Hello all of you arborists out there. I am as stated a tree planter. One of the biggest controversies out there is of course burlap left on or off.

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Treeplanter30plus

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Now I see that most of you say take it off. I am going to say something you don't want to hear but...I leave it on(but always cut away anything from the trunk area so as not to girdle). I have been doing this for over 30 years. I also have multiple plants on my farm brought in from wholesalers that are now proof (to at least myself) that the burlap does biodegrade and its almost always within the first year. So my question to you is since you say some trees are ok with this and some not. What is the ratio of trees with burlap dying vs those without...i find that the most common reason a plant dies is usually related to the customer not maintaining it(90% because they either underwater or overwater). Please give me all your comments on this. Thank you very much.
 
I have no experience on this so I'm just asking a couple questions - from my analytical background.
Will the roots naturally not spread past the burlap in the first year or will they grow through it?
Does the burlap enhance root growth or introduce possible restriction?
Does leaving it on benefit the tree in any way?
Could leaving it on harm the tree in any way?
Have you buried a piece of burlap for a year and then dug it up to confirm it degraded?
I think I would at least cut the burlap so the upper part of the root ball is open.
 
I have no experience on this so I'm just asking a couple questions - from my analytical background.
Will the roots naturally not spread past the burlap in the first year or will they grow through it?
Does the burlap enhance root growth or introduce possible restriction?
Does leaving it on benefit the tree in any way?
Could leaving it on harm the tree in any way?
Have you buried a piece of burlap for a year and then dug it up to confirm it degraded?
I think I would at least cut the burlap so the upper part of the root ball is open.
Hello. I am also a very logical/analytical person. That is why I do not understand the controversy in this matter. I have been planting trees for over 30 years. I keep some at my farm and have only reflected what i have seen first hand. I would love for a Michigan arborist to come and do a study for the benefit of everyone. The burlap does biodegrade as long as the tree gets watered. I have found that if it doesn't then no the burlap stays. To be continued....
 
Hello. I am also a very logical/analytical person. That is why I do not understand the controversy in this matter. I have been planting trees for over 30 years. I keep some at my farm and have only reflected what i have seen first hand. I would love for a Michigan arborist to come and do a study for the benefit of everyone. The burlap does biodegrade as long as the tree gets watered. I have found that if it doesn't then no the burlap stays. To be continued....
Well, if you are totally confident your method works and have never had a tree not survive traceable to the burlap, why raise the question?
 
Continued- answering your questions.
I find that depending on the plant it goes both ways. Fast growing trees shoot roots right thru burlap. Slower growing ones dont have to because the bulap is gone. Yes gone.
I would say it neither enhances nor restricts.
I would say to some extent it help because it contains it during the moving process. I see no harm as long as it is natural burlap.
Yes i have buried burlap of many varieties, as long as it is not treated with anything it bio degrades definitely within the first year and in most cases within 6 months as long as it receives moisture. If left simply buried it takes a few years.
And yes i do take away everything around the trunk/top of the tree.
This is my experience. I plant/ hold in stock at my farm approximately 2-3k trees every year. I would love to have a Michigan based arborist come and do a full study on this subject so we can try to settle a very long and frustrating debate. Any takers?
 
Well, if you are totally confident your method works and have never had a tree not survive traceable to the burlap, why raise the question?
I raise this discussion because many people i plant for try to blame their dying tree on anything but themselves and it gets frustrating. Especially when they Google it and read all the different info online...
 
Anything that impedes root growth should be removed .
The cage is even worse
I have trees on my property that have been there since 1971. At that time we left both burlap and cage on. They are beautiful norway maples that now have about a 14" base and a beautiful complete structure. Absolutely no sign of impeding anything. I always say plants want to grow. Look at some of the wonderful wild growing trees that can grow on cliffs and other various odd places. Thru a fence, around a giant rock. Etc...
 
I raise this discussion because many people i plant for try to blame their dying tree on anything but themselves and it gets frustrating. Especially when they Google it and read all the different info online...
Understood - so why not remove the burlap - at least it eliminates the possibility. Really, how much trouble is it to remove it? Why be so adamant that it needs to stay? Sounds like you ARE seeing an undesireable number of failed plantings so why not change something? We know removing it can't hurt to remove it.
 
Understood - so why not remove the burlap - at least it eliminates the possibility. Really, how much trouble is it to remove it? Why be so adamant that it needs to stay? Sounds like you ARE seeing an undesireable number of failed plantings so why not change something? We know removing it can't hurt to remove it.
Unture. Out of the 700+ trees per year i plant only less than 15 die. At the customers house. Of the 700+ i plant on the farm for growing about 5 maybe.
We plant mostly large trees. It is very difficult to take the burlap off the whole thing. And knowing what I do, why would I. I really just started this discussion to get statistics from other people.
 
Well, if you are totally confident your method works and have never had a tree not survive traceable to the burlap, why raise the question?
I think your question is viable and has worth because even if you believe you know the answer Smart men ask questions simply to expand their preceptions. Years ago I was flying Stunt but would ask every pilot I met basic questions. One day a couple green guys came into my buddies shop. I struck up a conversation and soon the subjectcwas cross wind landings. Short runways and slipping sideways over tree tops to get onto a runway and several other questions. I was very interested in knowing what THEY knew. Eventually I said my good byes. Jake said as soon as I was outside the guys burst out laughing making fun of how stupid I am. Finally Jake said, guys, you just met one of the best stunt flyers around but you'll never hear him say it. The guy was just finding out WHAT YOU know. My thinking is simple about Burlap. First it holds the root ball together. I set out trees of several types every spring AND when transplanting if to much dirt falls off a root ball many tiny feeder roots can die. Think about expised intestines. The open war wound a man I knew had. If they dry out you can die. He placed a jacket over his wound and lived.
Back to roots and rags.
Tree roots crack sidewalks.
Vines growing between the house and siding will push nails out. Make sure the root ball is moist enough to not spill out like sand and simply cut some up and down slits 2 infhes long around the mid section of the bag and plant. Those roots will rip the bag open.
There's one rule. Never plant to deep. In other words where the above ground trunk is, it should be above ground when its planted. In dry climates or later in the year the hole is dug big and deep enough to sit the tree about 3 inches lower than the surrounding ground BUT honoring the trunk and not filling the set hole level with surrounding land. That means the tree will be in a low spot but the trunk isn't to deep. Secondly. SHADE is critical in sunny sets.
For small trees ill cut tree branches and stick them all way around the set. Plenty of water for the first few days. When the shade branches turn brown the broken shade is good. Eventually a little bark around the set to prevent excessive moisture evaporation. Ive transplanted small Dog Wood trees in July here in Louisiana. Yep its tricky but possible. You can use cut or sliced bags. When I root I pot. I'd rather transplant from a pot than dig move plant. If you dig up a small tree you can wrap a big wet blanket around it pot it in a big pot blanket and all. Next year set it out as if it were a tomota plant. Right now im experiementing. Trying to root Bradley Pear snippets.
Have some New Growth inside my fridge. Kinda wanted to see how the cold water would act.
Have fun.
 
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