Frustrated with Stihl Chain!

[rd35]

I'll jump in here with something new.....and try not to get hit by one of the daggers flying back and forth here! If you are becoming passionate about getting your chains sharp....especially if you are getting into doing carving work.....then I would highly suggest you (or anybody interested in this subject) take some time to read up on how chains work. I am attaching the article that really got me started on doing saw chain work. If (as stated earlier) your cutters are filed until truly sharp and are on the correct angles.....and if your depth gauges are set correctly...then your chain will cut as it should. If it does not cut correctly....something is wrong. The other really big thing I did was to purchase myself a jewelers loupe (little tiny hand-held high power magnifying glass). Got mine on the inter-screen for about $3.00 shipped. That little glass has taught me more about my own sharpening mistakes than anybody else ever could....because I could actually see what I was doing wrong and correct for it. If you start doing lots of carving and need to do a lot of sharpening.....eventually you will likely want to get yourself a good grinder. Much more precise and a good bit faster than hand filing (for me anyway).

 

[c5rulz]

@rd35 Great link of a good factual how to on chains.

 

[HarleyT]

I think the fight was over the first time one uses a file on a chain.

The profile of the round file doesn't exactly mimic the profile that the original "grind" of the chain, so it will take some work to get the chain into the mood.

To insure that it goes correctly, one has to be carefull on not putting incorrect downward, or upward pressure,
on the file, so that the actual cutting edge gets the correct angle.

 

[Kostas]

I think the fight was over the first time one uses a file on a chain.

The profile of the round file doesn't exactly mimic the profile that the original "grind" of the chain, so it will take some work to get the chain into the mood.

To insure that it goes correctly, one has to be carefull on not putting incorrect downward, or upward pressure,
on the file, so that the actual cutting edge gets the correct angle.

I never touch a new chain because my sharpening skills are zero.Guys who sharpen a new chain are masters and they instist that after they sharpen a new chain,it cuts even faster.

rd35 thank you for the guide,it says incredible things inside about how a chain works.

 

[Philbert]

I always have to double check before I quote @HarleyT, but sometimes he gives it straight . . .

Ignore that video.

That guy has taken a simplified sharpening device and spent 12 minutes to show you how he is using it wrong. His next video concerns his navel lint . . .

I recently used the Stihl 2 in 1's. They have great reviews, but I wasn't too impressed with them. Anyone here try the husky rollers or Grandberg file n joint?

https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/granberg-file-n-joint-revisited.193630/

You need to look at the cutter, and decide what you want to achieve.....
Then achieve it......

^ This^.

The file does not sharpen the chain.

The file guide does not sharpen the chain.

A grinder does not sharpen the chain.

YOU sharpen the chain, using some of these tools or devices, but if you do not know what you are trying to achieve, or what the 'finished' cutter should look like, you have limited chances for success.


If you understand what a sharp cutter looks like, you may be able to use a variety of tools to get that, although, as a practical matter, people generally have preferences or develop proficiency with one method or tool. Filing guides help maintain consistency, in my opinion, but pick one and learn how to use it.

Philbert

 

[Philbert]

Here is a basic sharpening video:


(starting around 21:53 until about 29:12)

Philbert

 

[Ted Jenkins]

This^.

The file does not sharpen the chain.

The file guide does not sharpen the chain.

A grinder does not sharpen the chain.

YOU sharpen the chain, using some of these tools or devices, but if you do not know what you are trying to achieve, or what the 'finished' cutter should look like, you have limited chances for success.

View attachment 718414
If you understand what a sharp cutter looks like, you may be able to use a variety of tools to get that, although, as a practical matter, people generally have preferences or develop proficiency with one method or tool. Filing guides help maintain consistency, in my opinion, but pick one and learn how to use it.

Philbert[/QUOTE]

This is very true. I have sharpened countless chains with and with out grinders over many years. Five years ago I got a brand new saw with some extra chain. The previous saw just like it cut fine but they sent some chisel bit chain. After a few hours cutting with the saw I was dissatisfied with the performance so decided rakers are way too high. After my adjustments I finally decided well I went a little too far on my adjustments as it shook so bad you could hardly hang on to it. My point is after many years of use you still have to learn what works well and be ready to make adjustments to the sharpen program to make it near perfect. Whether you use a grinder or not it takes time skill patience and practice to have a flawless program. And you need to know what your aim is. I fine tune a chain for the current conditions. Thanks

 

[trains]

I recently used the Stihl 2 in 1's. They have great reviews, but I wasn't too impressed with them. Anyone here try the husky rollers or Grandberg file n joint?

I use the husky roller guide on my carlton and husq chains, great tool, and very good for learning muscle memory to keep the file straight as you pass. Easy to see file angle, keeps the chain captive to the rollers, so no chain rock so you get a consistent pass/ wipe of the file.
Also use and like the granberg file n joint, great for fixing up chains that have been poorly sharpened, or rocked, and you want everything back the same, also good for muscle memory.

the Stihl FG2 is also an excellent guide, tho pricey, and not readily available in the US.