It will be too dangerous and too hard on the saw to run that way. When it grabs hard it's very hard on the crank and bearings. The only option is to sharpen the teeth back. As the tooth is sharpened it gets shorter. As it gets shorter it will gradually close the gap between it and the raker. That's where a grinder comes in handy. I take a red magic marker and color the top of a left and a right tooth so I'll know where I'm at. On the grinder, I'll hit each tooth normally. If you try to take too much off all at once you'll burn the tooth. It will turn blue, loose it's hardness and won't stay sharp. Take off a normal amount on one side, stop at the red mark, swap side and do the same. Then adjust the chain forward a tiny bit and go around both sides again. Being careful not to take off too much at once. The teeth will cool off between rounds. I switched to a diamond wheel. It helps keep the teeth cool and it keeps it's shape a lot longer. Definitely worth the investment to buy a good diamond wheel.
Also buy a $5 raker gauge. It will help keep them at the right height. After gradually lowering the teeth it will come back to the correct height. You might loose half of your tooth though. Depending on how low you cut your rakers. Some people may want to just buy a new chain. If you have a grinder and a half an hour you can fix it. You can do it with a file it will just take longer and be more labor intensive.
What seems to work good for me is to hit the rakers a couple of licks every other time I sharpen the chain.
