Fiskars...

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Cool, you'll like it probably. Once you pick it up it's like swinging a whiffle ball bat, they weigh like nuthin'. They work by speed over force so read the round, nail the existing cracks, etc, and work on flicking that thing fast and accurate.

The factory teflon coating eventually wears off, so, what I have found is at home depot and most likely other places, they have spray cans of dry teflon lube made by pb blaster. Couple quick spritzes on it after sharpening works wonders. Took me around..hmm..two years, so around 8 cord to wear off the factory coating. In retrospect, i wish I had sprayed it from day one. Same stuff works on other axes and mauls, etc, keeps them from sticking in the wood.

dry teflon lube is on my shopping list now. WD40 seemed to help out a bit this morning for the hour of so that the mornings cool temps lasted.
 
well fokes i own a nice block of land in OZ and it use to be a saw mill back in the day an old steem powered saw mill the engine is still down the back all rusted out
now to the real point i found an old spliting axe head in the bush and it has almost the same design as the fiskar so some old timer came up with a similar design meany years ago still not as nice to use as the fiskar tho.
 
well fokes i own a nice block of land in OZ and it use to be a saw mill back in the day an old steem powered saw mill the engine is still down the back all rusted out
now to the real point i found an old spliting axe head in the bush and it has almost the same design as the fiskar so some old timer came up with a similar design meany years ago still not as nice to use as the fiskar tho.

Be nice to see a pic with them side by side.
 
i do not have a fisker iv only used my buddys so no side buy side sory i did say similar
20140723_054313.jpg
 
Ya, similar to the x25 and 27. The original supersplitter isn't flared at all it is straight wedge shaped.

I have yet to swing any of the new ones so can't say if they are better or worse or the same.

Anyway, nice looking old maul! Sharpen it up, looks like it will rock, plus drive wedges.
 
I was humming about the Fiskars. Didn't want to buy one to try as I have all the axes I need. Turned out a friend had a X27 maul. Gave it a shot. Not impressed. Found the handle to flex a lot. For a maul it don't power threw the wood. I found the hook on the handle bottom to hurt my pinky finger threw the gloves. Wouldn't hold a edge very long. I will stick with my Old steel heads with SCH40 pipe handles.
 
I used the X27 all last winter to split 12-18" rounds of oak, cherry, maple, locust for firewood. Worked great even compared to my truper maul and gransfors axe. And cheap too...
 
i do not have a fisker iv only used my buddys so no side buy side sory i did say similar
20140723_054313.jpg
I have one like that that I split wood with for my teen years, but bad overstrike habit doesn't agree with it very well after using cheap bunnings and others I got a x27 from Amazon... OH Wow, overstrike no problem vibration nup one or two hit in green gum mate and gets through knots that were unsplitable
 
I wish the X25/X27 was made of a more durable metal. On some larger dense rounds like red oak no matter how fast you swing it it just ends up getting itself stuck good in the wood. Wrestling it out for another 20 whacks on the same spot is one option.....

But the head of the X25/X27 works great as a splitting wedge once its stuck in the round good. 2 hits from a sledge and the wood is split. The only problem is that the hammer end of my Fiskars look like they've been.......well......whacked by sledgehammers alot.

I imagine a more durable metal would be heavier too....things I think would help splitting power.
 
I wish the X25/X27 was made of a more durable metal. On some larger dense rounds like red oak no matter how fast you swing it it just ends up getting itself stuck good in the wood. Wrestling it out for another 20 whacks on the same spot is one option.....

But the head of the X25/X27 works great as a splitting wedge once its stuck in the round good. 2 hits from a sledge and the wood is split. The only problem is that the hammer end of my Fiskars look like they've been.......well......whacked by sledgehammers alot.

I imagine a more durable metal would be heavier too....things I think would help splitting power.

I would read your instruction manual again, I dont think Fiskar suggests using the hammer side of the axe. My guess is because the brittle nature of the axe head it will chip and can cause injury and damage to the tool. Yikes.
 
I would read your instruction manual again, I dont think Fiskar suggests using the hammer side of the axe. My guess is because the brittle nature of the axe head it will chip and can cause injury and damage to the tool. Yikes.

Whats the fun in that? They might as well make a rounded hammer end if its not intended for use. And it came with an instruction manual?
 
Whats the fun in that? They might as well make a rounded hammer end if its not intended for use. And it came with an instruction manual?

I think it is on the carry handle thing, not to use the rear for striking or to be struck. Thing might splinter on you, high speed metal slivers going who knows where, or bust the whole axe.

If you have wood needs a sledge and wedge, well, different tools for different wood.

Now Fiskars makes a heavier maul with a striking head on the back, but it isn't for sale in the US. Has a replaceable composite striker, interesting design. Another one of those "I'd like to try it" axes/mauls.

http://www.amazon.de/Fiskars-122150-Spalthammer-SAFE-T-X39/dp/B004ARHEY4
 
I'm a full grown midget at 5'9 with boots on....and the X25 makes me nervous. I can't imagine anyone taller than me splitting wood unless they are on their knees. I was thinking of moving up to the X27 but in light of the "we gave you a hammer end but don't use it or you might die" instruction epiphany....I think I might give a Stihl Pro Spliting Axe a try. Their pro splitting maul is pretty sweet too. The hard part is actually finding one.
http://www.stihlusa.com/products/hand-tools/axes/prosplitaxe/
 
Yeah I'm going to have to ask them again next time I'm there. I think I got a new employee last time and they didn't seem to know Stihl made axes.
 
I think it is on the carry handle thing, not to use the rear for striking or to be struck. Thing might splinter on you, high speed metal slivers going who knows where, or bust the whole axe.

If you have wood needs a sledge and wedge, well, different tools for different wood.

Now Fiskars makes a heavier maul with a striking head on the back, but it isn't for sale in the US. Has a replaceable composite striker, interesting design. Another one of those "I'd like to try it" axes/mauls.

http://www.amazon.de/Fiskars-122150-Spalthammer-SAFE-T-X39/dp/B004ARHEY4

That is amazing. I wonder if it has the same warrante that the other axes have...
 
My friend has an x25 and he still hasn't figured out how to swing it the best way yet and glanced of the log this weekend and put a 3-4 inch slice through his leather work boots and through his sock and left a 1/4-1/2 nick in the top of his foot. He then proceeded to order himself the new rapid fire splitter from dr.
 
My friend has an x25 and he still hasn't figured out how to swing it the best way yet and glanced of the log this weekend and put a 3-4 inch slice through his leather work boots and through his sock and left a 1/4-1/2 nick in the top of his foot. He then proceeded to order himself the new rapid fire splitter from dr.


Did you ever show him about using an old tire to split in?
 
I'm a full grown midget at 5'9 with boots on....and the X25 makes me nervous. I can't imagine anyone taller than me splitting wood unless they are on their knees. I was thinking of moving up to the X27 but in light of the "we gave you a hammer end but don't use it or you might die" instruction epiphany....I think I might give a Stihl Pro Spliting Axe a try. Their pro splitting maul is pretty sweet too. The hard part is actually finding one.
http://www.stihlusa.com/products/hand-tools/axes/prosplitaxe/

Fiskars x25 and 27 are axes, not mauls. I don't think there are too many axe companies who say it is cool to smack steel wedges or beat on them with a sledgehammer. Even though the back is flat and square. Axes are just different than mauls, like trucks and cars are different, but similar. A plastic wedge I would guess is OK, but steel, nope, or beating on the back, nope, switch to a maul, sharpen it axe sharp.

Mauls are different, they are designed to smack other steel things or get smacked.

You have to compare like to like.

I use everything, fiskars axe, two different mauls, some generic cheapo and the husky wooden handled model, sledge, wedges, and...noodling. Depends on the wood which tool I grab.

If you made me choose just one of those tools, I'd take the fiskars axe over the husky wooden handled maul or the generic heavy one for sure. The mauls are just too heavy and jarring for me, ya, they can bust wood, but they bust me at the same time.
 
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