Help me spend $1000 on freehand milling

[jamieS]

I have a large locust tree that will be professionally taken down later this year. It has a nice straight trunk section that is about 20 feet tall, 22" in diameter at chest height, and about 26" at the base. There is another vertical fork higher in the tree about 16" and 12 feet long. I hate the idea of turning that all into firewood...

I've been looking at freehand milling and I think it's right for me. I have plenty of time to go slow and I think this style puts less of a demand on a saw since only a few teeth are engaged at a time. I have some smaller homeowner electric pruning saws with shorter bars, but I'm not that crazy...

So I'm looking to spend about 1000 on all of the things I would need to be safe for a bigger job like this. Bigger saw, chaps, boots, etc.
If it was your money, how would you allocate it? How much to spend a saw, longer bar, and safety gear? Specific brands/models greatly appreciated!

-jamie

 

[Whiskers]

If you want to save it for lumber why done you just find someone with a portable bandsaw mill. Also, urban trees are known to contain objects that are not good for saw blades of any sort. Which is why most are turned into mulch.

 

[jamieS]

If you want to save it for lumber why done you just find someone with a portable bandsaw mill. Also, urban trees are known to contain objects that are not good for saw blades of any sort. Which is why most are turned into mulch.

Good point and I've reached out to one local milling service... but I think the urban tree problem is going to scare folks away from the tree. I'm willing to take the risks on a chain saw blade, but my hunch is that no one wants to risk a bandsaw blade on this tree.

 

[ElevatorGuy]

Im drooling over all that locust firewood!

 

[buzz sawyer]

Locust is bad enough just bucking into firewood. Ripping lengthwise is going to require some serious chainsaw HP. I'd go for a bandsaw mill. My dad had one cut some years ago. It does make Great planks.

 

[motolife313]

Buy a metal detector from harbor freight.
u can buy a 362 for about 750$ And run a 25” bar might need a 32”. A used 064 or 066 would also work and one is good shape will go for about 500-600$. I got a 064took that pic today

 

[csmillingnoob]

Freehand? As in no mill?

Little if any big saw experience?

color me skeptical

 

[jamieS]

Im drooling over all that locust firewood!

Yeah, I'm looking forward to splitting most of it into some nice hardwood firewood!

 

[jamieS]

Freehand? As in no mill?

Little if any big saw experience?

color me skeptical

Yeah, this is definitely a jump into the deep end of the pool. I'm skeptical, too. My goal is to take my time, learn as I go, see if the milling addiction takes hold... and if it is a total failure, then it's more firewood.

 

[Whiskers]

I’d assume you’d want something in the 90cc range. I don’t know anything about freehand milling though. Seems like a heavy saw to get a cut accurately started. If you thought milling was for you but freehand didn’t get the desired results you could always buy a milling jig and at least have the right saw. With that being said, Chainsaw’s are dangerous and with little experience I’d be very careful wading into swinging around a 90cc saw.

 

[Husky Man]

Yeah, this is definitely a jump into the deep end of the pool. I'm skeptical, too. My goal is to take my time, learn as I go, see if the milling addiction takes hold... and if it is a total failure, then it's more firewood.

Are You familiar with Granberg mills?

A 30” would do it, except for the 26” end, you would likely have to mill from both Top , then flip it and mill from the Top(old bottom) down again, but would be a bit short of milling right through the center

A 36” Granberg with a 36” bar would get you there with about a 28” maximum width cut.. To get the full capacity you need about 6” more bar than the “Rated Size” of the mill, and you will still be about 2.5-3” less between the clamp faces, my 36” maxes out at 33.5”

For a couple hundred dollars, you will get much more efficient utilization of your wood, I think enough to be worth getting a mill, your Wood, Money and Choice though

Doug

 

[csmillingnoob]

Yeah, this is definitely a jump into the deep end of the pool. I'm skeptical, too. My goal is to take my time, learn as I go, see if the milling addiction takes hold... and if it is a total failure, then it's more firewood.

My recommendation on spending $1000.00 to mill:

1. Order a Holzfforma 660 from thechainsawguy. Order through this board, not ebay. It will have been cranked and tested by him for less than $500.00. If you spend @ $525.00 with him you can get the big bore (98cc) that he has worked through thoroughly. You can save money by ordering through Holzfforma directly but I advise against it unless you have small engine mechanic ability because they frequently have small bugs in oil lines, fuel lines, carbs etc.

2. Get a 36' knockoff Granburg Alaskan mill from ebay about $100.00

3. 36" bar $100.00

4. two 36' skip tooth chains $100.00

5. FILE GUIDE: $10.00 to $40.00. Developing your sharpening skills is absolutely critical.

6. Files: $20.00

7 Metal detector: $25.00 from Harbor freight

8. 3 ton floor jack $85.00 Harbor freight. Maybe a two ton will work

9. Cant hook $50.00. Maybe less.

10. some 4x4s to keep log off the ground

11. At least three plastic felling wedges $15.00

Ladder for at least first cut. Hopefully you already own one.

two-stroke oil, oil for gas mix, etc, etc, etc.

$1,000 gonOops:

Ear protection is a must 40.00
Chainsaw gloves 35.00
Chaps $75.00

I always wear ear protection and should wear gloves more often, I rarely use chaps when milling - but use them when not in the mill

 

[jamieS]

I appreciate it csmillingnoob, that's exactly the kind of post I was hoping for!

 

[toadman]

I'd post links, but they don't work here...
a budget Alaskan mill is doable with $1000, I have less than that in my knockoff setup.

I did learn a lesson, and that's to buy a decent bar & chain.
I bought an oregon 42" with ripping chain for $135 on ebay & it's performed very well for the price.
36" would do for your log & should be slightly less $$$.

I frequently mill with a hutzl 660 clone I put together, and it's performed as well as I could ask for.
I also mill with other saw's, a 661 & 394, but the hutzl has done about 1.8-2k board feet by itself with no issues yet.

Chaps are a must.

Hearing protection is a must.
I bought 3M bluetooth NR muffs, and they make it much more pleasant.
I listen to podcasts while milling, but be certain you can still hear the saw a bit. paying attention to motor pitch is critical for keeping the saw happy & healthy while milling.

The first time I milled I watched a video of myself & when I put the saw onto the log I was within a half of an inch from my thigh while kneeling. Chaps.

sharpening is the #1 thing IMO for good results.
There was a steep learning curve where I struggled to get it to bite at all, even under heavy pressure & with a chain that would fly through crosscuts... I used a little $20 ebay winch & still do sometimes if I can't angle the log.
with a sharp chain and the log pointing downhill, basiclly just hold onto the throttle & listen to music while the saw does the work mostly by itself

Pretty much what Csmillingnoob said.

I tried for several years to learn to chainsaw mill freehand, and I'm not saying it's impossible to just jump into it- there are people with crazy knack for these things out there...
Those videos on U tube make it look easy, but it's 100% not in my case.
I have mad respect & skill envy for the guys who can do it freehand
Maybe you're one of the lucky ones & for sure give it a try if you think you can!!
I do have a good eye for level and straight, along with years of saw experience, construction experience, and some fine woodcraft experience, but I can't do freehand milling with any decent results.

 

[motolife313]

I honestly never use ear protection running a saw. I’m not at full rpm much either on my 064. And my mufflers are pretty much stock. If the muffler was opened up I’d probably be wearing some ear plugs but my ears don’t have a problem how I’m doing it now.

 

[jamieS]

I frequently mill with a hutzl 660 clone I put together, and it's performed as well as I could ask for.
I also mill with other saw's, a 661 & 394, but the hutzl has done about 1.8-2k board feet by itself with no issues yet.

Chaps are a must.

Hearing protection is a must.
I bought 3M bluetooth NR muffs, and they make it much more pleasant.
I listen to podcasts while milling, but be certain you can still hear the saw a bit. paying attention to motor pitch is critical for keeping the saw happy & healthy while milling.

The first time I milled I watched a video of myself & when I put the saw onto the log I was within a half of an inch from my thigh while kneeling. Chaps.

sharpening is the #1 thing IMO for good results.
There was a steep learning curve where I struggled to get it to bite at all, even under heavy pressure & with a chain that would fly through crosscuts... I used a little $20 ebay winch & still do sometimes if I can't angle the log.
with a sharp chain and the log pointing downhill, basiclly just hold onto the throttle & listen to music while the saw does the work mostly by itself

Pretty much what Csmillingnoob said.

I tried for several years to learn to chainsaw mill freehand, and I'm not saying it's impossible to just jump into it- there are people with crazy knack for these things out there...
Those videos on U tube make it look easy, but it's 100% not in my case.
I have mad respect & skill envy for the guys who can do it freehand
Maybe you're one of the lucky ones & for sure give it a try if you think you can!!
I do have a good eye for level and straight, along with years of saw experience, construction experience, and some fine woodcraft experience, but I can't do freehand milling with any decent results.

Nice, thanks toadman. I'm already a sharpening fanatic from woodworking and I've been re-reading about chain sharpening, including getting the depth gauges set right.

And thanks for your experiences with freehanding... one thing I'm realizing is that I'm much more likely to be able to create ~1" boards with a mill, whereas I can probably create sloppy 2" boards freehanding which would have to be resawn later if I wanted to use it in casework (as opposed to table tops, etc.)... and resawing has the enevitable challenges with warping again. So your input has definitely got me thinking.

I'm good with hearing protection. I've done too much loud stuff in my life, so got a good arsenal of gear for keeping my ability to hear a whisper into old age.

And I'm definitely hearing "chaps"!

Out of curiosity, where did you buy your hutzl 660 clone?

-j

 

[toadman]

Nice, thanks toadman. I'm already a sharpening fanatic from woodworking and I've been re-reading about chain sharpening, including getting the depth gauges set right.

And thanks for your experiences with freehanding... one thing I'm realizing is that I'm much more likely to be able to create ~1" boards with a mill, whereas I can probably create sloppy 2" boards freehanding which would have to be resawn later if I wanted to use it in casework (as opposed to table tops, etc.)... and resawing has the enevitable challenges with warping again. So your input has definitely got me thinking.

I'm good with hearing protection. I've done too much loud stuff in my life, so got a good arsenal of gear for keeping my ability to hear a whisper into old age.

And I'm definitely hearing "chaps"!

Out of curiosity, where did you buy your hutzl 660 clone?

-j

I actually got my clone half way assembled in a box from a friend who couldn't get it to work, and disassembled it & reassembled it correctly.
There where several things he had done wrong...
it's a standard hutzl kit I assembled "from scratch".
I didn't exchange any parts for another brand, except the rings. I felt better using my trusted brand of piston rings.
Caber, which are standard with the new kits & assembled saws from what I have seen.
I have noted the blue saws I have used have several improvements over mine...
the casting is better, and the overall quality control is better now than it was when I got mine IMO.

I ordered another assembled clone on Ebay recently and it hasn't arrived yet, but I will gladly give my impression of it when it does!!!

 

[jamieS]

I ordered another assembled clone on Ebay recently and it hasn't arrived yet, but I will gladly give my impression of it when it does!!!

Looking forward to that!

 

[csmillingnoob]

I honestly never use ear protection running a saw. I’m not at full rpm much either on my 064. And my mufflers are pretty much stock. If the muffler was opened up I’d probably be wearing some ear plugs but my ears don’t have a problem how I’m doing it now.

wear it.

wjen you reach my age you’ll be glad. Modern man constantly abuses his ears. A chainsaw is a bridge too far. And I hate air compressors!

 

[motolife313]

I know my body pretty good. I used to wear them everyday at work because they used impacted hammers to river box truck body’s together, that was a must for me to have them in there. I appreciate the advice. I see what my ears think next time I’m running it. Was running it today with out the screen in the filter and it was a little annoying. We’re taking a little 171 tho with a pip squeak engine