Having trouble raising the rpm on a Husqvarna 395XP
- Thread starter Stihlsawshop
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Did you ever get it running correctly ??? I’m just curious how you made out buddy
i've noticed on some hyway cylinder kits the ring is too stiff and cause high resistance which could rob some rpm ?
Im gonna also toss this in,, bought a 395 and same thing no high end,, ended up being a funky throttle cable not allowing full throttle. The P/O
thought the saw was done,,,
thought the saw was done,,,
Bought a 450 John Deere crawler for my brother we were told the reverser was bad.. Found a limestone (Road) rock restricting clutch pedal from coming back up all of the way....
Brent Nowell
Addicted to ArboristSite
Bigbadbob and Robin Hood good theories!!! Most plausible imo.
OP try working the throttle with the air filter off with your finger, see what she does for rpms then?
OP try working the throttle with the air filter off with your finger, see what she does for rpms then?
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I had a customer bring me a good sized husky to work on, he couldn't figure it out. It ran perfectly, except the idle wouldn't go very high. I checked everything, it already had a brand new carb on it, he bought up at the local Husky dealer, said that they even had it on the shelf.
Pulled my hair out.
He then said he had another saw of the same model at home, but a bad piston. I said bring it to me.....
I swapped coil, flywheel, eic., no change..
I bought a new kit, and rebuilt the old carb, and that cured it.
Looking closer at it, the local dealer had put on the carb for the same model's cutoff/concrete saw.....
Pulled my hair out.
He then said he had another saw of the same model at home, but a bad piston. I said bring it to me.....
I swapped coil, flywheel, eic., no change..
I bought a new kit, and rebuilt the old carb, and that cured it.
Looking closer at it, the local dealer had put on the carb for the same model's cutoff/concrete saw.....
Huskybill
Addicted to ArboristSite
Bought a stuck husky 2100 they added metal to the broken starter housing using nuts and screws, the nut jammed the fin on the flywheel. Number 3 2100 is looking like a runner now. Number 4 is in the mail.
There are tons of clowns in this industry , many dealers these days are so I’ll informed it’s sickening but you can thank stihl for that ... getting too big for their britches.. when it comes down to it it goes like this you can be the best servicing dealer in the area know the product inside an out recite it all in your sleep but if you can’t move product they do not give you the perks or let as much slide thru warranty as say the dealer down the street that has a few commercial tree trimming accounts an has one of these 
so called certified technicians. It’s ****** but it’s the truth I witness it first hand . Have you ever brought your saw to a dealer just to have him tell you it’s not worth fixing within a few minutes of handing your saw to him or having to listen to the well it’s not really “cost effective “ to repair??? These are the words of a salesman not a shop with a reputable mechanic. If they pull the cord an say it’s burned up low compression .. don’t just take their word for it! Ask for proof , any reputable shop should be able to pull a tech off a job an show you first hand by removing the muffler revealing what condition the pistons in with in 5 min with the proper tools. It’s your right as the customer to be Able to ask questions. To many dealers these days should not even be legit dealers! Share your experiences with your local “ dealers” guys . The good the bad and don’t leave out the ugly!!!
so called certified technicians. It’s ****** but it’s the truth I witness it first hand . Have you ever brought your saw to a dealer just to have him tell you it’s not worth fixing within a few minutes of handing your saw to him or having to listen to the well it’s not really “cost effective “ to repair??? These are the words of a salesman not a shop with a reputable mechanic. If they pull the cord an say it’s burned up low compression .. don’t just take their word for it! Ask for proof , any reputable shop should be able to pull a tech off a job an show you first hand by removing the muffler revealing what condition the pistons in with in 5 min with the proper tools. It’s your right as the customer to be Able to ask questions. To many dealers these days should not even be legit dealers! Share your experiences with your local “ dealers” guys . The good the bad and don’t leave out the ugly!!!
Brent Nowell
Addicted to ArboristSite
Yea it is sad... I think there is good money to be made In Repairing old equipment, but really who is going to spend it?There are tons of clowns in this industry , many dealers these days are so I’ll informed it’s sickening but you can thank stihl for that ... getting too big for their britches.. when it comes down to it it goes like this you can be the best servicing dealer in the area know the product inside an out recite it all in your sleep but if you can’t move product they do not give you the perks or let as much slide thru warranty as say the dealer down the street that has a few commercial tree trimming accounts an has one of these
I honestly have very little idea how much it costs to say repair a broken case on a husky 372 with labor? Can someone give a ballpark? Just curious to how close that number is or maybe it’s not close at all to a new 372?
Let’s just for ***** and giggles say a 372xp xtorq with a broken case half that needs to be replaced. Factor in the labor and the new gaskets required (cause let’s assume the old ones are gonna rip)put it all back together?
In all reality splitting cases flat rate husky gives us 45 min in the flat rate book now that’s moving no customer interruptions all your special tools Layed out prior to the job , a clean crankcase not one where your constantly running outside to blow off goobers if saw dust an bar oil etc . All parts layed out , .... this is the time they give you using new case halves oem w the bearings already pressed in. It’s noting more then removing case fasteners, splitting case - which should literally take you 5-7 min w proper tooling - then using the proper puller using crank threads pull the case halves together and grab your seal drivers whack them in bing bang boom to perfect depth an trim case gasket . From there you probably won’t even have 1/2 hr , from there you slam your top end on w intake tract assembly already completely assembled ,drop your throttle cable in and pop your av mounts back in carb base. Lock everything down and lock tite your muffler fasteners . Install your top covers and your done. There is NO reason this complete job from start to finish should take longer then an hour an 15 min. If it does your dealer needs to hand in his tools ...... or stop being cheap an buy the specialty tools to repair professional saws professionally and in a timely manner. I do on the average 2 crank case jobs a week for the dealer I work for and yes it is very profitable when most dealers won’t even take on case jobs because they are to lazy and nowant only the gravy fuel related work.... the world has gone to **** quality is not even close to what it was years ago anno one seems to care don’t get caught up with one of these flyby night dealers all they care about is the money you are just a number to them , find one that will walk you thru their shop during their slow time ,an prove to you they do quality repair work, and are not just parts changers like the majority of people that claim to be mechanics these days!
I grew up with a machinest for a father , who was also a maintence mechanic . Both these lines of work went hand in hand if he needed something special tooling or parts wise he made it, especially when you couldn’t buyit. He learned manually not Cnc during his apprenticeship. Sharpening drills,an carbide tool bits by hand knowing exactly where to put reliefs as well as chip breakers was the normal . I was honored as a child to be allowed to watch an take in this knowledge from a dying trade such as his. He bestowed in me work ethic and how to take pride in a job well done ....something a lot of mechanics these days have no clue about
Cottonwood Feller
ArboristSite Lurker
I have a similar problem with my 395 big bore. Wont go past 11,600rpm and is gutless, act like the rakers are too low but it had a brand new chain, sounds good and revs good but bogs when you put the 28" bar in a log, my 288s all out cut it by far. Well my 262 outcuts it.
I am in total agreement with all of you on saw shop experts,.But because the stuff you buy today is dirt cheap to buy but designed to be thrown away .Today average paper mill worker makes 35.00 dollars an hour and goes to Sears and buys 18hp lawn tractor for 1500.00 dollars so he had to work 42 hours to buy it. In a couple of years trans is making noise he takes it to dealer shop rate 90.00 3 hours to change trans plus 700.00 for trans. Save the planet throw it in the dump buy new.
I have the 1975 Sears catalog in front of me Sears tractor 16hp onan 3 speed trans 1499.00 plus 310.00 for mower deck equals 1809.00.In 1975 at the paper mill he makes 5.00 an hour so he had to work 362 hours or 9 weeks to cut his grass. Forty five years later his grandson is cutting his own grass with same tractor .The chain saws cost 190.00 back then and those were low end saws.
So my point is we have it good if we are one of the lucky ones who still has a decent blue collar job.
In todays throw away world what honest small engine shop could hand a customer a bill for 90.00 dollars.One hour shop rate to clean up check out and make a simple adjustment to fix a customers 99.00 saw. The only way they can compete is sell more units.
I needed the intake boot for a Stihl 032 since I cannot cross the border due to the covid I could not order it USA. I finally found one dealer who had to order it from Stihl. 73.49 for a little tube of rubber.Thank you great mother Stihl.
Kash
I have the 1975 Sears catalog in front of me Sears tractor 16hp onan 3 speed trans 1499.00 plus 310.00 for mower deck equals 1809.00.In 1975 at the paper mill he makes 5.00 an hour so he had to work 362 hours or 9 weeks to cut his grass. Forty five years later his grandson is cutting his own grass with same tractor .The chain saws cost 190.00 back then and those were low end saws.
So my point is we have it good if we are one of the lucky ones who still has a decent blue collar job.
In todays throw away world what honest small engine shop could hand a customer a bill for 90.00 dollars.One hour shop rate to clean up check out and make a simple adjustment to fix a customers 99.00 saw. The only way they can compete is sell more units.
I needed the intake boot for a Stihl 032 since I cannot cross the border due to the covid I could not order it USA. I finally found one dealer who had to order it from Stihl. 73.49 for a little tube of rubber.Thank you great mother Stihl.
Kash
as someone already pointed out,after market cylinders have sometimes minute differences,an oem cylinder is superior and what you should be using on these big saws,stop skimping on low cost junk,by your own admission you are now into saw for all kinds of time and money,not worth it!also by husqvarna specs 8700 rpm is max?
I stopped at Aftermarket!
8700 would be max power while cutting
I put a Hyway BB popup kit on my 395 mill saw. Squish was dead on .040, though I’ve seen .080 in the non pop kits. The casting wasn’t amazing, so I ported it and dropped the squish to .030. I thought I ruined it because the plating is very brittle and flakes at the ports. I took the exhaust higher than I wanted because of the flaking but it ended up right at stock height. No problem hitting 12,500. Plenty of torque. It rips a 42” skip through Honeylocust without issue. The compression is annoying though. Trying to restart in the jig is hard on the shoulder.
My guess is the OP has sloppy squish and casting flaws that are holding the saw back. The exhaust timing could certainly be too low as well. Mine was. I’m not impressed with the Hyway kit, but mine is working well. The flaky plating worries me.
My guess is the OP has sloppy squish and casting flaws that are holding the saw back. The exhaust timing could certainly be too low as well. Mine was. I’m not impressed with the Hyway kit, but mine is working well. The flaky plating worries me.
