All other things being equal, how does Granberg compare to semi chisel skip tooth @ 10° (speed, efficiency, finish, etc). I'm looking to take a bit of load off my 390XP when milling with a 36" bar & not sure which to try. Cheers.
Granberg vs Skip
- Thread starter J D
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csmillingnoob
ArboristSite Operative
I don't know about Granberg but there was a noticeable improvement when I changed from regular chain to skip on my 390. Much less strain - I guess because of chip clearance. 390 likes the 36' chain now.
How did the finish compare between the two? Cheers
csmillingnoob
ArboristSite Operative
Assembler
ArboristSite Operative
Can one tell how much rocking there is of the teeth by looking at the wear of the link straps?
I thing he means rocking the saw itself back and forth , rather than the teeth.
Assembler
ArboristSite Operative
Just looking at what others have to say about wear of the chain.
csmillingnoob
ArboristSite Operative
Yes, I meant rocking the saw back and forth when it is not cutting well - not rocking of the chain in the bar; which should not happen with a relatively tight chain and an undamaged bar
I have had the tail end of the bar get "hammered" & damaged a bit by the chain.
I tracked that to not wedging my wood often enough, and often not tightening the chain enough.
One of my saws has to be pulled out a bit from the mill to tighten the chain, and I find I hate doing it when I probably should, so it only gets tightened between cuts.
Most times this is fine, but with a new chain it can be an issue sometimes.
I haven't ruined a bar, or chain this way yet, but it is noticeable when this happens & done cumulatively will certainly make for an expensive lesson.
I tracked that to not wedging my wood often enough, and often not tightening the chain enough.
One of my saws has to be pulled out a bit from the mill to tighten the chain, and I find I hate doing it when I probably should, so it only gets tightened between cuts.
Most times this is fine, but with a new chain it can be an issue sometimes.
I haven't ruined a bar, or chain this way yet, but it is noticeable when this happens & done cumulatively will certainly make for an expensive lesson.
Assembler
ArboristSite Operative
Ok just wondering as there is also rocking of the teeth no matter how tight the chain is. Sometimes there is a wave type action of the chain that can make or give the feel that the bar is rocking back and forth as a wave builds and then smooths out.
csmillingnoob
ArboristSite Operative
yeah, unstretched, new chains can kinda suck when milling.
Generally speaking I try to get a few crosscuts on a chain for initial stretching before I run the chain in a mill. I start with a 30-35 degree skip chain; cross cut a bit. Then file it back 5 degrees in the shop. Cut some more, then file it back 5 degrees and then start milling with it. I sharpen at same angle in the field and file back 5 more degrees when I get in the shop after a day of milling.
i mill best around 15 degrees on my cutters. I know others go down to around 10 degrees but cut efficiency and quality just seem to come together best FOR ME at 15 degrees.
