Head gasket or permatex?

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Okie294life

Brush Popper and Amateur Tree Butcher
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I had an issue with my 028 super idling, took it in for a leak test. The dealer said my cylinder head was leaking air around the gasket. They said they tightened it up but that stihl only used sealant on these and not gasksets. This sounds like crap to me but I’ve rebuilt a couple of clamshell saws with sealer, and seemed to have success so I put some permatex on it. My question is does this sound right? Just being a dummy I would assume that a normal gasket would always seal better. It’s definitely a lot quicker and less messy, not to mention there seems to be room for error when dumping this crap out onto a mating surface.
 
Maybe I should rephrase he said that they (the stihl dealer) never put head gaskets back in them, that they always used some special magic dirko stuff that they can’t sell to the general public.
 
I've used Hylomar with positive results. I've used it on motorcycle engines, 2 cycle kart engines and chain saws, never had a leak.
 
Base gasket delete as some call it. Is common. I used yamabond 4 when I sealed up my 288xp. Use a thin layer. A lot goes a long way.
 
That's it
I put it in there, and it does run a lot better now that it’s not sucking air from a POS gasket. The exhaust sounds different, more of a pop when it fires, so maybe it got a bump on compression too, or it’s actually burning fuel instead of pumping air! Don’t know but thanks either way.
 
I put it in there, and it does run a lot better now that it’s not sucking air from a POS gasket. The exhaust sounds different, more of a pop when it fires, so maybe it got a bump on compression too, or it’s actually burning fuel instead of pumping air! Don’t know but thanks either way.
My experience with a leaker is they won't idle and act finicky revving up but scream on top end.....then melt down.
 
My experience with a leaker is they won't idle and act finicky revving up but scream on top end.....then melt down.
If the first two symptoms occur, you can save the top end by shutting it down before the third and fourth symptom happens! Even with hearing protection, you can most times tell when your Saw is about to self-destruct. :cool:
 
If the first two symptoms occur, you can save the top end by shutting it down before the third and fourth symptom happens! Even with hearing protection, you can most times tell when your Saw is about to self-destruct. :cool:
That’s what it was doing. I’m at least savvy enough not to weld the piston and block together, I kept turning up the high jet through the whole deal to keep it from spinning up, which in turn caused it to run worse obviously. It’s real deceiving because at first I thought it was seals because it did it worse on one side so I replaced the seals and SOS.
 
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