Help! 562xp engine won't start when "lukewarm".

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I had a 576xp auto tune for about a year,it was stolen. I just broke in the saw as I would any other. I never had problems with the auto tune system. That saw was kind of disappointing to me out of the box,but seemed to gain a little something every time I ran it. I was really starting to like it then it was gone:mad:
 
UPDATE

The dealer replaced my saw with another 562xp and I am having the EXACT same problem. Starts fine cold, but not warm.

Video: http://www.seanadams.com/temp/562xp_start.mov

Please watch and let me know if you can tell anything by the way it is turning over.

I can only imagine at this point that I must have bought some bad gas. The gas was new but maybe it was a bad blend?

I just picked up some 93 from a different gas station and will try it tomorrow.

(please let me know if the video loads OK for you, I am having trouble loading it myself but I think my internet is being problematic)
 
If you want a different saw then get a 362 stihl. They weigh the same as the 562 but have slightly less power but nothing major. Mod the muffler on it and it'll scream. They run alot better after about 25 tanks too. And you want have to worry about it not running right :D

I think if the 362 came with m-tron then it would be close between it and the 562. JMO. I just hate seeing the 362 getting beat up on here all the time because it's an awesome running saw. And the weight is virtually equal. It seems most of the guys here that bad mouth them havent run one thats been broken in well.
 
Today I got some new gas from a different gas station. Ran two tanks through it, then let the saw cool for two hours.

Started again no problem!

I guess I had bad fuel? Octane too high? Too low? Bad blend?

Does the kind of 2 stroke oil make any difference? I am using "pro mix" maybe I will try the Husq brand.
 
Sounds like bad gas. We want to use 92 or 93 octane, I believe the book reccomends that figure.

If ethanol free gas is available to you, then that would be best.

You can do an internet search for stations that have ethanol free gas.

I don't see how the oil in the mix would cause the saw not to start warm, but be sure that you have the oil to gas ratio right.

I use Stihl ultra in my saws, in part because my Husqvarna dealer does not stock the Husqvarna branded oil, but there are a lot of others that are good.

I have run some of the Woodland Pro oil from Bailey's, and I am sure Husqvarna has very good oil as well.
 
They were both supposedly 93. Both BP in fact... although I meant to get a different brand, I forgot what the first station was.

I suppose it's possible that I accidentally chose low octane the first time.

I'm going to drive by both stations and just see if there's anything different about the info on the pump. Maybe one was 91 and one was 93 or something.

I am pretty meticulous about getting the ratio right.
 
I also have a 562 that has about 6-7 tanks run through is all. Since day one it has been easy to flood, when cold you better be ready to catch it when it fires and after a good heat soak it will never start without holding throttle open a little. This saw is still new to me though and when I am cutting I am happy with its performance I just hope the autotune doesnt end up like the early automotive computer controlled carbs that I remember would not hold a candle to injection of any kind. I have been kickin to much butt and have next winters wood all cut and need some fresh meat. Hopefully I can find wood and run a few tanks out this week after work and see if I can better master starting this monster. Just for reference my 353 fires first pull when anything other than ice cold so I may be spoiled. Oh yeah forgot to mention it smokes at idle whereas my 353 does not both running out of same fuel can.
 
UPDATE

The dealer replaced my saw with another 562xp and I am having the EXACT same problem. Starts fine cold, but not warm.

I can only imagine at this point that I must have bought some bad gas. The gas was new but maybe it was a bad blend?

I just picked up some 93 from a different gas station and will try it tomorrow.

Stop wasting your money on higher octane fuels, the saw does not need them, and with the autotune system higher octanes can cause problems/errors.

How exactly are you re-starting the saw and please define a warm saw? 10 seconds vs 2 hrs is a big difference. The fast idle position on the carb is present for a reason.

Restart very warm/aka hot engage choke, disengage choke, hit de-comp, pull. Buy engaging the choke then turning it off it mechanically open the throttle a hair.
 
Mine never starts warm or hot without help with the throttle unless it has only been a minute of sitting, if its been 5 -10 forget it, correct me if wrong but it is impossible to start without first setting choke then blipping the throttle to release choke then decomp. and pull so how can this be screwed up by anyone as long as they know not to use the choke when warmed up? Thanks for any tips, I hate to go away from the 92octane gas now because my other saw seems to run even better with it. Maybe it doesnt like the stihl ultra but doubt that has anything to do with overfueling as it does. It could be I just havent crossed out of break in territory yet which is believable and then maybe it will cut fuel rates a little, either way I can deal, I bought it and won't get rid of it over this hiccup though I do hope it will improve.
 
Mine never starts warm or hot without help with the throttle unless it has only been a minute of sitting, if its been 5 -10 forget it, correct me if wrong but it is impossible to start without first setting choke then blipping the throttle to release choke then decomp. and pull so how can this be screwed up by anyone as long as they know not to use the choke when warmed up?

The choke system on Husqvarna has two functions. 1 full choke and 2 setting fast idle.

The only difference between the two is the full choke position closes the choke plate, thus reducing the incomming fresh air charge, providing a greater fuel charge to ignite.

Take your 562, dont even thing of starting it. Engage the choke lever then disengage it, then squeeze the throttle......you will hear a click. Then take off your top cover and air filter and repeat and watch the moving parts for each action.
 
I am running Stihl Ultra in all my saws with no problems.

I will admit the off, on, choke, fast idle on one lever takes some getting used to.

I have flooded the 562 because of getting the choke lever in the wrong place.

I have 4 Husqvarnas and three different ways to choke and cut off the saw.

I really like the set up on the 372 better, but I won't get rid of the 562 because of the different way to choke it.

But I probably will when I want to try something else.

Heck, I sold a new 372XPW. Now why did I do that? I wish I knew ???
 
The choke system on Husqvarna has two functions. 1 full choke and 2 setting fast idle.

The only difference between the two is the full choke position closes the choke plate, thus reducing the incomming fresh air charge, providing a greater fuel charge to ignite.

Take your 562, dont even thing of starting it. Engage the choke lever then disengage it, then squeeze the throttle......you will hear a click. Then take off your top cover and air filter and repeat and watch the moving parts for each action.

Yep, those points surely are missed by some, and there also was a rather misleading misprint (messed up copy&paste really) about it in the early version of the user manual.......:msp_wink:
 
if you want a different saw then get a 362 stihl. They weigh the same as the 562 but have slightly less power but nothing major. Mod the muffler on it and it'll scream. They run alot better after about 25 tanks too. And you want have to worry about it not running right :d

i think if the 362 came with m-tron then it would be close between it and the 562. Jmo. I just hate seeing the 362 getting beat up on here all the time because it's an awesome running saw. And the weight is virtually equal. It seems most of the guys here that bad mouth them havent run one thats been broken in well.
there is not as much difference between the 2 saws as everyone has been led to believe. Besides that, if one runs good all of the time,and the other won't start, or won't run right, the 362 is still the better saw. I think the 562 will be a good saw,it will just take them a year or so to get it right.......something that should have been done before the release of a new model. Anyway, stay tuned,.......stihl has something big around the corner,that will make autotune,m-tronic saws a thing of the past almost overnight. Autotune/m-tronic saws are just a stepping stone.
 
I have been running av gas in mine with no problems. Saw took about 5 minutes to tune itself then off it went.
 
I will admit the off, on, choke, fast idle on one lever takes some getting used to.

I have flooded the 562 because of getting the choke lever in the wrong place.
I do like the on/off/choke controls on the 346 and 357 better. But the 562 controls are fine, just need to get used to it.

Faster (stock) than a ported 357 sounds promising - but I guess it matters who ported that 357........:msp_smile:
I ported the 357 and with good gains. No doubt someone with more porting experience could get more out of it. Stock 357 vs stock 562 they're not even close. :msp_smile:

It is in the manual, page 29, under carb. adjustments! :msp_smile:
Haven't seen it in my manual. I'll look again though.
 
mate just fix the problem it will be under waranty anyway.sounds like a fuel problem have u checked the breather?

Yes I did. I could not blow air through it, although I don't know if the breather is supposed to act as a high-pressure relief only. I took it apart and put it back together without the smaller filter element on one end (which I lost - little foamy looking metal cylinder about 1.5mm across), and then it would pass a little bit of air. This stopped the tank from building up high pressure, but it did not change the starting behavior.

The new saw also builds up high pressure in the tank. I am thinking this must be a deliberate feature now, and not a problem with the vent?
 
The choke system on Husqvarna has two functions. 1 full choke and 2 setting fast idle.

The only difference between the two is the full choke position closes the choke plate, thus reducing the incomming fresh air charge, providing a greater fuel charge to ignite.

Take your 562, dont even thing of starting it. Engage the choke lever then disengage it, then squeeze the throttle......you will hear a click. Then take off your top cover and air filter and repeat and watch the moving parts for each action.

Yes I have been doing it correctly, although I didn't really understand the mechanism. I will take a closer look thanks.
 
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