Fiskars Super splitting axe review

[Northland]

After reading this post and watching Akkamaan's video I just ordered the Fiskars Super Splitter from an Ace EBay store.

Last year I cut down several very old yellow birch trees. The fibre was like meat and seems to run in every direction. Splitting those big old trees with my 6 and 8 lb mauls was time consuming, exhausting and frustrating. I didn't have that problem in years past while splitting the maple I normally burn. I borrowed an old gas powered splitter from a friend to take care of most of the them.

Before I buy a 3 pt splitter that will run off my tractor I wanted to try the Fiskars axe. I heat much of my home with a Vermont made Hearthstone soapstone woodstove and go through up to ten cords per year.

I use a Kubota B7800 30HP tractor with a bucket grapple along with slingchokers and now 100ft of Amsteel Blue 1/4" rope with snatch blocks to get my wood out of the forest. I use a Husky 365 to cut and buck my wood.

This week I am starting to cut down my dead maples. Beside being easy to split the maple burns much hotter.

I now use this method to minimize the picking up of the pieces of my splits. It-it really works well.

http://www.woodheat.org/firewood/splittingblocksandtires.htm

I am going to try Akkamann's bunjie cord/rope trick too

 

[AKKAMAAN]

After reading this post and watching Akkamaan's video I just ordered the Fiskars Super Splitter from an Ace EBay store.

Last year I cut down several very old yellow birch trees. The fibre was like meat and seems to run in every direction. Splitting those big old trees with my 6 and 8 lb mauls was time consuming, exhausting and frustrating. I didn't have that problem in years past while splitting the maple I normally burn. I borrowed an old gas powered splitter from a friend to take care of most of the them.

Before I buy a 3 pt splitter that will run off my tractor I wanted to try the Fiskars axe. I heat much of my home with a Vermont made Hearthstone soapstone woodstove and go through up to ten cords per year.

I use a Kubota B7800 30HP tractor with a bucket grapple along with slingchokers and now 100ft of Amsteel Blue 1/4" rope with snatch blocks to get my wood out of the forest. I use a Husky 365 to cut and buck my wood.

This week I am starting to cut down my dead maples. Beside being easy to split the maple burns much hotter.

I now use this method to minimize the picking up of the pieces of my splits. It-it really works well.

http://www.woodheat.org/firewood/splittingblocksandtires.htm

I am going to try Akkamann's bunjie cord/rope trick too

Thanks Northland, for the credit!
Yes, thats all i'm asking! Just try to wrap a bungy cord aroung your round, or bundle several smaller rounds, as much as fit on your chopping block. To save your legs and knees, make sure you hit on the "backside" of the round or bundle, chop while walking sideways around the chopping block, and I prommise you improve your safety.
Good Luck, and please post a video of your splitting with your new Fiskars.

Per A
AKKAMAAN, aw come on....

 

[KFC]

I had my doubts about the Fiskars axe, bought one six months ago and will never swing a heavy maul type axe again. Just keep them feet spread apart when swinging.

 

[KeyStep]

I bought this winter the Fiskar Super Splitting Axe at Menards as well and now I have three for everyone. I typically hand split over 30 full cords of hardwood a year. As far as I am concerned it has retired my other 6lb and 8lb mauls. I still use the 12Lb Monster maul occasionally or my 16 ton 3pt but this axe is a real breakthrough design and it has doubled my usual output. However, if you cannot swing it fast with accuracy you will not be that impressed. As a general rule use a maul that isn’t too heavy for you, swinging a heavy maul will wear you out. Speed compensates for mass so a splitting tool needs to match its power source. Make sure with this Fiskars Axe you wear safety shoes with steel toes as the speed of the axe can get pretty scary.

 

[AKKAMAAN]

Make sure with this Fiskars Axe you wear safety shoes with steel toes as the speed of the axe can get pretty scary.

Good call about the safety shoes!!

This AKKAMAAN technique prevents dangerous miss hits....See picture....and my video....

Wrap a bungy cord around a big round, that way it will not fall apart while splitting.
If you have smaller rounds, use the bungy cord around a bundle of them, split them all and carry them all toghether to the stack

Heavy big rounds can be split on the ground, other wise always use a chopping block for all splitting

Stay Safe, Safer, Safest

 

[blis]

just have to watch with that technique of yours that you dont beat the "throat" of the axe in to pulp...

And once again about that axe lenght, its good for even tall ppl but the big trick is that over there you keep the rounds on ground when splitting, here they are usually placed atop the stump of tree or we cut a lenght of wood (some 50cm or so) to place them on, that way theres no need for so long handles....

 

[KFC]

I noticed the Fiskars axe (all sizes) are cheaper on Amazon.com, they even have a three axe special.

 

[TreePointer]

First, let me state that I like my Fiskars SS axe and use it.

The handle length does create difficulty for taller folk. Yes, yes, I know about different swings and elevating rounds onto a block, but these safety solutions create ergonomic/form problems.

You want the momentum gained from the swing and wrist snap to blast the round and you don't want to be applying force with your body at the moment of impact. If your body is still applying force at impact, that is when you damage your joints (shoulder, elbows).

Elevating rounds to stop the arc of travel from passing the level of your lower legs/feet often eliminates good wrist snap (which gives extra power and saves joints). Also, you waste work energy in elevating rounds that otherwise could be tipped up on end and whacked on the ground.

Now, if you tip rounds on end to save work, the shorter axe creates more bad form. To make a greater arc of travel with the shorter handle, you must lean out over the round more with your torso/back. This is bad form and is bad for the back.

 

[Northland]

there you keep the rounds on ground when splitting, here they are usually placed atop the stump of tree or we cut a lenght of wood (some 50cm or so) to place them on, that way theres no need for so long handles....

Suomilaine, we always split our wood on a block but maybe that's because my mother and father came from Finland.

I would think without the block the ground would absorb too much of the energy of the axe.

Marko Koskenoja

 

[blis]

Suomilaine, we always split our wood on a block but maybe that's because my mother and father came from Finland.

I would think without the block the ground would absorb too much of the energy of the axe.

Marko Koskenoja

First, let me state that I like my Fiskars SS axe and use it.

The handle length does create difficulty for taller folk. Yes, yes, I know about different swings and elevating rounds onto a block, but these safety solutions create ergonomic/form problems.

You want the momentum gained from the swing and wrist snap to blast the round and you don't want to be applying force with your body at the moment of impact. If your body is still applying force at impact, that is when you damage your joints (shoulder, elbows).

Elevating rounds to stop the arc of travel from passing the level of your lower legs/feet often eliminates good wrist snap (which gives extra power and saves joints). Also, you waste work energy in elevating rounds that otherwise could be tipped up on end and whacked on the ground.

Now, if you tip rounds on end to save work, the shorter axe creates more bad form. To make a greater arc of travel with the shorter handle, you must lean out over the round more with your torso/back. This is bad form and is bad for the back.

Now, this is where we again get to different forms, for myself when splitting tough blocks i begin my swing with axe head behind my back, with axe head facing almost downwards, when the axe head gets close to hitting the block i twist my wrists a little and loosen my grip just a bit to prevent that impact to joints youre talking about, so, with my technique the handle lenght is perfect


Northland, so you're second generation fin? Nice to see you ppl still remember your roots over there, any of you still speak finnish?

 

[Techstuf]

If your body is still applying force at impact, that is when you damage your joints (shoulder, elbows).

Where were you a few days ago! I could have used that important reminder just before I got exuberant and tore my supraspinatus!


TS

 

[Vangellis]

I don't know if using the lighter Fiskars ax helped but....

Two years ago I started having bad pain in my left elbow. Wearing an elbow band and some medication helped and it eventually went away. Last year the same thing happened again, but in my right elbow. Same cures and result.
I did most of my splitting by hand with a maul, sledges and wedges. I'm not a big guy, so it's tough duty.
This past season I started to quarter the larger rounds with the chainsaw for the first time. I also picked up a Fiskars super splitter.
I believe I'm more productive than before, but also.....no problems with the elbow pain this year. Again, I'm not sure if it's because of the lighter tool, but some food for thought.

Kevin

 

[Northland]

Northland, so you're second generation fin? Nice to see you ppl still remember your roots over there, any of you still speak finnish?

Yes blis, my 3 brothers and sister all spoke Finnish but become less fluent as we grew older due to a lack of use. We still speak Finnish at family gatherings though. My parents came her from Forssa in 1950. We lived in a Finnish community and didn't speak a lot of English until we went to school.

There are many Finns in Northern Ontario and Northern Michigan.

 

[Northland]

Kevin

Thanks for the positive review and great photos Kevin

 

[nocdpc]

First Swings with the Fiskars

It is sharp and light. I think this axe is more efficient then a 8lb maul as you can achieve more axe speed, the axe is generally sharper then most, and the axe is lighter. I have to do more field work for a solid review but here is a show for you all on my first swings. I like the axe overall.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=80N9nojggOk

 

[SawTroll]

I love my Fiskars, the only complaint I have about it is I wish it had a 34" handle. I have had close calls with almost cutting my foot or shin on a missed swing, and its a bit scary. 28" is a bit short for someone over 6 feet with long arms. I also wish they made a bit heavier version of it to bust through tougher stuff, if there was a 6# version it would be unstoppable!

Good one. LOL

Hope you heal well Treepointer.

I got the Fiskars this spring and think it does real well. I'm a smaller guy so the lighter weight for me helps a lot. Plus I'm closer to the ground so the danger is less, and I put it up on a block. Once you get your swing down, it's the berries.

Kevin

I love them as well!

My older ones are more than 10 years old, no maintenanse except sharpening now and then.

A longer handle would be nice some times, but I usually put the wood to be split on a 24" or so block anyway, and then it is not a problem.

I also use steel-toed boots when splitting, based on experience...:jawdrop:

 

[vwboomer]

I always split on a round - usually about 16" off the ground. Partially because I split on my cement driveway or steel deck trailer. Even if I was on grass I would never go without a block. How long you think it's going to stay sharp diggin it into the ground?

 

[fourapples]

Rebuilt Chopper 1

With all the fuss about splitting mauls and axes I have rehandled and sharpened my old Chopper 1 splitting axe. I really like it as I can split rounds on the ground. The pivoting wedges keep it from passing thru the split at high speed which is safer. Problem is when springs break off, I remember this but they are cheap at the hardware store and I have not had any break off lately. I am over 6' so I chose not to get the Fiskars axe because I like to split rounds on the ground where they lay. Just my 2 bits.

 

[thombat4]

It is sharp and light. I think this axe is more efficient then a 8lb maul as you can achieve more axe speed, the axe is generally sharper then most, and the axe is lighter. I have to do more field work for a solid review but here is a show for you all on my first swings. I like the axe overall.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=80N9nojggOk

Nice splitting there pal Ever since I bought a Fiskars I haven't used my electric splitter at all. This is a lot more fun.

 

[nocdpc]

I always split on a round - usually about 16" off the ground. Partially because I split on my cement driveway or steel deck trailer. Even if I was on grass I would never go without a block. How long you think it's going to stay sharp diggin it into the ground?

The boy scout method taught us to split on the ground and at the base of the wood to be split put a halfcut piece of split wood for the axe to bury into and not the ground. This will help to not diginto the ground as well when using a axe of any kind for that matter.