Help me choose my chainsaw.

[Rhapsody]

I’ve recently gotten into chainsaws and tree care. Im 17 and this will be my first chainsaw.
I’ve done ton of research but still can’t decide what chainsaw i should go for. My budget is 200-300 €, which in my country, i can get a used husqvarna 340;345;350;440;445 and some xp models like the 550;555;560. I’ve looked into stihl’s too, but there is much less of those than husqvarnas, on the used market. (Although my relative said that stihl’s are more powerful than husqvarnas, and i should look more in to them)
I would be using the chainsaw for medium to hard cleanup around the property and do the occasional job like sizing trees or cleaning up.
Now, i think a saw like 340 would be too weak for the job i would be doing , but on the other hand , a XP model, would be too expensive to fix + i wouldnt be able to use all of its power.
My main criteria are - Somewhat cheap to fix, enough power and reliable.

 

[MacAttack]

Welcome. I think the first thing people will want to know is what size wood do you expect to be cutting primarily? A one-size-fits-all saw will be difficult to find if you plan on limbing / shaping trees and then also groundwork cutting up 20" logs.

 

[Ryan'smilling]

There is no blanket statement like "Stihls are more powerful" that is correct. There's good and mediocre models in all brands.

If Huskies are what's common in your area, it makes economic sense to go that way.

Like MacAttack says, we're gonna need to know the size wood you're working with. Also, are you fairly strong or a smaller guy?

Personally I like having multiple saws, and if you're gonna do much of this work, it will soon become a necessity. With that in mind, buying a smaller saw (50cc) now and a larger saw (70cc) later would make sense. If you're adamant about only one saw, a compromise saw (60cc) would be an option.

In general, the XP models aren't really any more expensive to fix. They certainly don't have an overall higher cost of ownership. If they did, pros wouldn't run them. That said, the 340,345,350 series of saws are great, and they can have a 346xp piston and cylinder installed on them. I'd rather start with a 346, 351 or 353 because you get the magnesium crankcase, but really, all of those saws can be great runners and don't cost a fortune compared to new stuff.

 

[Jayo]

Are you workin for yourself or what? I'd say start off wit sumthin around the 50cc mark.. but that all depends on what size stuff u be cutting.. 550 or 560 be decent I use alot of new stihl from 201t 261 362 and 500i used to be a husky man till 2 560s packed in wit not even a year on them.. have 2 362s now 1 is a year old other 6months and never any bother wit them.. never used any of the older stihls

 

[Rhapsody]

Welcome. I think the first thing people will want to know is what size wood do you expect to be cutting primarily? A one-size-fits-all saw will be difficult to find if you plan on limbing / shaping trees and then also groundwork cutting up 20" logs.

Somewhere between 10-30 cm in diameter. I think my main problem is as you said, i want a universal saw, meaning, i won't work daily with the saw, but if i need to fell something bigger or do a job that requires a bit more power, i would expect the saw to hold up.

 

[Ryan'smilling]

I will happily buck firewood up to 18" or 45cm with my 346xp saws, which includes a 350 with a ported 346xp top end as well as a stock 353.

 

[Rhapsody]

There is no blanket statement like "Stihls are more powerful" that is correct. There's good and mediocre models in all brands.

If Huskies are what's common in your area, it makes economic sense to go that way.

Like MacAttack says, we're gonna need to know the size wood you're working with. Also, are you fairly strong or a smaller guy?

Personally I like having multiple saws, and if you're gonna do much of this work, it will soon become a necessity. With that in mind, buying a smaller saw (50cc) now and a larger saw (70cc) later would make sense. If you're adamant about only one saw, a compromise saw (60cc) would be an option.

In general, the XP models aren't really any more expensive to fix. They certainly don't have an overall higher cost of ownership. If they did, pros wouldn't run them. That said, the 340,345,350 series of saws are great, and they can have a 346xp piston and cylinder installed on them. I'd rather start with a 346, 351 or 353 because you get the magnesium crankcase, but really, all of those saws can be great runners and don't cost a fortune compared to new stuff.

I am a fairly strong guy, 193 cm in height, but i wouldn't want a chainsaw over 6 kg in weight, ideally around 5kg.
Regarding the cost of ownership, for reference i used the price of the main part - cylinder kit. For the regular saws, price for the kit was under 50 bucks. The XP saws were 100 bucks and over. Again - i don't know how much they break.

 

[Brushwacker]

Somewhere between 10-30 cm in diameter. I think my main problem is as you said, i want a universal saw, meaning, i won't work daily with the saw, but if i need to fell something bigger or do a job that requires a bit more power, i would expect the saw to hold up.

Get as good a saw as you can, for a primary. You will be handicapped cutting big wood with only 50cc or less. I would also pick up an small elcheapo to help with small wood and use as a beater saw for cuts that are more likely to dull the chain etc..A 12 or 14 inch 3/8 Lp chain is faster to sharpen and cheaper to replace chains then the longer bars. Don't try to make a dulled chain cut faster by adding more pressure. It mostly just makes more friction and heat, ruins the bars and chains prematurely and is hard on the powerhead. Keep the primary very sharp which will aid wear and tear on it when cutting through large wood. A sharp straight cutting saw is more then 50% of the equation.
I wouldn't be to brand specific to start. Buy what works, get to work, make some money and buy what works best for your business. My first gas polesaw was a poulan pro, about $200 . 1st job i did with it, it made about $200. I made enough money to upgrade and have a 2nd (stihl pro) after a short while and after that most what they made was profit.

 

[John Lyngdal]

Agree with Ryan that a 346/350/351/353 would be a saw worth looking for.
I'd also be on the lookout for a Stihl 026, like the 346/350/351/353 they are super easy to work on and parts are easily found.

 

[MacAttack]

There is no blanket statement like "Stihls are more powerful" that is correct. There's good and mediocre models in all brands.

If Huskies are what's common in your area, it makes economic sense to go that way.

Like MacAttack says, we're gonna need to know the size wood you're working with. Also, are you fairly strong or a smaller guy?

Personally I like having multiple saws, and if you're gonna do much of this work, it will soon become a necessity. With that in mind, buying a smaller saw (50cc) now and a larger saw (70cc) later would make sense. If you're adamant about only one saw, a compromise saw (60cc) would be an option.

In general, the XP models aren't really any more expensive to fix. They certainly don't have an overall higher cost of ownership. If they did, pros wouldn't run them. That said, the 340,345,350 series of saws are great, and they can have a 346xp piston and cylinder installed on them. I'd rather start with a 346, 351 or 353 because you get the magnesium crankcase, but really, all of those saws can be great runners and don't cost a fortune compared to new stuff.

This is good advice. You can get by doing your groundwork with a 45cc saw until you can afford a second saw, much better than you could take a 372xp up into a tree to shape it!

When I was at the tree service, the climbers would help with the groundwork with their 335xp climbing saws as much as they could once a tree was on the ground.

 

[Ted Jenkins]

Good reasonable question. Here is the answer as you can not go wrong provided that your saw start out at 60 CC. I use Husky 460XT for limbing and occasional cutting. They are popular so parts are available and cheap. Stihl makes some saws too, but parts are hard to get in my area and are very expensive. As long as you start out with at least 60 CC saw and it is popular model you will be good. You should not worry about cost so much as get the best value you can. Borrow a few bucks from whomever as this is for a work venture so you will be able to pay back. You will make the right choice. Thanks

 

[KarlD]

Stihl 026 or 260 imo

 

[Wow]

Somewhere between 10-30 cm in diameter. I think my main problem is as you said, i want a universal saw, meaning, i won't work daily with the saw, but if i need to fell something bigger or do a job that requires a bit more power, i would expect the saw to hold up.

My Echo cs590 NEVER modded nor tuned right out of the store pulls a 27 inch Echo bar with professional semi chisel chain.
Yet it is happy with a 20 inch bar and chain.
Almost 60 cc but has a lot of torque. Just keep the chain Sharp and don't lay on it. Back in 2015 they could be had for about 400 bucks OUT the door.
I'll try to send a photo.

 

[Wow]

My Echo cs590 NEVER modded nor tuned right out of the store pulls a 27 inch Echo bar with professional semi chisel chain.
Yet it is happy with a 20 inch bar and chain.
Almost 60 cc but has a lot of torque. Just keep the chain Sharp and don't lay on it. Back in 2015 they could be had for about 400 bucks OUT the door.
I'll try to send a photo.

Photo of cs590 big tree and m

 

[farmer steve]

Photo of cs590 big tree and mView attachment 828527View attachment 828528

Al I can say is WOW!!!

 

[Wow]

Ha. Ha. The cs490 is a good 50cc saw. Its amazing how much difference 10 cc makes. Even 4 cc. For example the cs 310 vs cs352. I've got a cs310 in my shop. It was puney but after a mm and tune its an OK saw. However stock 352 is much better with just 4 cc adantage. Good day.

 

[chainsawman123]

I’ve recently gotten into chainsaws and tree care. Im 17 and this will be my first chainsaw.
I’ve done ton of research but still can’t decide what chainsaw i should go for. My budget is 200-300 €, which in my country, i can get a used husqvarna 340;345;350;440;445 and some xp models like the 550;555;560. I’ve looked into stihl’s too, but there is much less of those than husqvarnas, on the used market. (Although my relative said that stihl’s are more powerful than husqvarnas, and i should look more in to them)
I would be using the chainsaw for medium to hard cleanup around the property and do the occasional job like sizing trees or cleaning up.
Now, i think a saw like 340 would be too weak for the job i would be doing , but on the other hand , a XP model, would be too expensive to fix + i wouldnt be able to use all of its power.
My main criteria are - Somewhat cheap to fix, enough power and reliable.

you need sthil ms660

 

[Wow]

I see this thread is still going. Have you bought a saw yet?
The best decent 60cc saw for the money has been the Echo cs590 or 600 or 620p.
The 590 has a spur drive but the cs 600 has a rim drive. At 73 I'm semi-retired and most 60 cc saws get pretty heavy quickly.
You need to figure out what size trees you'll be cutting mostly.
I run 3 different bar and chain sets. The 20, 24 and 28 inch bar. I change bars as needed. When I need the big saw bar the 28 is used. Mostly the 24 bar. Because I have a cs 490 for most work the big saw isn't used all day at a time. The Echo cs490 has been the lightest 50cc saw on the market for a long time. But don't be fooled. The 50 cc saw isn't nearly as strong as the cs590.
For ocassional use the cs 590 is difficult to beat. I've heard good and bad about certain models of Husqvarna I'd saw you'd have to know what model to buy.The Husqvarna 455 rancher would not appeal to me when compared to an Echo.
Few people actually think about Bars but my Sthils run a thicker bar. A .050 guage bar is kinda a standard but the bigger Sthils of mine if I recall use .068. Correct me if I'm wrong. All my Sthils use rim drives. I've converted the Sthil 029 to 3/8 pitch and Rim drive. After a mm and some tweaking it pretty good. My brother runs a Sthil 391 with a 20 inch bar and my Echo cs590 keeps right up with him. Good luck.

 

[dave mclennan]

I see this thread is still going. Have you bought a saw yet?
The best decent 60cc saw for the money has been the Echo cs590 or 600 or 620p.
The 590 has a spur drive but the cs 600 has a rim drive. At 73 I'm semi-retired and most 60 cc saws get pretty heavy quickly.
You need to figure out what size trees you'll be cutting mostly.
I run 3 different bar and chain sets. The 20, 24 and 28 inch bar. I change bars as needed. When I need the big saw bar the 28 is used. Mostly the 24 bar. Because I have a cs 490 for most work the big saw isn't used all day at a time. The Echo cs490 has been the lightest 50cc saw on the market for a long time. But don't be fooled. The 50 cc saw isn't nearly as strong as the cs590.
For ocassional use the cs 590 is difficult to beat. I've heard good and bad about certain models of Husqvarna I'd saw you'd have to know what model to buy.The Husqvarna 455 rancher would not appeal to me when compared to an Echo.
Few people actually think about Bars but my Sthils run a thicker bar. A .050 guage bar is kinda a standard but the bigger Sthils of mine if I recall use .068. Correct me if I'm wrong. All my Sthils use rim drives. I've converted the Sthil 029 to 3/8 pitch and Rim drive. After a mm and some tweaking it pretty good. My brother runs a Sthil 391 with a 20 inch bar and my Echo cs590 keeps right up with him. Good luck.

i found the echo cs590 [timberwolf i think] is heavy for 60 cc saw, good power but heavy. id say try a makita es5000 [good jam, 11.8 lbs] or if you have the coin, stihl 261, they are more money but they have the power of most 60 cc saws easily, its easy to use, also my friend just bought a echo cs501 i tried it light and fast,. good luck