Help choosing a used Husky... Pro Saw on a Rookie Budget

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If you are going to shop the used market there is risk. Saws purchased on line will often have "smoked" P/C's in them, or other major issues the owner knows about and isn't wanting to deal with, so basically dumping his issues on someone else.

I work on power equipment daily in the shop and one of the first things we do here when something comes in is to check compression and/or remove the muffler and take a gander at the exhaust side of the piston. It will tell the story.

Recently I was given a Husqvarna 51 and a Mac 10-10. Both had sat for decades in a work shop and covered with oil, grease, grime, metal chips, wood chips and dirt. They looked like they needed to be tossed out. Remarkably under all that were two saws in very good to excellent shape on the exterior.

It took a couple of hours and I was looking at two very nice saws. I kept the Mac 10-10, lord knows why as it's the loudest saw I've ever ran, double hearing protection required. I gave the 51 to one of my employees. It needed a fuel line and carb kit, the Mac only needed the carb and fuel system cleaned but I put a fuel line on it while I was there. I gave the 51 to one of my employees so don't have pics of it, but it was really nice.

I don't spend a lot of time shopping the local shoppers mart adds or CL, but enough saws get dumped in my lap that I'll occasionally come up with good saw to add to the line-up, re-sell or do the charity thing.

It typically goes one of two ways with this sort of thing, and important to know. It will typically be a very minor problem that got the saw shelved and easy/low cost repair or it's been straight gassed or ran lean enough that considerable time/funds will be needed to get it up to par. Parts support is poor for many older models and NOT getting any better. If/when you can find an OEM P/C for some of these older Husky's expect to pay dearly for them, no free lunches there. Since I have to put my name on repair work done here I woln't touch an offshore/aftermarket P/C with a ten foot pole and to date have had a 100 percent success rate with OEM.

My 268XP is one of the decent finds I stumbled into over the years. It was laying just inside the door of a local Amish saw shop. It was pretty "rough" on the exterior and would start but not stay running. The Amish shop owner sold it to me for $125 as they didn't want to deal with it. I got it running pretty well but it was problematic from day one so I didn't use it all that much. It also had a very strange issue that drove my nucking futz. It would cut like a 372XP on steroids down thru a log, but on the upstroke it lost power and would barely finish the cut. Being completely baffled by the symptoms and seeing no obvious cause I gave up on it as am typically behind many months in the shop with customer work.

Anyhow, short version of the long story I decided one weekend to completely go thru the 268XP and either figure it out or bury it behind the shop. It got crank seals, anti-vibe mounts, fuel line, filter, tank vent, carb kit, and intake gaskets.

The rubber mounts turned out to be the issue with low power on up-cuts as it allowed the two main components to move far enough away from each other it pulled the throttle linkage back and the throttle plate was nearly closed! I opted for the harder mounts at that time (probably a mistake) but it did the trick..

The intermittent running issue turned out to be a piece a trash under a welch plug in the Tillotson carb. Once fully up to par the 268XP has another zillion or so hours on it with only one glitch was a recent failed spark plug.

So why am I writing a book and all the rambling. I do this for a living, every single day since 2003. I'm a true Husqvarna enthusiast and think that you can't beat the power to weight of many of their saws combined with being very well built and will last a lifetime if properly maintained. Even so I don't let the "Ford/Chevy/Dodge" truck brand loyalty mentality cloud my judgement or influence my decision making when it comes to these things. When folks drag junk in here that's going to take $200-300 to repair and they are going to have a polished POS when done I very quickly advise them to purchase something new with a full warranty like the Echo CS-590. I've had ZERO, and that means not one single problem with all the ones I've sent out of here purchased NIB and given a quick muffler deflector mod and limiter cap mod/custom tuning.

I've had a number of later model "box store" Husqvarna and Stihls in here and they are clamshell plastic throw-away disposable saws for the most part, and many cost as much or more than the Echo CS-590.

Anyhow, I wish you well on your quest and certainly hope that you can nail down that Husqvarna XP saw (I'd stay away from Rancher, mid-range, clam-shell, and low end models) and not end up with a butt-ton of money to get it up to par.......Cliff

PS: two photos below, the Mac 10-10 and a Husqvarna 50 (from an Estate sale not running) with about 2 hours run time on it......


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I've owned a couple 10-10s. Great running saws but as @Cliff R mentioned they're loud and will rattle your fillings loose.

If you are going to shop the used market there is risk. Saws purchased on line will often have "smoked" P/C's in them, or other major issues the owner knows about and isn't wanting to deal with, so basically dumping his issues on someone else.
You've mentioned this a few times, and it gives me the sads that you have this little faith in people. Is this how you feel about the used saws for sale in the trading post on this site?
 
That's just twig cutting. I started with that saw ( husky 50), then purchased a 262xp and re-thought what I was doing. Just step off the edge and purchase a pro 60-70cc class saw and you will do the same. Doing a case up build right now on a 372 and a ( 362 or 365 have not decided yet), do not understand Cliff R's stance on nice rebuilt saws, he must have gotten burnt a few times. I myself have purchased part saws at times that where misrepresented, that's just how it goes. Everything I have purchased on this site came as described or better.
 
No, I take everything in on a case by case basis and for sure the further you get detached from good folks selling saws on dedicated Forums the more likely it will be that you have a bad experience.

Case in point, folks throw saws up on Ebay absolutely knowing they have issues and just let things fall where they may. With the heavy EPA involvement, non-adjustable carbs, limiter caps, "goofy" mixture screws, CAT's, etc the newer the saw the less fuel it is getting to keep EGT's down and bring in additional lubricant to make things happy.

Echo more than most set their saws up pretty lean right out of box so expect a high percentage of P/C problems with Ebay purchases of them. Even with things in place to protect the buyer it's still a major PITA if you need to get the seller to step up and stand behind a bad experience with this sort of thing.

Also consider the cost of resurrecting an older saw from the scrap heap. My 268 XP was a little "rough" around the edges when purchased and obviously very well used. The best news was that the P/C was MINT condition, but just about everything else needed some attention.

So add in the cost of new ant-vibe mounts, crank seals, oil pump seals, carb kit, intake gaskets, fuel line, filter, and the time needed to get all that in place, saw cleaned up and ready to start cutting wood. The initial $125 purchase price was decent, but I'm up closer to $200 with parts and 3-4 hours shop time where I could have been making $100 per hour working on customer stuff. So where's the savings?

Of course if your time isn't as valuable no need to add that to the building investment, but just keep in mind that skill levels vary, as to access to tools and parts. I have a back room completely dedicated to parts/tools I've accumulator over 40 years or so, so more resources than the average hobbyist who will read this.

Not recommending here to avoid used, for sure there are a few good deals available if you search long enough and hard enough, but keep in mind that for $300-325 to your door you can have an EXCELLENT 60cc saw and start cutting wood after spending 15-20 minutes making a few minor mods to it. Once your in the game and piling up wood for heating, then maybe trying to find the XP saw for a makeover to add to your line-up makes more sense.......FWIW.....Cliff
 
PS: don't forget the title of this thread, it includes the words "Rookie Budget". To me that means trying to stay on the "low" end of the scale for purchase price and time/funds needed to get a good end result.

That can be a "lottery ticket" with XP saws, especially older models with scores of items labeled "NLA" in the IPL's.....FWIW and just say-in.....
 
PSS: maybe I should just offer up my 50 Special to the OP and take all the guesswork out of the equation. I shelved it because I have two closed port 55's to wear out first, and at my age it doesn't look like I'm going to be able to get than done before I retire from all of this!.....
 
Husky 365 or 372
Stihl 036 can be found for $300 in good condition and are pretty durable.
 
I do a compression test, remove the muffler and inspect the exhaust side of the piston, and then decide IF it's going to be a "money pit" or not. OEM P/C's can run upwards of $200, so for most of the ones that have obvious issues in that area I shelve them and move on. Maybe at some point if I get bored or have a little extra time outside of shop hours I'll investigate further, and look thru the core pile to see if I have a suitable OEM P/C for the saw in question.

For most everything else, especially fuel related or potential air leak components I don't see a that big of a job ahead or serious expense to get one going again.

Once again I will NOT for any reason use an aftermarket P/C and from a business standpoint that has been a good decision on my part. I suppose if one is resurrecting a saw for personal use you might go that direction, but for customer jobs it leaves here with my name on it and I'm not willing to chance putting one together with "low" quality components just so I can see it again and have to try to remind the customer we were trying to save him money per their request......which is a conversation they will NOT remember at that point.

Same thing with vehicle repairs. When a vehicle comes in here for brakes and we discover a bad wheel bearing, for example, they get the $150-200 bearings instead of the $30-50 junk. What that means for me is that I woln't see it again for wheel bearings for closer to 100,000 miles vs 5-10,000 miles......FWIW.......Cliff
 
I do a compression test, remove the muffler and inspect the exhaust side of the piston, and then decide IF it's going to be a "money pit" or not. OEM P/C's can run upwards of $200, so for most of the ones that have obvious issues in that area I shelve them and move on. Maybe at some point if I get bored or have a little extra time outside of shop hours I'll investigate further, and look thru the core pile to see if I have a suitable OEM P/C for the saw in question.

For most everything else, especially fuel related or potential air leak components I don't see a that big of a job ahead or serious expense to get one going again.

Once again I will NOT for any reason use an aftermarket P/C and from a business standpoint that has been a good decision on my part. I suppose if one is resurrecting a saw for personal use you might go that direction, but for customer jobs it leaves here with my name on it and I'm not willing to chance putting one together with "low" quality components just so I can see it again and have to try to remind the customer we were trying to save him money per their request......which is a conversation they will NOT remember at that point.

Same thing with vehicle repairs. When a vehicle comes in here for brakes and we discover a bad wheel bearing, for example, they get the $150-200 bearings instead of the $30-50 junk. What that means for me is that I woln't see it again for wheel bearings for closer to 100,000 miles vs 5-10,000 miles......FWIW.......Cliff
I don't even aftermarket my carb kits...
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+2

I source out genuine Tillotson, Walbro, Zama, etc. You have to be very careful using "Google" to locate them, fancy wording by the folks selling them and more often than not you'll end up with a China or Korea made kit instead of OEM.

I'm one of the main suppliers these days of the highest quality Quadrajet parts on the planet. I have a lot of these parts made to our specs, from much better materials than you're getting in other kits. So much so I lifetime warranty our pump seals, for example, and to date have never had to replace one under that warranty.......Cliff

https://cliffshighperformance.com/
 
SO.......I took a few minutes as I'm in the office this week for the most part and did some CL searching for a decent used or lightly used Husqvarna saw to sort of fit the bill here for what the OP is looking for.

Nothing really jumped out that would make the grade, at least at the price point they were wanting (and folks are wanting "stupid" money for well "beaten" 372's and similar vintage Stihl's , etc:

https://mansfield.craigslist.org/tls/d/ashland-stihl-ms441c/7007209610.html

I did find several 550XP's NIB or "demo" saws around $500-550, but for that kind of money I can buy a CS-590 and a CS-400 (for example) and have a two saw plan, IF I were starting out my firewood cutting efforts. I would NEVER under any circumstances go on an outing with just one saw, unless you take tools along to leave your heavily "pinched" bar in a huge log or tree you were trying to put someplace that didn't follow the play-book....FWIW.......Cliff
 
Pickins are pretty slim on the local CL here too. We are right in the middle of firewood season though. I'm still not sure why you're pushing Echo so hard in a "help me find a Husqvarna" thread. Plenty of good low hour 359s, 357s, 555s, and 562s out there for less than $400. A couple weeks ago there was a 262xp on the local CL for $200obo. Lots of options within a budget and the Husqvarna family. All of the models listed here still have full or nearly full part support currently.
 
Not "pushing" anything, just putting up examples that are LIGHT YEARS better than the Stihl and Husky "box store" plastic crap for less money and they will last longer and provide better long term service....IMHO.

"Lightly" used Husqvarna Pro saws are as rare in these parts as Big Foot sightings. You are either going to find NIB at full or nearly full price, or absolutely beat to **** for a nice 30 percent savings....LOL.....Cliff
 
Well, I don't live that far from ya, and I manage to find some pretty nice runners on a fairly consistent basis. I'd like to think I build some nice ones too.
 
I don't see a lot of potential good deals, at least not enough for me to deal with all the nonsense on CL, trying to nail the seller down to go look at the items, walking out of the shop to loose money trying to get the deal of the century, or meet them in a Walmart parking lot because they are afraid of serial killers and meth addicts wanting to case out their ****.....etc....

I've done very well on CL, but as an example I just sold 4 take-off Goodyear tires from my 2018 Z-71. Got a response, guy was about 20 miles away. Says he's "on his way" to see them at 9am. At 9:30 get a text says he's running 1/2 hour late. Get another text about 20 minutes later says he's another half hour behind. Get a text half out later, two of them, guess he's lost and can't find the house number. I text and call his number, no response and never heard from him again.....guess he doesn't have a GPS, Google Map, driving directions or Mapquest on his hand held computer/cell phone......or he can't count to 10 because there is a 9 in my 5 digit house number.....LOL....
 

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