Garage Sale Husqvarna 350

[Gus_Mahn]

I just bought 2 saws at a garage sale. I paid $40 for a Poulan Woodshark which seems to have low compression (no start) but looks good and also got a Husqvarna 350 as part of the package. I'm guessing the Poulan could use at least rings, but probably I'll just try to get $10-$15 out of it to cheapen the Husqvarna. The Husqvarna starts after replacing the missing side cover, but runs very lean. Obviously unmetered air is finding its way into the engine. It does still have the plastic clamp manifold boot. Is worth splitting the case and replacing the crank seals while the cylinder is off? I know the 350 gets modded some. Would it be OK to skip the base gasket and three-bond the base gasket to pick up a little compression? I see porting mentioned but never see details such as port timing. Any other cheap and easy mods, links? Where's a good source to buy parts for it? What year is the saw? Thank you

 

[Philbert]

Welcome to A.S.!

I could be wrong, but I don't think that that saw has a case to split. I think that it is a clamshell design, as I recall. Great saws if you can get it running good.

Philbert

 

[Gus_Mahn]

Welcome to A.S.!

I could be wrong, but I don't think that that saw has a case to split. I think that it is a clamshell design, as I recall. Great saws if you can get it running good.

Philbert

You're correct. I'm not much of a saw guy. There's still a split line that leaks sometimes.

 

[Wood Doctor]

For the 350, try just opening the hi-speed carb setscrew a quarter turn, assuming it isn't blocked by a plastic limiter. I hate those limiters. if it still has good compression, there is little reason to replace the top end.

 

[sean donato]

It's not a clam shell, its it's own animal. The lower part of the crankcase is cast into the plastic body. There's an adapter plate that bolts down to the plastic, clamping the crank bearings and seals in place. Then a normal top end attaches to that. I have one sitting that I swapped a ne 346xp top end on. Was thinking a light weight saw for my dad, then he bought his battery saw. They are relitivly easy to work on, just need to be aware not to get sealer in the crank case of/when you seal it up. For what they are they take a heck of a beating and seem to last quite a long wile. I cant recall off the top of my head if you can just ditch the base gasket, but I think it's generally safe. I've never bothered to port the stock top end on one either.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

What Sean said X2.
You can fluff about trying to gain 346 like operation out of a 350- or you could just be honest and say that it is a heck of a saw for the CC rating it slots into and the work it was designed to do in pretty much factory stock form.
You can delete gaskets and check the riser block for distortion. If you are going to pull it down to the crank- then seal replacement is a wise idea, but perhaps first ascertain where the air leak is before replacing suspected parts only to cook the top end.
You can do a light muffler mod to help it breathe a bit better- certainly buy and fit a 346 front muffler support bracket.
You can do a bit more with the 45mm ones like swap pistons for domed 353 types, or the piston for a McCulloch model (Titan?).
Just get your leaking and tuning sorted and run it for the good saw it is- if you want 346 performance- go find a 346, if you want 60cc power- go find a 60cc saw. The 350 stock (ish) running a 14-18" B&C .325 combo is a pretty good outfit for a medium small saw.

Oh and if you remove the front handle, there should be a black factory plate with year of manufacture etc on it- should be located below the AV mount and above the two lower handle screws.

 

[Gus_Mahn]

For the 350, try just opening the hi-speed carb setscrew a quarter turn, assuming it isn't blocked by a plastic limiter. I hate those limiters. if it still has good compression, there is little reason to replace the top end.

I turned the high speed out until the spring was loose. It was still lean. The cylinder has to come off to change the problem prone carb boot and clamp, but I wasn't planning on changing much else unless warranted.

 

[sean donato]

Before you assume it's the clamp you really need to pressure test it and figure out if it's the clamp or not. Its could be the seals, the adapter plate may not be flat, could be the carb boot itself. Mind you im not saying dont replace the plastic clamp, but they didnt all leak. At any rate only one way to find out. Pressure test it

 

[svk]

FWIW the 350 I was given a few years back was leaking all around the base gasket as 3 of the 4 cylinder bolts are loose.

Check out the saw and make sure everything is tight. Then you might want to do a pressure/vacuum test. If everything checks out the it’s probably a carb problem.

 

[sean donato]

Those bolts are easy to strip, too.

 

[9050lx]

Just take it down to the plastic base and seal it back up with threebond and a new metal intake clamp.delete base gasket and open the muffler.Seals are pretty tough I think but not expensive aftermarket.Not worth the trouble to not do these things as it will keep you out of the saw later.2 hrs tops to completely break it down and put back together.They run well, 44 or 45 mm cylinders. My dished 45mm piston, converted 345 blows about 125 psi without base gasket and reused piston/rings, pulls a 3/8 18 inch bar surprisingly well.Its one of my beater saws.And one of my favorites because it runs reliably.

 

[9050lx]

Make that 135 PSI cold on the above mentioned saw with the dished piston (new white valve core).