Grinding chains with 511A

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Giles

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I have a friend that gave me about twenty five chainsaw chains. Some of these look nearly new but most have been hand filed.
I recently bought an Oregon 511A and have ground a few of my own chains but some of these I can't identify from their markings. The grinder instructions leave a little to be desired.
I know that I can just experiment and get them close but was wondering if anyone knows of a chart available that has some of the listings?
 
Most of the kids and wives that grind the chains at the mom and pop chainsaw dealers grind every chain the same. 30/60

I've started to sharpen chains that had been filed with a file plate guide and the top plate angles are all over the place whereas the chains had cut pretty good.

So you'll be doing pretty good as long as you get close.
 
I have the same one

I started out at the 30/60/90 as described in the book but never seemed near as sharp as new even with rakers filed too deep. I changed to 30/50/90 and never looked back..still not exactly factory but plenty fast and no matter if I do a poulon, husky, stihl, or homelite..that is my angle..make sure your rakers are where they need to be and the cutters are close side to side or you will cut half moons. done that too..
 
I think I may give 50 degrees a shot. 60 doesn't seem to give as much hook as a file unless you get way down in to the cutter which results in a sharp but weak corner. 60 degrees and only taking the wheel as far as the edge of its radius seems to produce a durable but not so sharp corner. I've been thinking my wheel's radius needed some fine tuning.

Yes, I sharpen all my chains the same.
 
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Hope this helps.

Thought I had one stashed back in the shop. Hope this helps and works, I think you can click on the pic a few times and then it will zoom, or save and open it up as pic. Hard to explane, not a puter guru here at all. LOL. Enjoy your 511A.
View attachment 312742
 
Thought I had one stashed back in the shop. Hope this helps and works, I think you can click on the pic a few times and then it will zoom, or save and open it up as pic. Hard to explane, not a puter guru here at all. LOL. Enjoy your 511A.
View attachment 312742

THANKS stipes---That's what I have been hunting. It will be helpful to me as well as others.
 
Giles,

Did you get the manual with your grinder? A similar chart is in the back (page 15).
Courtesy of Bailey's: http://www.baileysonline.com/PDF/Oregon511amanual_english.pdf
Here is the manual for the similar 510 grinder: http://www.oregonproducts.com/pdfs/510A_Manual_English_Rev3.pdf

Specific information on individual Oregon brand chains is listed in their Maintenance and Safety Manual: OREGON Maintenance and Safety Manual

For Carlton chains: http://content.yudu.com/A25sb5/Carlton2013-14Catlog/resources/index.htm (e.g. page 3)

STIHL references their USG grinder, and the angles do not translate directly to a 511A, but they normally list sharpening angles on the insert sheet that comes with new chain.


==================================================================

Having listed those resources above for reference . . . .

I now believe that it is more important to grind/file the chains according to how/what you are cutting than to the manufacturer's original specifications. When I started sharpening chains I was obsessive about matching their specs. Then a few of their reps told me that since they are selling chains to millions of users, those specs were were for a hypothetical 'average' customer. That where the '30/60/0' 'standard' comes in for semi chisel chain.

My current 'standard' is 30/55/0. I went from 60 to 55 degrees after I noticed that Oregon was increasingly specing that in their current manual for more chains and that it gives it a slightly nicer hook.

All clean softwood? Maybe grind closer to 25 degrees.
All hardwood or frozen wood? Maybe closer to 35 degrees.
Full chisel chain? take the vise tilt to +10/-10 degrees.

Under test conditions, I am sure that the optimum angles vary slightly between brands and models of chains. But in a practical sense, I think that if you find something that works for you, you can stick with it for most chains.

Philbert
 
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Giles,

Did you get the manual with your grinder? A similar chart is in the back (page 15).
Courtesy of Bailey's: http://www.baileysonline.com/PDF/Oregon511amanual_english.pdf
Here is the manual for the similar 510 grinder: http://www.oregonproducts.com/pdfs/510A_Manual_English_Rev3.pdf

Specific information on individual Oregon brand chains is listed in their Maintenance and Safety Manual: OREGON Maintenance and Safety Manual

For Carlton chains: OREGON Maintenance and Safety Manual (e.g. page 3)

STIHL references their USG grinder, and the angles do not translate directly to a 511A, but they normally list sharpening angles on the insert sheet that comes with new chain.


==================================================================

Having listed those resources above for reference . . . .

I now believe that it is more important to grind/file the chains according to how/what you are cutting than to the manufacturer's original specifications. When I started sharpening chains I was obsessive about matching their specs. Then a few of their reps told me that since they are selling chains to millions of users, those specs were were for a hypothetical 'average' customer. That where the '30/60/0' 'standard' comes in for semi chisel chain.

My current 'standard' is 30/55/0. I went from 60 to 55 degrees after I noticed that Oregon was increasingly specing that in their current manual for more chains and that it gives it a slightly nicer hook.

All clean softwood? Maybe grind closer to 25 degrees.
All hardwood or frozen wood? Maybe closer to 35 degrees.
Full chisel chain? take the vise tilt to +10/-10 degrees.

Under test conditions, I am sure that the optimum angles vary slightly between brands and models of chains. But in a practical sense, I think that if you find something that works for you, you can stick with it for most chains.

Philbert

THANKS--Excellent reply:msp_thumbup:
 
I have 2 grinders. I use the Oregon 511AX for sharpening my chains and I use the Northern Equipment knock off grinder for the rakers. The Oregon is of course better quality. I only use stihl full chisel chain and I just leave my grinder set up as 60/30/0. Some guys use 25 degree for full chisel chains with 10 degree tilt. Myself I am happy with the 60/30/0. I was thinking of trying the Oregon bars and chains on my stihl saws and was wondering if that was recommended by anyone here. I run 066 saws only. I had 3 of them but had 2 stolen out of my truck on a job.
 
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