HF Chain Grinder Thread

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Philbert

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The purpose of this thread is to discuss pros and cons, tips and techniques, hacks and mods, for using the inexpensive ($30 - $60), plastic body, saw chain grinders, such as the type sold by Harbor Freight ('HF'), on eBay, etc.

*** This thread is NOT to tell people to learn how to file, or to buy a $300 grinder.***
(If you want to do that, please go start your own thread)

I don't want to be a grinder snob. I own and use a more expensive grinder, and have walked past these many times, being critical of them based on appearance, etc., without trying one. A few members have posted that they get satisfactory results with these. So, when one became available on the 'Xmas Giving' thread, I decided to give it a fair trial (Thank You!).

Please post your personal experiences with these types of grinders, regardless of brand or model. Especially, any tips that might help others get better results. Maybe we can have some fun with this, like the $30 Earthquake chainsaw thread!

Philbert
 
Videos - 1

Instruction manuals for most grinders are pretty poor. Here are some YouTube videos on using the HF type grinders. I do not endorse everything they say, but they are helpful to see how they go together, what the different parts do, and generally how they work.

Philbert

Chicago Electric Chain Grinder* You Tube Videos
(*with Bicycle brake lever style vice clamp)

Setting up the Chicago Electric Chainsaw Sharpener (funbro1 a.k.a 'How To Bob' 2:33)


Sharpening a Chain Saw Chain (funbro1 a.k.a 'How To Bob' 6:01)
 
Videos - 2

Harbor Freight Chain Saw Sharpener (Tool Dude Tony 5:32)


How to Sharpen a Chain Saw with the Harbor Freight Sharpener (Tool Dude Tony 9:45)


Disclaimers: Tony uses some interesting terminology (refers to individual cutters or teeth as 'blades'). He also grinds deeper and faster than I would - looks like he is burning cutters (appears to be chrome damage on top plates). But good demonstration of setting up the grinder and what settings and adjustments are available.

Philbert
 
Videos - 3

Some others show different models. I skipped some that are 25 - 50 minutes long without saying much more!

My Chainsaw Sharpener (wtbm123 15:39)


Lever style vise clamp model, but pretty good narrative. Confuses semi-chisel chain with 'safety chain' (reduced kickback chain).

Philbert
 
I've been fooling with the HF grinder that I got in a trade two years ago.. It will sharpen a chain. A file makes a better edge but the grinder get's used for really damaged chains or for truing one that's been filed poorly. Mine is the old model, without the bike brake chain holder...

Mine has some side-to-side play in the hinge. While in the down position I can push it to cut more or less off of the tooth. That's just something to keep in mind while using it.

Also, I'm not sure why, but whenever I flip the chain to grind the other side, the depth gauge gets completely out of whack.. To remedy this I will measure each tooth with a caliper and adjust it by trail and error. However, because of the play in the hinge and the depth gauge design, I have gotten tooth length variances as high as +/- 1mm. That's good enough for firewood though.
 
I have owned and used two different models of HF chain grinders. I will say that the bicycle brake type is pretty poor in my opinion and I think if the brake handle could be moved to be independent of the moving part of the grinder, it would work better...
The kind of HF grinder (apparently previous model) that just has a manual clamp and a little tab you move the housing with works pretty decent.
I do concur with a previous poster that when you switch the grinder from one side to the other there is poor consistency and you have to set it up for the teeth on that side of the chain. (it will grind a different angle and depth.
 
Photos of my Chicago Electric 'hand brake' model for reference.

This is the one I received in the 'Christmas Giving' thread. I added a wood base so that I can clamp the grinder down when needed and move it. I like to grind out doors to keep the dust out of my shop.
I also noted a lot of grit embedded in the plastic post, behind the vise, even though this grinder had not been used much. So I cleaned this area and wrapped it with with a piece of aluminum duct sealing tape. This worked on other chain grinders to make clean up easier.

I went around the grinder and just snugged up any potentially loose fasteners, and already cracked the bicycle grip holder slightly. This would be an easy part to fix if it breaks further, but be careful. This is a light duty item.

Philbert

photo 5.jpg
Front

photo 2.jpg
Right Side

photo 4.jpg
Rear

photo 3.jpg
Left Side

photo 1.jpg
Base
 
Some Questions for the Experienced Users

- Do you dress these grinding wheels? This is an important issue with the larger grinders, to shape/profile the wheel and expose fresh abrasive. The HF Instruction Manual does not mention it. I have a dressing stone from my other grinders that I can use for this.

- Does the 1/8" wheel work on larger cutters? This is the only wheel sold for these grinders. Do they do an acceptable job on full sized 3/8 pitch chains? Do you do the larger chains in multiple passes, has anyone found or tried mounting a thicker (3/16") wheel?

- Several people have said that they 'work with' the flex in the unit to finely position the grinding head relative to the cutter. Is this standard practice?

Thanks.

Philbert
 
it dont have much poop, even if a bigger stone fit, it dont pull the little one very hard.
but i used mine to fix a couple big 3/8 rocked chains. I just back the chain with my figers
away from the cutters to clean out the gullet some. i finish them with a file
it does some work I would like a real nice one some day :)
 
I want to try some lo pro 3/8 on it i think it will work better... i did a couple nice chains, but it takes attn to detail
and starting conservitive with adjustments ... did i say attn to detail thats the key
 
The number one biggest improvement I made to my HF grinder (just like yours philbert) was to make an arbor adapter to run worn out wheels from my local dealers franzen grinder. The fine grit wheel that HF sell for these burns the crap out of everything. I also cut and tacked back on the little brake holder tab to hold the chain better.

My pap sharpened hundreds of chains from new to shot on his original orange version. It was equally crappy, but with a little care, worked fine.
 
The number one biggest improvement I made to my HF grinder (just like yours philbert) was to make an arbor adapter to run worn out wheels from my local dealers franzen grinder. The fine grit wheel that HF sell for these burns the crap out of everything. I also cut and tacked back on the little brake holder tab to hold the chain better.

My pap sharpened hundreds of chains from new to shot on his original orange version. It was equally crappy, but with a little care, worked fine.
can you buy a better wheel for them ???
 
I'll get some... It's out in the shop... And it's dark and cold.

As for buying them, they are too big when new. Worn out ones fit the HF unit. They are much coarser than the HF disk and don't burn the tooth.
 
can you buy a better wheel for them ???
So . . . . I was wondering . . . . if these types of wheels would work:
Screen shot 2014-12-13 at 10.57.53 PM.png
4-1/2 inch diameter, 7/8" arbor hole, metal cutting, rated for 13,000+ RPM, available in different thicknesses, and different grits, 5 for $5.49 ($1.10 each) . . . . .

Remind me of the resinoid wheels I tried in another thread http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/resinoid-grinder-wheels.256733/.
Anybody tried them on these grinders? Any concerns about using these on a 4200 RPM grinder?

(EDIT: *** I have since learned that other, more suitable wheels are available for these grinders***)
 

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