Help tuning echo cs-400

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I dont have a way to weld the muffler back together so I was going to plan B with the holes like you said. I'm wondering if you make a big enough bypass path around the cat, is there any advantage to getting the cat out? Are there other baffles you cant see that need drilled out also? I think I can get the cat out without splitting the muff but we're talking hours vs minutes. Thanks in advance!

it may be worth taking it apart,,gutting it and pay a welder 10 bucks to weld it back together,, i have done that myself
 
I just drilled mine out on my 400 . Took it off first of course. Home I did it right. I could always go buy another muffler I suppose. But I just drilled straight through the damn thing . . . is that right or no? I also got my high and low caps removed. This is the first time I've done this.
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I just drilled mine out on my 400 . Took it off first of course. Home I did it right. I could always go buy another muffler I suppose. But I just drilled straight through the damn thing . . . is that right or no? I also got my high and low caps removed. This is the first time I've done this.
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I've never muff modded a 400 but it seems you can go bigger on the hole you drillled. Once you get the muffler modded to where you like it, richen the Hi speed(counterclockwise) a bit and see how it runs.
Bob
 
i have done a bunch of these and 370's,,, take the muffler off and take out the honey comb thats inside,, thats the cat,,, open up the exit port as much as possible under the deflector,,, then pull the limiters off of the carb so you can adjust it properly,, all of this is easy and it will make the saw run a lot better

That right there is what is needed to take a standard Echo to something pretty decent at a very affordable price.
 
That right there is what is needed to take a standard Echo to something pretty decent at a very affordable price.

Nicely said !!
My tiny ECHO 330 EVL was collecting dust because I couldnt stand using it .... untill I took care of the muffler & gave it a good carb tune
 
I just used mine today after that muffler mod and richening it up on that H adjustment. I really like it as it wraps up nice with hire rpm and doesn't seem to bog down out of that yet cutting through some evergreen crap. I need to take some logs off my next tree jobs to start fine tuning this thing and my other saws to fallow if I'm brave enough to touch them the same.

Anyone ever just leave the plastic caps off the H and L? I'm thinking I'd like to just leave the damn things off; but, you know how these echos vibrate so damn hard you got to wonder if the H and L adjustment will move around on you without the caps on.
 
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I've never muff modded a 400 but it seems you can go bigger on the hole you drillled. Once you get the muffler modded to where you like it, richen the Hi speed(counterclockwise) a bit and see how it runs.
Bob


Yeah I did man. major plus! I need a bigger bit maybe for the muffler but I'm kinda iffy about it: for reason; LIke a vw bug : not having the exaust on right could cause cracks on inside engine parts when the cold air gets close enough to hot running stuff. With that said . . I still don't know what I'm getting into with the muffler mods besides just sticking a drill bit through the thing which is a part of something I paid over 300 bucks for new. HAHAHA time to start looking for good used saws to do this stuff with mabye . . .
 
What exactly is rich and what is lean and how do I get from one to the other also how will I know when I'm right on the money?

If you can't get it by listening, another way is to get a small tachometer, you can see Scott using it in the video, and use the tachometer and the high jet to tune it to a specific RPM at wide open throttle. You have to approach it slowly from below as your saw may have a RPM limited coil which could confuse the tach, but if you modded the muffler, and tach tuned it to around 13,500, you would probably not be off by too much
 
I am a newb to this site and I have found it to be a wealth of great info for a chainsaw green horn. Just got my feet wet with a cs 400. It's a great lil saw, but I've got that muffler mod/remove carb limiter bugs. Any one in Portland Oregon that would like that task, I'd greatly appreciate it.
 
Anyone ever just leave the plastic caps off the H and L? I'm thinking I'd like to just leave the damn things off; but, you know how these echos vibrate so damn hard you got to wonder if the H and L adjustment will move around on you without the caps on.
Yeah, all three of my Echos vibrated so much that the Cat and the Caps fell right off em. They've run great ever since!
 
It sure will I've done some research on the 91VXL and you can't ask for a better loop on your bar. You get twice the cutting done in half the time plus it hold it's edge satisfyingly long. It sharpens with a 5/32" FILE or a 1/8"GRINDING WHEEL. 62 drive links will fit it just right too.

I see a different versions available with varying numbers of links... how many links would I need for a 16" bar on this saw?
 
After the Mod's (Muff and Limiters) what should i set the Low and Max RPM at?

I am putting a Tach on it and only getting 6500? might be doing something wrong... because it cuts great and sounds great.
 
I am an idiot... I had the tack set at every other revolution...... so i am getting over 13000, so i will dial it down.

Chris
 

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