FYI - Northern Chainsaw Sharpener

[w8ye]

"Personal Grinder" was referring to the grinder that you own.

Here is a parts breakdown of a Tecomec FL-136 Italian grinder that is similar to the Northern Tools grinder from which the NT grinder is a Chinese copy.

http://sharpchain.com/shop/manuals/parts_FL136.pdf

Here is the owner's manual for the Tecomec FL136 (Jolly) grinder that is much like the Northern Tools grinder

http://sharpchain.com/shop/manuals/operator_FL136jolly.pdf

The Northern Tools grinder is a reasonable grinder for the home owner that has some mechanical machinery experience. It is just rough around the edges.

 

[whitedogone]

Here's my contribution:

 

[jar944]

More to come, but here is a teaser.

 

[Philbert]

Took out the 'squish' or just the base gasket . . .?

Philbert

 

[jar944]

Took out the 'squish' or just the base gasket . . .?

Philbert

The pic was from cleaning up the casting for the chain vise swivel. I still need to bore the base plate and turn a bushing for them.

I forgot to take any pics but I also machined new and have since installed bushings for the head pivot. There was some sloppy machining in the casting. The ID of bored holes for the bushings were .010" different.

I'm going to replace the clamping rails as well with some hardened steel the original are slightly bent and have way to much flex (IMHO)

The other thing i noticed was that there is a surprising amount of flex in the castings themselves, or at least more than I expected.

 

[coloradotrout]

Modifications Summary -- Links take you to posts.

(If the link does not take you right to the post, trying pressing enter or reloading the page that is in the new tab/window).

<table borders="1"><tr><td>Description</td><td>Page</td><td>Post #</td><td>Value</td><td>Click Here</td></tr>
<tr><td>Vice shim - without this I could not get even close to consistent cutter length</td><td>13</td><td>187</td><td>Huge</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-13.htm#post555793" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>Vice washer - if you grind a lot of chains and want to preserve the moving aluminum parts better</td><td>13</td><td>187</td><td>Low</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-13.htm#post555793" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>Light spring on the chain stop to hold it down</td><td>13</td><td>188</td><td>Med</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-13.htm#post555795" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>File down a tab on the casting on the motor mount right above the bolt hole. </td><td>13</td><td>187</td><td>High</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-13.htm#post555793" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>File down the washer and rounded casting on the bottom side of the vise casting (more important if you use the 10 degree tilt)</td><td>13</td><td>188</td><td>High</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-13.htm#post555795" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>Take some play out of the chain stop</td><td>32</td><td>480, 489, 492, 497</td><td>Med</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-32.htm#post622415" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>File down the casting of the motor arm bracket that joins the base. There are 4 nibs around the pivot pin.</td><td>47</td><td>697</td><td>High</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-47.htm#post1538191" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>Add the motor arm swing adjustment bolt (mine has the hole tapped, but no bolt). This just keeps the motor from swinging so far up, but since it's off to one side, it seems it would tend to apply some twist to the already loose motor pivot pin, some suggest to just use a bungee type cord.</td><td>41</td><td>615, 679</td><td>Low</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-41.htm#post876466" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>Tighten up the chain guide, file/smooth while it's apart</td><td>47</td><td>697</td><td>Med</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-47.htm#post1538191" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>File down the rounded casting on the bottom side of the vise casting (more important if you use the 10 degree tilt)</td><td>47</td><td>697</td><td>Med</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-47.htm#post1538191" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>Take out the play in the motor piviot pin/bushing/casting -- anyone done this?</td><td></td><td></td><td>Med</td><td><a href="" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>Mark custom/accurate angles with Sharpie</td><td>41</td><td>615</td><td>Med</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-41.htm#post876466" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>Add flat washers underneath the cupped washer to improve the clamping force.</td><td>47</td><td>697</td><td>Med</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-47.htm#post1538191" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>Use hot glue to fix the vise shims, adjustable chain rail spacers and a chain stop modification (that would be nice to have a pic of).</td><td>47</td><td>692</td><td>Med</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-47.htm#post1486595" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>Another example of cleaning up the base, albeit on the Poulan version</td><td></td><td>728, 741</td><td>High</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-49.htm#post1956563" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>Use a magnet to catch grinding dust</td><td>53</td><td>790</td><td>Low</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-53.htm#post3569226" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>Swivel base and chain stop info</td><td></td><td></td><td>High</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/40844.htm#post541928" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>My experience firming up the chain stop</td><td></td><td>810</td><td>Med</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-21.htm#post4242422" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>Guide rail mods</td><td></td><td>807</td><td>Med</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-21.htm#post4241125" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
</table>

Anyone know how I clean this up? HTML does not seem to display any more? Been years since I posted this.

 

[coloradotrout]

I guess it's been 2 years since I was here. My old HTML table is not displaying anymore :-( I ran across a video that has made a huge improvement. Here is one video.


This works brilliant on my Northern Tool grinder. I had to use a corded electric drill to spin the grinder up fast enough to get it to spin in the opposite direction when I pressed the power ON button.

So 3 mods or usage procedures:

Use a dial caliper to get the cutter on both sides nearly equal size. When you rotate the chain around from 30 degrees right to 30 degrees left that cutter stop "flipper" just is not exact. Reset that flipper with a dial caliper to get you closer so the cutters are nearly equal in length. I shoot for .010 or so. I have some play in my grinder arm pivot so that's about as good as I can get.

Spin the grinder with a corded drill to spin the wheel in the opposite direction such that you are cutting into the cutting edge of the tooth (see video). The counter clockwise direction of the grinder is fine for the cutter when you have the chain rotated 30 degrees counter clockwise (2 o'clock and 8 o'clock position) But when you rotate the chain 30 degrees clockwise (4 o'clock and 10 o'clock), now the grinder will cut away from the edge of the tooth. That leaves a burr. Spin the grinder up with an electric drill and you now are cutting both cutters in the same way.

File off the burr on the top of the cutter. I just use a file and make 1-2 light passes. I see in this person's video he commented he has changed to 55 degrees on the motor tilt from 60 degrees also.

 

[Philbert]

Got this one off of local Craig'sList today, pretty cheap, so now I am 'in the club'. It's a clone, made in China, but I don't see any brand on the machine or in the owner's manual. I assume that there are differences between the different manufacturers of these, and that changes have been made over time. This one reportedly sat for many years.



Partially disassembled it, cleaned it, made a few minor repairs. Have to make a base for it and try it out!



Philbert

 

[Philbert]

Disassembled my new-to-me grinder; cleaned and inspected it; replaced a bent bolt; repaired a damaged knob; added some washers; replaced the hex screw that holds the center guard in place with a wing nut (so that I will actually use it); added paper wheel blotters (things on the sides) to the grinding wheels; added some foil tape to reduce grinding dust build up; joined the 2 hex keys so that they are less likely to lose them; made a wood block to reinforce the base (had a small crack); made a wood base for mounting; . . . Such a deal! In fairness, I would futz with a new grinder as well.



Quality differences between this on and my Oregon models becomes more apparent as I work on it. Also, don't know where I would go for parts, aside from hardware store bolts, or things that are identical to the Oregon / Tecomec models.

Noticed a few interesting design differences - not sure if a lot of these clone grinders have them, or how much they vary. First is a clip on the back (blue arrow) that keeps the grinder head from fully raising. In the 511A thread, there were a lot of comments on ways to limit this movement for efficiency.
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/511a-grinder-improvements-tweaks.197073/



The vise on this model only rotated to approximately 30° Left and Right. My other grinders allow the vise to rotate 360°. Some people might want to grind at 35. Full rotation is nice for storage (moves locking handle out of the way). Noticed these 2 , raised posts under the vise base, and 5 detent positions (ball bearing and spring) that I do not recall seeing on other grinders. Anyone else? Thinking of cutting these posts off with a Dremel wheel to get the full rotation. Hope that the vise is held secure with the hand wheel!



Philbert

 

[old guy]

I like that clip on the back of my yellow one to keep it from raising so high.

 

[Philbert]

I like that clip on the back of my yellow one to keep it from raising so high.

I have boot lace and a cord lock on my Oregon grinder to keep the head from rising too far!

Philbert

 

[old guy]

I have boot lace and a cord lock on my Oregon grinder to keep the head from rising too far!

Philbert

Yeah, I put cables on both of mine

 

[Philbert]

Introduced those little tabs (yellow arrows) to Mr. Dremel (and removed the ball bearing and spring); now the vise rotates freely 360°. The chain positioning dog is pretty bent up; will probably try to straighten it or make a new one, along with a better spring.

Philbert

 

[heimannm]

Does anyone have a "no longer working" grinder with a good spring in it? The spring in my no-name unit broke this week.



Mark

 

[Philbert]

Pics of the broken spring? Width, diameter (I.D., O.D., etc. )?
They might not all be the same!

Philbert

 

[heimannm]

.1562" wire diameter, 6.2 coils, .870" O.D. .540" I.D., RH wound





Mark

 

[Urbicide]

Does anyone have a "no longer working" grinder with a good spring in it? The spring in my no-name unit broke this week.

View attachment 935220

Mark

Mark, if you can 't locate a suitable donor, you might check out Oregon's bench grinder replacement parts listings. They have several different part #'s showing for their various models. Hard to tell by looking at the tiny line drawings for sure, but the replacement spring for the 511A grinder looks promising. Part #35589 Spring, Arm Return. My grinders are all several states away from me in storage. Northern Tool may have a replacement spring for the generic grinder that this thread started over a hundred years ago, but that is just a wag on my part.

 

[heimannm]

Thanks for the reply.

I posted a similar message in a couple of Philbert's grinder threads and someone already pointed me at a suitable replacement. I have a spring on order now.


Mark