Help me picking up the right saw! 545 or 550XP ?

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JF renovation

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I have to make up my mind and I figured asking the pros would be the best way to get real advices. I'm a firm believer that we learn from the best. I have to be honest, I don't know much about chainsaws but I know a whole lot on carpentry tools though. As a general contractor, I understand good tools gets the job done faster with a better results, they don't let you down half way the job done either. So I want to buy a good one, one that will last me a long time with some basic maintenance.

So I just bought 2 acres of land and that's where the interest is coming from regarding the purchase of a chainsaw. I will have small trees to cut down although I don't want to base my purchase on that because it will be mostly use for cutting fire wood. If I have larger trees, I don't mind cutting those with a hand saw if I have to. I don't want to select my chainsaw for a few trees to cut since 90% will be basically cutting fire wood.

I'm good with tools in general but never had the chance to play much with a chain saw so my experience with them is close to half a day on a old small Stihl from my business partner. Anyways, I narrowed down that I want a 50cc, 18'' bar probably. Something light and versatile with good performance without being overkill for me.

After reading lots on this forum I finally narrowed down to two models from Husqvarna, the 545 and the 550XP. And maybe you'll have other models to suggest? Let's take each model and I'll explain what I think about them.

545, formerly the 353: It seems to me that its the exact same saw as the 550XP without revboost and it's $120 less.
-Do I need revboost, I'm not in a hurry nor a pro. I'm afraid to feel like somebody that drive a small old car and buy a NASCAR. Most people would just stall it right away... You get my point?
-What I'm concern too is if it's the same engine but without the boost, is it a good thing? Because if you remove the supercharger from a car, it is usually not running well...
-But it seems to fit my bill, on paper anyways, what do you guys think?

550XP, formerly the 346XP: Reviews on Husky website are not as good compared to the 346, is it too new? 14 000 rpm, is it too much power for a newbie like me? I guess I'm just afraid it will be overkill for my skills and needs but I might be wrong?

That's where I'm at in my thoughts process at this moment. Any advice would be much appreciated. And thanks to this forum , I found so much good information!

Cheers, Jeff
 
If using the saw on a limited basis save that money and get a 545. I've ran both. The 550 is faster not loaded up. In bigger wood it's closer. The 550 makes about .5hp more using crank stuffers and a little different jug setup. Either way get the muffler modded for +/- 20% gains. BTW, you'll never have too much "power" in a 50cc saw.
 
......
545, formerly the 353: It seems to me that its the exact same saw as the 550XP without revboost and it's $120 less.
-Do I need revboost, I'm not in a hurry nor a pro. I'm afraid to feel like somebody that drive a small old car and buy a NASCAR. Most people would just stall it right away... You get my point?
-What I'm concern too is if it's the same engine but without the boost, is it a good thing? Because if you remove the supercharger from a car, it is usually not running well...
-But it seems to fit my bill, on paper anyways, what do you guys think? ....

The 545 isn't just lacking the Revboost - there also are a few other differences, that result in a lower Power output.

The revboost is mainly an advantage for limbing, it matters less with other use.
 
If you develop CAD (Chainsaw Acquisition Disease) then the 545 won't satify your craving, then again neither will the 550xp.

Get the 545, if you develop CAD you'll end up with a 70 or 80+CC saw soon enough. :)
 
I have both a 545 and a 550XP.

The 550XP has a 1000 rpm on the 545 when free running. Not so much difference in the cut.

If you have been using 50cc size saws for a few years including maybe even a 346XP, the 545 is very impressive. The 550XP more so.

After I used them some the mixture adjusting settled down and they are always ready to go.

The chainsaws are small and light weight for such a powerhouse.
 
I have both a 545 and a 550XP.

The 550XP has a 1000 rpm on the 545 when free running. Not so much difference in the cut.

If you have been using 50cc size saws for a few years including maybe even a 346XP, the 545 is very impressive. The 550XP more so.

After I used them some the mixture adjusting settled down and they are always ready to go.

The chainsaws are small and light weight for such a powerhouse.

Agree, but seen as its going to be used for mostly fire wooding than professional logging the 545 is better choice for a little bit less money , I looked at both the 550xp and 545 for a Husqvarna 136 replacement and chose the 545 18" as it was $200 cheaper than the 550xp over here in New Zealand and got a 50cc saw with the latest technology and same power head weight 4.9kg w/o grey paint, I am very pleased with the saw so far.
 
Jeff,

Get yourself a 545 and use the money you saved to get a pair of chaps . The 545 does everything the 550 does, under ideal conditions, just a wee bit slower.

Want to blow the doors off a 550, get a Triple Nickel Beaver Edition.
 
Thank you so much guys for all your point of view, much appreciated!
So after reading all replies I came up with a decision I think.
It seems the 545 would fit my bill and save me money as well, I'll go for that one.

-Someone replied about CAD and I think it is probably true. I think it would be smart getting used with a smaller chainsaw then upgrading for the bigger one. At one point I'll probably feel confident with the 50cc and will want to upgrade for a bigger one and I think having both would be the best way to go anyways (better than having a 20'' on a 50cc). 50cc is a good start. 60-70cc might be the next step, on its time...

-Save the money, buy the 545 and a pair of chaps. I agree it would be smart and that's what I'll do plus I'll get a helmet too.

-I'll try it stock for now, will do a search for the muffler mod in the mean time and after I brake it in I'll do the mod.

Other question that come to my mind now?

-For wood cutting and versatility I'm thinking of a 18'' bar. Would I be ok or better with a 16'' ?
-I see lots of people seems to like the Oregon Pro Lite bar, should I go with that one?
-How about the type of chain, I feel I would like to practice with a low kickback chain to start, any recommendation?

Thank you very much again to everybody that took the time to write me their point of view, I appreciate this.

Cheers, Jeff
 
Other question that come to my mind now?

-For wood cutting and versatility I'm thinking of a 18'' bar. Would I be ok or better with a 16'' ?
-I see lots of people seems to like the Oregon Pro Lite bar, should I go with that one?
-How about the type of chain, I feel I would like to practice with a low kickback chain to start, any recommendation?

Thank you very much again to everybody that took the time to write me their point of view, I appreciate this.

Cheers, Jeff

A 16" bar will allow you to cut a 28" log/tree ++ with skill and finesse.
RSN/replaceable sprocket nose bars have no place on most saws, most users never replace the nose, or decide to replace it one the bar is done failing to realize they need to profile the new nose to the existing bar. Your 545 or what ever will come with a ProLite equivalent.
Realize what kickback is and how to avoid it, all chains come with a certain degree of kickback protection. Realize what is push and what is pull and the reactive consequences.
 
Jeff,

Get yourself a 545 and use the money you saved to get a pair of chaps . The 545 does everything the 550 does, under ideal conditions, just a wee bit slower.

Want to blow the doors off a 550, get a Triple Nickel Beaver Edition.

Smart advice on getting some chaps with the money saved on the 545. Saws are pretty close otherwise.

The triple nickle WHAT edition? :msp_scared:
 
-For wood cutting and versatility I'm thinking of a 18'' bar. Would I be ok or better with a 16'' ?
-I see lots of people seems to like the Oregon Pro Lite bar, should I go with that one?
-How about the type of chain, I feel I would like to practice with a low kickback chain to start, any recommendation?

Thank you very much again to everybody that took the time to write me their point of view, I appreciate this.

Cheers, Jeff

Have the dealer outfit it with a 18" bar and skip the 20". Ignore that bar brand of bar, what ever they put on it will be fine. Just keep your chains sharp, use good mix oil at 40:1, keep the filters clean and keep the chain out of the dirt.
 
I would recommend against using low-kickback.

You need to be careful no matter what you are using and the slower cutting of a low kickback sometimes causes guys to lean into the cut and try to force the saw through quicker... dangerous

Also, keep in mind new saws take awhile to break in so don't buy it and think its a dog. Give it a few tanks to get it where it needs to be.
 
A 16" bar will allow you to cut a 28" log/tree ++ with skill and finesse.
RSN/replaceable sprocket nose bars have no place on most saws, most users never replace the nose, or decide to replace it one the bar is done failing to realize they need to profile the new nose to the existing bar. Your 545 or what ever will come with a ProLite equivalent.
Realize what kickback is and how to avoid it, all chains come with a certain degree of kickback protection. Realize what is push and what is pull and the reactive consequences.

Thanks for your comments! I have to say I was thinking 18'' at first but the more I think about it, maybe 16'' would suit the 50cc better. RE kickback, I'm reading a good book ''Homeowner's complete guide to the chainsaw'' and some youtube videos. I get it now, but I guess it will have to happen once so I know exactly what it is? I wanted to take a small training course but it's $500 for 2 days...no thank you. It's too bad because I'll have to learn on my own, I'll be all by myself there. Thanks again! Jeff
 
Smart advice on getting some chaps with the money saved on the 545. Saws are pretty close otherwise.

The triple nickle WHAT edition? :msp_scared:

I totally agree, smart advice, I'll buy chaps and helmet before I use the new saw for sure.

Triple nickel? I would assume is referring to the 555?
 
Have the dealer outfit it with a 18" bar and skip the 20". Ignore that bar brand of bar, what ever they put on it will be fine. Just keep your chains sharp, use good mix oil at 40:1, keep the filters clean and keep the chain out of the dirt.

Alright, I guess I'll go with whatever they offer me then and I'll keep the chain sharp for sure! Jeff
 
Thanks for your comments! I have to say I was thinking 18'' at first but the more I think about it, maybe 16'' would suit the 50cc better. RE kickback, I'm reading a good book ''Homeowner's complete guide to the chainsaw'' and some youtube videos. I get it now, but I guess it will have to happen once so I know exactly what it is? I wanted to take a small training course but it's $500 for 2 days...no thank you. It's too bad because I'll have to learn on my own, I'll be all by myself there. Thanks again! Jeff

Surely a 16" is better, specially for balance - stay with 16" on a 50cc saw, unless you really need a longer one! ;)
 
I would recommend against using low-kickback.

You need to be careful no matter what you are using and the slower cutting of a low kickback sometimes causes guys to lean into the cut and try to force the saw through quicker... dangerous

Also, keep in mind new saws take awhile to break in so don't buy it and think its a dog. Give it a few tanks to get it where it needs to be.


Alright then, I guess I'm being too careful. I won't pick a low-kickback chain then. Any recommendation for a good chain then?
So if I understand, it's like a new car that needs 5000km to break in. The chainsaw will need 3-5 gas tank or something like that... I won't judge it right of the bat then! Thank you for your time, Jeff
 
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