Hello...Pro Mac 55

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That is an SP125, used it quite a bit on that particular job.

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I found your parts in the attic, should be in the mail on Monday. For future reference, it is not necessary to take the tank top off to replace the fuel line.

Mark

I would love to find a SP125 here locally. Thanks again for sending the part.
 
Has anyone repaired the fuel tanks this way? Not sure if it would work on the Pro Mac 55 since the tanks are different.

 
I'd have to agree Mark. The question was asked if the JB Weld would seal the tank and of course it will. I think I would go with a little Motoseal in the groove if I didn't have the gaskets. Some think that JB Weld is a permanent fix but it can be removed very easily, I used to do it all day long in my job. Admittedly it wasn't on fuel tanks though..
 
I don't see any benefit to using JB Weld when the rubber gaskets are so readily available today. There are times when taking the tank apart is the best way such as scrubbing out some stubborn varnish.

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Mark

Yeah thats a good point. Where do you order your gasket kits for these saws? I want to have a couple gasket kits and carb kits on hand. Oh and a couple fuel lines.

Also, do you guys do the ignition upgrade from points on these saws?
 
The gasket sets can be found on e-bay, reasonably priced and good quality stuff.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-New-McCul...678534?hash=item5b2bf7b746:g:3kIAAOSwzaJX7Ycd

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-McC...879549?hash=item25cfc9817d:g:9KkAAOSwr~lYp5bw

I prefer to keep my points saws original, others prefer the chip. Chainsawguy has a neat little bracket he makes to mount the chip near the coil, keeps it in the cooling air stream which some would saw helps. That video has been posted just above.

The throttle lock does appear on e-bay from time to time, they generally get $10+ for them.

Pancake muffler complete with the louvers, nice.

Tie straps on the chain look like it might be .354 pitch, take a look at one of the drivers and see what number they have stamped on them. You have to be careful since .354 is very close to 3/8 pitch, the sprockets look like they might work but they are not interchangeable.

Mark
 
Sierra, I have a Pro Mac 55 thats completely identical to yours. I tried a cork gasket on the tank and with or without sealer, it still leaked like a sieve. I eventually gave up on the gasket idea and just JB welded the tank on, and so far no leaks (although mine is still not running right lol)
 
Sierra, I have a Pro Mac 55 thats completely identical to yours. I tried a cork gasket on the tank and with or without sealer, it still leaked like a sieve. I eventually gave up on the gasket idea and just JB welded the tank on, and so far no leaks (although mine is still not running right lol)
Make sure you didn't seal up the vent...I think it's in the cap on those.
 
Not usually but I think sometimes the vent in the cap will leak if turned on it's side long enough with a full tank of fuel..I still like the vent in the cap more than some of the conglomerations that some of the newer saws have.
 
There were/are perhaps a dozen variations in the 10 Series fuel caps and most used a black rubber duck bill valve as a check, hold pressure in the tank up to a point, but allows the tank to vent as the fuel is consumed. I have had pretty good success replacing the old McCulloch duck bill valves with the red Homelite part (69451) or with the green Poulan part (530026119). You have to modify the plastic center in some caps to accept the Homelite duck bill valve since it has a larger O.D. I drill them out to 5/32" diameter x about 1/4" deep...you don't have to change anything for the Poulan part.

The spring is designed to allow the valve to lift and vent if the tank pressure goes to high.

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Some of the later 10 Series caps were almost impossible to take apart to replace the duck bill valve.

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Mark
 
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