Found a used Super Split

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cat10ken

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I picked up a used Super Split yesterday with electric motor. It was listed on Craig's List for about 10 days before I called and I couldn't believe it was still available. Previous owner said he used it for only a year but he has a commercial firewood business and has purchased a processor. His employees were not into maintenance, I found 4 grease zerks that had never been greased, one tire was flat, the bearing on the underside of the rack was worn and flattened on one side so it wouldn't retract on its own, the rack had no grease, when a chip would get under the rack preventing return, it was driven back with a maul, deforming the face, the pinion shows excessive wear and the shroud over the flywheels was loose and vibrating. I found most of this out today when I went over it.
So I'm wondering what a new pinion would cost and the small roller bearing.
From all the glowing testimonials I've read about these machines I thought they would be more durable.
 
A little maintenance goes a long ways.
They are not like hydraulic splitters and require general looking after while in use, or at the end of the day.
SS now has a pretty good web site for ordering parts.
The lock nuts on the engagement rod should have play between them, so the handle floats between the two nuts, and not screwed down snug.
Depending on price, you probably have a pretty good find.
Keep his number, you may get a processor down the road.
 
They are very durable. I know of several machines in my town that look like they came out of world war 2, and are still commercially splitting every year. These machines are at least 35-40 years old. Most of the stuff you listed is owner neglect not machine durability. The bearing is a common item to need replacing. Many threads on that topic. What'd you pay?
 
The rack requires a bit of grease. Too much and it gets on the beam and collects crude. So a little often will help engagement and wear. It is trial and error, but soon you will be able to feel it in the engagement, or hear it as well. There is a sweet spot in the engine rpm for engagement as well. An hour meter is helpful and only 15-30 bucks.
I keep a wrench close by for slivers that jamb under the push plate. Loosen the six bolts on the carriage, clear brass wear plate, snug bolts, good to go. A two foot L-bar is good to for when the carriage jambs against a round. This is usually from side pressure if the cut is angled or the round is punky.
Oh, and keep your nose back, and not over the beam when splitting questionable stuff. Sometimes rounds ride up the wedge (vertically) and do a summersault coming back towards the engagement handle. It does it quickly when it happens. Quick enough that you will not have time to move.
Edit: You have been warned.:drinkingcoffee: Enjoy your new splitter.
Just saw your post. You did good!
 
Thanks for the tips.

I tried it today on a couple dozen pieces of elm and I see what you mean about it flipping them at you on occasion.

How much free play is needed on the engagement handle nuts; it sometimes grinds when lifting the handle?

I don't think I need an hour meter on my electric motor do I?
 
Meter. Guess not.
The vertical rod needs to self align without the handle interfering.
Under the bonnet (as the English say) is a bracket with a nut welded to it that guides the engagement rod. If the nuts above and below the handle are snug the angle of the rod changes as the handle is lifted and deflects the rod. I just recall seeing photos on AS of these being tight, and the assembly instructions suggest some play. I assume that is why they are lock nuts, or nylons.
If it was an engine driven unit I would say play with the rpm. Mine does not engage well at full throttle, rather 3k to 32 hundred. With a motor you don't have that option.
If the pinion is worn, perhaps you could turn it around if the wear is minimal and on one side of the splines.
If you remove the rack, simply disassemble the six bolts holding the lower bearings on the carriage.
I've broken the push plate down further and there is really no need too.
Edit: I should say mine is an HD. No idea how the other models are put together.
 
Sandhill: I'm not interested in a processor but in the corner of his shed I spotted a Kubota 4x4 tractor, 30 hp, that I'm going back to get next week. I can't pass up a deal.
It looks to me like the pinion gear has been turned already as there is belt wear on both flywheels, if it is possible to do it that way.
I'll check out the engagement handle tomorrow in the day light.
Thanks.
Is there a serial number on these machines? I couldn't find one. I measured the flywheels (reaching under the shroud) and came up with 19". How do you determine model #?
 
It is probably a J or HD. The larger one, the Special Edition, has a bigger wedge and gear reduction Honda so I doubt it is the larger one.
On the SuperSplit web site a pinion is $110.
Check out the web site. Lots of info.
What I read is that the lower bearing mounts for the push plate are different. The J requires one bearing per side, and the HD requires two bearings per side. Looks like the same bearing however. $17. ea.
He may have had a gas engine on it, and run the belt on the opposite side. Give the pinion a good look.
From the flywheel end, the engine (not motor) shaft, clutch and dual belts are on the left.
 
I wouldn't buy the processor nor the tractor from that guy. His staff are clueless monkeys that have yet to appreciate and hopefully will learn the hard way, their jobs are dependant upon the continued smooth running of the equipment they clearly abuse. There's no telling what damage they have done to the processor or tractor by the time the owner is selling them.

When you are ordering parts from SS, ask Paul or his son what they think about the rack return lift spring mounting position that woodmaxx use on their kinetic splitter. Essentially, the lift spring lands on the carriage and does not need a roller bearing running on the beam (that as you have found out can flat-spot if not given the most basic of due care). I wonder if the way woodmaxx do it means accelerated wear of the sacrificial wear plate between carriage and beam.
 
I checked the machine over some more today. It has 2 roller bearings on each side under the beam that all roll; Yea!
The 1-1/2 horse electric motor has the pulley on the left side, same as a gas engine, but only one belt, it would need a double pulley that it doesn't have. Does it call for two?
There is about a quarter inch side to side play in the pinion letting the flywheels rub on the "bonnet". I don't think this is normal. I was hoping with the electric I wouldn't have to put up with a lot of noise.
I think a call to Paul is in my near future.
 
I've run an electric motor on mine with just a 3" pulley on the motor and a single belt. Runs perfect just like that. I also have a gas engine with a single belt. If there is a reason for the dual belts I have yet to see the need. Not a lot of pressure or force put on either the motor or flywheels from the drive process.
 
It's been working fine; thanks for asking.
The carriage doesn't fully retract but a slight nudge gets it to return. I did replace the flattened bearing and keep the beam clean but it still doesn't go back by itself. Maybe I need a new spring?
I put a steerable front axle under it similar to Sandhill. Makes it easier to get in and out of the shed.
I did some tweaking on the plastic shroud to keep it from rubbing on the flywheels so it doesn't make that irritating noise any more.
I still split with my Fiskars and Speeco hydraulic because most of my firewood is stacked more than 300' from my nearest electric outlet. Maybe I should look into adding a gas engine so I could use it more.
 
I'm sure some of the guys on here would be interested in it if you decide you don't want it.
 

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