• Please be aware that we have recently gotten a wave of users that, when researched, are found to be from Nigeria. They are trying to sell products and asking to be paid through Zelle or Venmo leaving users with no recourse if they don't ship the product. If you suspect this activity please contact admin and we will research their information to verify their location.

ArboristSite.com Sponsors
Peak Industries


General info on Bars, cutting, and normal wear and tear??

JFalconian

JFalconian

New Member
Joined
May 14, 2020
Messages
1
Age
38
Location
Louisiana
I recently purchased a Stihl MS 180c.
Can I add a bigger gauge bar as well as a longer bar?
Also is in necessary for longevity to only use non ethanol gas?
When I place the saw on sturdy ground and push the handle down while using my other hand should the bar give a tad up and down when I apply a good bit of pressure?
Lastly, once I score the tree enough to get the teeth(dogs) in the tree should I put a lot of pressure on the handle to force the top downward. Or should I just use a little pressure and let the saw do the work?
A friend of mine has told me (shown me) to use a lot of pressure when cutting logs on a already downed tree. He also has said to run the saw full power the majority of time bc if I don’t the top end of the motor will need rebuilding sooner if I don’t?
I’m in the Deep South and cut mostly Hard woods ( Oaks) and Pine trees.
Thanks for any input.
 
The Lorax

The Lorax

ArboristSite Operative
Joined
Dec 17, 2007
Messages
492
Location
SW Ireland
Its a small CC saw you can’t force it through the wood, you need to let the saw pull itself through. It will cut as long as the chain is sharp, it’s critical on these small saws to have a razor sharp chain or you will be putting it under a lot of stress.
14” is about the max these will run.
Make sure it’s oiling the chain correctly and invest in a few spare chains, keep these sharpened and change them regularly during long sessions. If you are cutting hardwoods regularly I would suggest getting a bigger saw 50cc or 60cc would be a better choice long term.
The MS180 are a good little saw for what they are but for prolonged hardwood cutting they would not be my first choice.
 

ATH

Addicted to ArboristSite
Joined
Nov 18, 2006
Messages
3,969
Location
Ohio
Website
www.AdvancedTreeHealth.com
If someone is using their own force to push a saw through wood, they are likely used to running dull chains...

If you change the gauge of chain, you need to make sure the chain, bar and SPROCKET all match.

Non-ethanol gas probably not necessary, but cheap insurance. Good quality oil is more important. Stihl is good, but some don't like the smell. Red Armor is good. I use Amsoil Saber...

Yes on running it on full throttle. I was taught chainsaw engines really should have 2 speeds: idle and full throttle. Not that there is never a time to just give it a little squeeze...but that should not be the norm.
 
Husky Man

Husky Man

Addicted to ArboristSite
Joined
Sep 28, 2017
Messages
2,759
Location
Mt Hood, Oregon
Changing GAUGE, shouldn’t matter for the SPROCKET, the Chain and Bar do need to match in Gauge though

With Chain PITCH, it is IMPORTANT that the Sprocket matches your Chain, this is True for Both the Drive Sprocket, and the Nose Sprocket on the Bar, if your Bar has a Sprocket Nose

Doug :cheers:
 
Top