Help choosing a used Husky... Pro Saw on a Rookie Budget

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Even at $150 for a shortblock I can still buy the entire saw for just a tad over $300.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/ECHO-Chain...265684?hash=item547392fcd4:g:3PQAAOSwYeZdRBub

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Echo-CS-59...705934&hash=item262ba1a555:g:S-sAAOSw6IJdydwn

At those prices I consider the saw expendable and easy to replace, and even better I don't mind running the bag off of it as often as I can, it just keeps on getting it done and make a guy feel pretty good about only having a little over $300 invested in it......
 
Correct, the 620P or PW has all the good features. I've bought several of them now in the low $500 range delivered to the door.

The CS-590 lacks the removable drive sprocket on the clutch, and comes with a cheaper laminated bar and plastic handle, but the engine is the same CC's and not too far behind in power and quite a bargain at $300.....
 
My brother is a tried and true Husqvarna fan like myself. He has a nice arsenal of them including a 266SE, 480CD, 2100 and a 372XP. I let him run my CS-620PW couple of years ago and it never came home! He told me last Sunday to get him another one as he wants to retire his 266 since a lot of parts and NLA for it.......FWIW.....
 
Why, we're getting it done for less money, and zero issues in long term service, isn't that what this is supposed to be about vs the "Ford vs Dodge vs Chevy" brand loyalty crap?

If that's all these threads are going to be the end users will never get to know what's out there that's making the grade for less cost, not to mention most of the folks doing this are not doing it full time and for a living. Look at the interest in the Poulan 5020 crap. That's all fire starter material here, but folks still buy into those saws and love them and plenty of reports of them doing fine in long term service, for what, $150-200 bucks?........
 
If it's strictly about the money, why spend that much for a japanese saw?

You're buying quality, but also performance. Your brother didn't keep your 620 because it was cheap. It was a leap forward from his old two series. You mentioned him being a "husky guy" but liking that Echo. All I'm saying is if he's only run a 620 and it tickles him that much, he should try a 555 or 562. It's that much more smile inducing.
 
The 590 is huge for 59cc saw, its the size of most 70cc pro saws. I agree with Cliff, @$165 for a top end they become expendable or disposable or whatever. It you have cylinder problems toss the darn thing and go buy a decent pro saw that will be worth rebuilding. Also buy the time you put rim sprockets and whatever to make a 590 a viable saw it aint $300. The 590 is a lot of saw for the money but make no mistake 99% of sales are purely price driven. It cheap msrp is the reason people buy them, thats it.
 
Cliff R said:
Why, we're getting it done for less money, and zero issues in long term service, isn't that what this is supposed to be about vs the "Ford vs Dodge vs Chevy" brand loyalty crap?

If that's all these threads are going to be the end users will never get to know what's out there that's making the grade for less cost, not to mention most of the folks doing this are not doing it full time and for a living. Look at the interest in the Poulan 5020 crap. That's all fire starter material here, but folks still buy into those saws and love them and plenty of reports of them doing fine in long term service, for what, $150-200 bucks?........
Click to expand...

There's nothing wrong with buying an XP. Life is short. Eat a steak every once in a while.
 
I just got a used 545. I know not an xp. But otherwise the same configuration as a 550, right.
It was a great deal, and the saw looked so slim and trim. But the saw feels long and I don't like the angled handlebar so much.

Now the 372 is long also. But it's a bigger saw so I don't mind. And the handlebar seems to have a less severe angle.
 
Colt Marlington said:
I just got a used 545. I know not an xp. But otherwise the same configuration as a 550, right.
It was a great deal, and the saw looked so slim and trim. But the saw feels long and I don't like the angled handlebar so much.
Click to expand...
Last year I put together a 372xp for less than free. This year I did a 562xp for less than what a new top end for an Echo 590 costs. If you're handy and pound the pavement it can be accomplished pretty easily.
 
cuinrearview said:
Last year I put together a 372xp for less than free. This year I did a 562xp for less than what a new top end for an Echo 590 costs. If you're handy and pound the pavement it can be accomplished pretty easily.
Click to expand...
I got a good deal on a complete and running 372xp in good shape.

I think the bar was a Duracut, or some laser welded Oregon, which wouldn't have been my choice. But it works.
 
For the amount of hours run time I'll get from a pro saw, I ain't making design or performance sacrifices for a hundred or two on initial purchase. Price only really matters the day you buy the saw, after a year or two its the saw design and performance that really matters. I've sold 2 year old Stihl/husky pro saws & got half my money back after putting 100's of hours on them. And were surprisingly easy to sell. Anyway the OP wants a hoosky, that's what we should assist him with. Its not like he's making a bad decision or heading down the wrong road.
 
cuinrearview said:
8-10 cord per year, for four households? I suspect that number is a little low. And all of that with a 20" bar on a 50cc? Man, a modern 60+cc saw would really be a game changer for you sir. Time saver too. I suggest scraping up $400 and picking up a nice used 555, 562xp, or 365. I bet you can find a new or near new 2166 for that much coin with a 24" bar and an "R" melted into the bottom.
Click to expand...
Yup I did some measuring, and it's more like 18-19 cords! Thanks for the saw suggestions.
 
Wow you guys have given me some homework, thank you all very much, what a helpful generous community! Yup I do have some loyalty to Husky, mostly because I've tried other saws and I prefer the features and layout of the Huskies I've had, and I'm part Swedish! I could care less if it's an XP, but if it's a well made saw that I can treat well and have it do what I ask I'll be happy. I am not the only one cutting this 18 or so cords, but I'm the main guy doing it. It sounds like around 60cc would be the place to start to keep it light but with adequate power.
 
Woodsnake said:
Wow you guys have given me some homework, thank you all very much, what a helpful generous community! Yup I do have some loyalty to Husky, mostly because I've tried other saws and I prefer the features and layout of the Huskies I've had, and I'm part Swedish! I could care less if it's an XP, but if it's a well made saw that I can treat well and have it do what I ask I'll be happy. I am not the only one cutting this 18 or so cords, but I'm the main guy doing it. It sounds like around 60cc would be the place to start to keep it light but with adequate power.
Click to expand...


Lightness of the powerhead is a questionable decision breaker- for bucking firewood when the majority of the bar is buried, the bar & chain are supporting a lot of the weight as it does the cutting. Different story if you are limbing, but bucking you could probably happily step up to a 70cc saw- 20"bar for most of what you need and a 28"in reserve for when you get some big bits.
Part Swedish you say..... get a 'red saw. ;)
 

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