40EB-82C8-90D8F5D6AAF5.jpeg
     
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  3. svk

    svk A little bit of everything

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    It’s too bad CTYank doesn’t come around these parts anymore. He could tell us how good Fiskars are ;)
     
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  4. Mustang71

    Mustang71 Addicted to ArboristSite

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    That's y I made a splitting pad. I'm 5'6 so I need to split on the ground to get any swing out of it. I wanted something to protect the cutting edge from ground contact and also a flat surface to split on.
     
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  5. dancan

    dancan Spruce , The preferred wood of the Purgatory !

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    I split mainly on the ground

    [​IMG]

    Still splits fine .
     
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  6. Marshy

    Marshy 285 Killa

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    Doubtful, the plastic would melt if it got hot enough to alter hardness.
     
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  7. Marshy

    Marshy 285 Killa

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    There has been lots of comments about the edge over the years. Some people think it's not hardened because when you hit something hard it will chip. Some dont think it holds an edge well because they use softer steel.

    Best advice anyone can give you is keep it out of the dirt, use a short chopping block and keep an edge on it. It doesnt have to be super sharp, a flat file is enough to maintain an edge.

    It's possible the axe has worn off the non-stick coating on the cheeks. I never noticed a whole lot of difference once it wore off but other might be more sensitive to it. Someone sprays a dry film teflon lubricant on theirs to help.

    If you leave your axe out and the cheeks have a bunch of surface rust on it then that would explain the reduced efficiency, combined with a dull edge.
     
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  8. SamT1

    SamT1 ArboristSite Operative

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    Coating is gone off of it. I leave it out but it doesn’t sit long enough to rust. I’ll try some Teflon spray that’s a good idea.
    The wood I cut is hard enough you notice lots of things. I cut a tree the other day that was so hard the axe bounced half way back to my face. It was a 20” mesquite I had cut and left for a saw mill guy a couple months ago. It ended up being not quite big enough for what he needed and was bowed a little much for normal milling stuff so I cut it up for a bbq guy who wanted some stuff that’s was 2’ long and would burn slow and smoke a lot to attract customers.
     
  9. pauljoseph

    pauljoseph ArboristSite Lurker

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    I’ve noticed if it gets too dirty it can slow down, too. I’ve two x27 and the one I’ve had for a while still splits as good as the new one, just have to maintain it. The edge sharpens alright, its not an axe so I don’t really care if super sharp. I’ve got no use for my husky splitting axe, though....:rolleyes:
     
  10. Multifaceted

    Multifaceted Firewood Hoarder, Axe Junkie

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    I don't have a Fiskars though my main splitting axe somewhat maintains an edge, but nothing keen. I'll touch it up every so often if I hit a rock it eat too much dirt. I do; however, keep the cheeks clean and polished which seems to reduce drag and improves splitting efficiency.
     
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