Help identifying stihl 460 or 440 ?

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I think some 400 grit and red scotchbrite would make that look real nice, scratches or transfer. OP if you'd like me to take a shot at it PM me.
 
I planned on keeping it yes , I will try cleaning it up some more , but it had 143 compression before I tore it down. And that's missing the recoil handle and pulling on the rope wrapped around a screwdriver for a handle haha
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With a meteor piston/caber rings I think you will be very surprised with that cylinder. Already doing 140+ before the cleanup as it will go up a lot with the new piston and a few tanks through it. I have cleaned up a lot of pistons before/filed out the ring groove and put new caber rings in and made a very good saw. If the skirt is good/thick on a piston there is room/thickness to clean it up also. I have tried everything in the last 25-30 years....If the skirt is thin especially on one side the piston is done for.
 
Wife's brother is a 35 year employee of Mahle Corporation in Morristown Tennessee working in the QA department in the piston division.. He says the new metal and redesigned pistons they are running now that go in some of the new diesel engines will create more horsepower and last lots longer than current pistons.

He said it want be long before these will be implemented in chainsaws and a 50cc saw will do 250 compression and last lots longer than current pistons. He says pressure from the EPA is forcing this to meet new environmental standards. The guy can write a book on a piston and knows more than I care to listen to about a piston. A lot of the larger saws are being phased out and probably want be long before a 50cc saw will do what a 70cc is doing now.
 
Well I think I've decided to use the cylinder as is . I just got done cleaning it up even more to the best I can do and there is definately scratches in the cylinder walls. I got a meteor piston on it's way and I'll get it together with that and then pressure /vac test it all and go from there ordering the tank and parts I need to finish it . If I come across a good used 460 or 046 oem stihl cylinder I'll grab it . Crank bearings are nice and play free and smooth . Itll prolly be a few weeks till this is done seeing as I got lots of parts to get and testing to do . Thanks for the help so far

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I got the tank off , took a while to figure out what was broken on it , at first I thought it was that it leaked fuel so I filled it with water and it held it and didnt leak . Its cracked down by where it mounts under the handle . Also has a walboro HD 16 carb so that appears correct as well
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That jug just doesn’t look good, but I guess all you will lose is the meteor piston if you try.

You can probably find a jug used on the trading post, but they are drying up a bit. A good used oem jug will give you the best performance and lifespan.

There are some decent AM jugs available at HL supply. I said decent but not great. They have great directional transfers and are very cheap. They seem to hold up well.

Probably last you a good long time cutting firewood, but I wouldn’t use the piston. Not sure if the supply dried up. They called them “door Buster” jugs and they were around $20 each. Best AM jug I’ve seen.

I’ve got an older AM jug here you can have for the shipping. I also have meteors. The jug is very nice. So nice that I thought it was oem.
 
Saws comming along slowly , I got the new meteor piston and rings in the oem stihl cylinder I cleaned up , new stihl tank handle is on and I just finished pressure testing it and vac testing it . Has held pressure and vac for 10 minutes and hasnt budged . Also put in a new stihl brand impulse line and intake boot . I'm kinda nervous about the squish it's on the tight side with the gasket delete I did and the yamabond in its place . I get .017" and .018" on the axis of the wrist pin . It might not actually be that tight cause I was measuring at the very end of the solder that was crushed so I'm hopeing it will fine . I got my fingers crossed . I'll let you know if it goes vroom or boom lol
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Oh boy........ before rebuild and after rebuild . That light coating of 2 stroke oil on assembly must bump it up pretty good lol . No I have not fired up the saw yet, I just wanted to see what it was at and got this .
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Oh boy........ before rebuild and after rebuild . That light coating of 2 stroke oil on assembly must bump it up pretty good lol . No I have not fired up the saw yet, I just wanted to see what it was at and got this .
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Hope you have a good comp release! It’s my understanding that the best numbers are in the 175 to 185 psi range, unless it’s a race saw. I’m no expert so take it with a grain of salt
 
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