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Help with MS290

jtrafidlo

jtrafidlo

New Member
Joined
Nov 17, 2019
Messages
3
Age
42
Location
PA
I have a MS290 that i use on my property to fell trees and cut them up for firewood. I am currently running a 18" bar that is .325 with a non safety chain. I've had the saw for probably 8 years and I recently did the porting mod to the muffler that I found online. It does feel much stronger than it did prior but i'm still looking for more.

I think I'd like to run a 3/8" bar and chain and a 7 tooth sprocket or rim

I'm not sure if my terminology is correct but I need come suggestions on a setup please.
 
mbrick

mbrick

ArboristSite Operative
Joined
May 13, 2014
Messages
412
Why do you want to move from .325 to 3/8? What type of chain are you running? A lot of variables, but I would not expect the 3/8 to cut faster.

Wider kerf on the 3/8, and less links per given bar size with the larger pitch. So assuming chain speed is maxed out, the smaller chain would remove more wood faster.

On smaller sized non hardwood (say 10" cedar rounds) I find that my 50cc saw with a .325 21LPX seems to cut faster than my 60cc with a 3/8 72LGX. I haven't timed it, but the .325 does well. These are both full chisel but the 21LPX also stays sharp better. I have not tried the new 3/8 72EXL.

With a 56cc saw you're right in the middle but I would suggest staying with 325 pitch.

As @cus_deluxe said, a frequently well sharpened chain will help more. I sharpen every tank, 2-3 file strokes is all it takes.
 
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Brushwacker

Brushwacker

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Jun 24, 2006
Messages
3,478
Location
Medaryville, IN USA
I have a MS290 that i use on my property to fell trees and cut them up for firewood. I am currently running a 18" bar that is .325 with a non safety chain. I've had the saw for probably 8 years and I recently did the porting mod to the muffler that I found online. It does feel much stronger than it did prior but i'm still looking for more.

I think I'd like to run a 3/8" bar and chain and a 7 tooth sprocket or rim

I'm not sure if my terminology is correct but I need come suggestions on a setup please.
It should do well with 16inch 3/8. Not going to gain power but i find it quicker filing the chain and honestly when cost effective prefer the 16inch 3/8 set up on 50ish cc but i am not finicky. Longer bars you'd be better powered with .325 with the 7 tooth sprocket.
 
Marine5068

Marine5068

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Nov 20, 2009
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1,944
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Madoc, Ontario, Canada
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naturalsculptures.webs.com
I have a MS290 that i use on my property to fell trees and cut them up for firewood. I am currently running a 18" bar that is .325 with a non safety chain. I've had the saw for probably 8 years and I recently did the porting mod to the muffler that I found online. It does feel much stronger than it did prior but i'm still looking for more.

I think I'd like to run a 3/8" bar and chain and a 7 tooth sprocket or rim

I'm not sure if my terminology is correct but I need come suggestions on a setup please.
We have a chainsaw thread to post all questions on.
 
bfrazee

bfrazee

Xforget
Joined
Feb 2, 2020
Messages
3
Age
57
Location
Glendale, AZ
Why do you want to move from .325 to 3/8? What type of chain are you running? A lot of variables, but I would not expect the 3/8 to cut faster.

Wider kerf on the 3/8, and less links per given bar size with the larger pitch. So assuming chain speed is maxed out, the smaller chain would remove more wood faster.

On smaller sized non hardwood (say 10" cedar rounds) I find that my 50cc saw with a .325 21LPX seems to cut faster than my 60cc with a 3/8 72LGX. I haven't timed it, but the .325 does well. These are both full chisel but the 21LPX also stays sharp better. I have not tried the new 3/8 72EXL.

With a 56cc saw you're right in the middle but I would suggest staying with 325 pitch.

As @cus_deluxe said, a frequently well sharpened chain will help more. I sharpen every tank, 2-3 file strokes is all it takes.
I'm new to this site. I don't know if I'm doing this correctly, but need to ask a question. I have a MS290 (purchased 2006) It has a 20 inch bar. It has an 8 tooth sprocket. I replaced the clutch, but the drum/sprocket they sent me with the clutch is a 7 tooth. I kept the original 8 tooth sprocket because the new chain I have won't work with a 7 tooth chain. The new chain has no numbers on it. I would like to use the new 7 tooth drum/sprocket because the original is worn out. The saw has a lot of use, so all the numbers on the bar are worn off. I read all the stuff about pitch, gauge, etc. I am cutting a very large mesquite tree down. I would like to get a recommendation for which chain to buy (numbers, etc). Any help is appreciated. Thanks.
 
farmer steve

farmer steve

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Joined
Feb 8, 2013
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17,277
Age
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Location
Stihl, PA
I'm new to this site. I don't know if I'm doing this correctly, but need to ask a question. I have a MS290 (purchased 2006) It has a 20 inch bar. It has an 8 tooth sprocket. I replaced the clutch, but the drum/sprocket they sent me with the clutch is a 7 tooth. I kept the original 8 tooth sprocket because the new chain I have won't work with a 7 tooth chain. The new chain has no numbers on it. I would like to use the new 7 tooth drum/sprocket because the original is worn out. The saw has a lot of use, so all the numbers on the bar are worn off. I read all the stuff about pitch, gauge, etc. I am cutting a very large mesquite tree down. I would like to get a recommendation for which chain to buy (numbers, etc). Any help is appreciated. Thanks.
What brand of chain so you have? There should be #'s stamped on the drive links. That will help us determine what size chain. Also what size sprocket did you buy? Pics of the new sprocket will help.
 
Brushwacker

Brushwacker

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Jun 24, 2006
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Location
Medaryville, IN USA
I'm new to this site. I don't know if I'm doing this correctly, but need to ask a question. I have a MS290 (purchased 2006) It has a 20 inch bar. It has an 8 tooth sprocket. I replaced the clutch, but the drum/sprocket they sent me with the clutch is a 7 tooth. I kept the original 8 tooth sprocket because the new chain I have won't work with a 7 tooth chain. The new chain has no numbers on it. I would like to use the new 7 tooth drum/sprocket because the original is worn out. The saw has a lot of use, so all the numbers on the bar are worn off. I read all the stuff about pitch, gauge, etc. I am cutting a very large mesquite tree down. I would like to get a recommendation for which chain to buy (numbers, etc). Any help is appreciated. Thanks.
My first guess is the reason the chain will not work with the sprocket is different pitches, perhaps u got a 3/8 pitch 7 tooth sprocket and tried using the original. 325 pitch chain or its a .325 pitch sprocket and you got an 3/8 pitch chain.
Your original is 81 drive link .325 pitch chain, normally is .063 gauge ( bar groove width) and your sprocket should be .325 pitch also , could be either 7 or 8, 7 is usually preferred for a 20in bar for power.
If it were converted to 3/8 pitch a 20in bar would be .050 gauge with a 72 drive link chain, rarely if ever with an 8 tooth sprocket, 7 with 3/8 is all stihl offers to use on a 290 to my knowledge but i expect aftermarket parts can be different.
If you been running the new chain on an old sprocket it will cause the chain to stretch quickly. Things will wear and work smoother and stronger if you start a new chain and sprocket together at the same time.
 
bfrazee

bfrazee

Xforget
Joined
Feb 2, 2020
Messages
3
Age
57
Location
Glendale, AZ
Thank you for your input about this. I appreciate it. I got this saw, in Carolina in 2006. I did nothing except keep the chain sharpened. All the parts were original, until the sprocket got deep grooves in it. Check out these pictures. I just got the box for replacement parts, and the box was empty. Unbelievable!!!!!!!!!
 

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