That looks like a worthwhile mod for my 'Nick'. Provided it's cheap![emoji12]
HF Chain Grinder Thread
- Thread starter Philbert
- Start date
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xPosTech
ArboristSite Lurker
Many different styles/colors on Amazon. Most under five bucks.
I think wally world has them, too.
Ted
I scanned through most of this thread last night (!), and most of the responses have been fairly consistent.
These grinders can be convenient for light, touch-up type sharpening, and may meet the needs for some users who don't want or can't afford a larger, more expensive grinder. They are not for everyone.
The simpler models are better.
I also noticed several comments I made about the grinding wheels:
- There are big differences between wheels, and most of these grinders would benefit from better quality grinding wheels (Molemab, Oregon, etc.).
- The ability to mount a 3/16 inch wheel is important, in my mind, if you are sharpening larger pitch chains.
- Changing wheels is not as convenient on these grinders as on full-size grinders. They may be better suited for people who only use one size wheel, or who are willing to have separate, cheap, mini-grinders for different size wheels.
Philbert
These grinders can be convenient for light, touch-up type sharpening, and may meet the needs for some users who don't want or can't afford a larger, more expensive grinder. They are not for everyone.
The simpler models are better.
I also noticed several comments I made about the grinding wheels:
- There are big differences between wheels, and most of these grinders would benefit from better quality grinding wheels (Molemab, Oregon, etc.).
- The ability to mount a 3/16 inch wheel is important, in my mind, if you are sharpening larger pitch chains.
- Changing wheels is not as convenient on these grinders as on full-size grinders. They may be better suited for people who only use one size wheel, or who are willing to have separate, cheap, mini-grinders for different size wheels.
Philbert
Just thought l'd ask here about sharpening attachments for the 511series style grinders. l know stihl offers an attachment for sharpening hedgetrimmer blades on their grinders. l have a 511 oregon copy and would love to be able to do hedgetrimmer blades for several hedgetrimmers l have. At the moment l dissmantle blades and use a stone on die grinder or by hand with raker file. To do a good job l have found usually a fair amount of metal needs to be taken off to return the sharpening edge back. Being able to use the chainsaw grinder would be fantastic, so anyone know of anything availible on the retail market? Thanks.
Best to post this in one of the 511A threads (see a list in Post#2 of this thread). I know that Tecomec made an attachment for hedge trimmers, but the only guy I knew who used it did not like it. That is not a fair assessment of it, but you might be able to track one down.
Philbert
Re Wheel wobble, my $55 ebay model is quite well made, metal base/arm. When checking the rotation of the wheel after it is fitted & the grub screw tightened it has quite a wobble up, maybe close to 1mm or so. This means that with the motor turned on only part of the wheel contacts the tooth being sharpened.
Moving the wheel by hand no slackness can be detected in any direction.
Thinking it may have been the original 3/16" wheel I have just bough a new $15 wheel with no improvement.
Anyone got any clues as to how to get it running true, its got me beat ?
xPosTech
ArboristSite Lurker
Doesn't sound good. I would suspect a bent armature in the motor. Or at least one not running true. Not easy to fix unless you're comfortable working on small motors. Could also be a bad bearing or maybe debris where wheel mounts.
If it's the armature shaft a starter/generator shop could true it up but the cost might cost more than the grinder.
You could try truing the mount. Remove the wheel and lightly sand the wheel mount surface - pulse the motor so rpms don't get too high while sanding. For the other side of the mount place the sandpaper on a piece of glass or other level material. Sand both very lightly - inspect frequently. You should be able to see an totally even surface on both.
Note that if they were machined unevenly the sanding won't help. If it's a new grinder I would try getting the seller to replace it before attempting truing the armature or wheel mount.
Whatever you do, good luck with it. As I said, best thing would be replacement.
Ted
If it's the armature shaft a starter/generator shop could true it up but the cost might cost more than the grinder.
You could try truing the mount. Remove the wheel and lightly sand the wheel mount surface - pulse the motor so rpms don't get too high while sanding. For the other side of the mount place the sandpaper on a piece of glass or other level material. Sand both very lightly - inspect frequently. You should be able to see an totally even surface on both.
Note that if they were machined unevenly the sanding won't help. If it's a new grinder I would try getting the seller to replace it before attempting truing the armature or wheel mount.
Whatever you do, good luck with it. As I said, best thing would be replacement.
Ted
xPosTech
ArboristSite Lurker
Sounds like a bent armature or poorly machined wheel adapters/arbors or bad bearing. Or even debris on arbor.
If arbor is dirty/debris then lightly sanding might work. For the outside adapter try sandpaper on a pane of glass. Place adapter face down and sand lightly. Inspect often - you should see a totally even surface. For the inside, hold the sandpaper lightly against the surface and pulse the motor to keep the rpms down.
If it's the armature shaft a starter/generator shop could true it but cost might be prohibitive.
If it's a new grinder I would try getting the seller to replace it.
Whatever you do good luck. Let us know how it comes out.
Ted
If arbor is dirty/debris then lightly sanding might work. For the outside adapter try sandpaper on a pane of glass. Place adapter face down and sand lightly. Inspect often - you should see a totally even surface. For the inside, hold the sandpaper lightly against the surface and pulse the motor to keep the rpms down.
If it's the armature shaft a starter/generator shop could true it but cost might be prohibitive.
If it's a new grinder I would try getting the seller to replace it.
Whatever you do good luck. Let us know how it comes out.
Ted
If you remove the grinding wheel, you can check the shaft for wobble with a dial indicator. Lacking that, you can try to mount a piece of wire, or something, close to the arbor, and slowly turn the motor by hand, to see if any wobble is detectable.
EDIT: Good point on taking it back, if the arbor is messed up, and it's still pretty new. Good reason to keep your receipts. The 'modest' quality control/assurance on these puts the 'cheap' in 'cheap grinders'!
Dressing the wheel is easier. But sometimes, re-mounting the wheel will make a difference, due to an imperfection where it seats up against the flange. That should be tried first.
If the wheel is mounted and running, you can hold a dressing stone or brick against the rim to true/round the wheel.
Philbert
EDIT: Good point on taking it back, if the arbor is messed up, and it's still pretty new. Good reason to keep your receipts. The 'modest' quality control/assurance on these puts the 'cheap' in 'cheap grinders'!
Dressing the wheel is easier. But sometimes, re-mounting the wheel will make a difference, due to an imperfection where it seats up against the flange. That should be tried first.
If the wheel is mounted and running, you can hold a dressing stone or brick against the rim to true/round the wheel.
Philbert
Well past return time, haven't used it for >12 months and just bought the new wheel to get it working again.
Back to hand filing which has stood me in good stead for many decades I guess.
Good points re remedying the problem gents, I will have a play round and see what I can work out although I feel it is just
cheap junk I have bought.........should have spend the $$'s in the first place.
Thanks again
Back to hand filing which has stood me in good stead for many decades I guess.
Good points re remedying the problem gents, I will have a play round and see what I can work out although I feel it is just
cheap junk I have bought.........should have spend the $$'s in the first place.
Thanks again
xPosTech
ArboristSite Lurker
My apologies for the double post above. I had thought the ether had eaten the first one: I couldn't find it after posting. Even after posting the second and refreshing the thread I saw only the second.
I suspect my Cyanogen-Modded B&N Nook tablet was trying to sabotage me. I sometimes get some weird symptoms on this thing. :-(
Ted
I suspect my Cyanogen-Modded B&N Nook tablet was trying to sabotage me. I sometimes get some weird symptoms on this thing. :-(
Ted
I have troubles posting from my phone. Might start an 'HF cell phone' thread . . . .
Philbert
Philbert
Heh! I'm stuck with Sprint 'noservice'.
Times out on lots of pictures.[emoji37]
Times out on lots of pictures.[emoji37]
xPosTech
ArboristSite Lurker
It's a primitive tablet - no cell phone radio. It does have wifi so I can get online when my HughesNet thinks I am behaving and wants to reward me.
I have lots of power outages, so many I'm considering a standby Generac. I have a 5 KW generator, mainly for hurricanes, but I have to shell it outside and connect it manually.
No natural gas service here. I'm in the sticks on Lake Sam Rayburn. I would have to get propane service. Another expense so I've been waffling about it.
Heh it's a nook but I have Kindle s/w on it. It's what I grab when power's out. No lamp needed when reading.
Sorry I got off topic.
Ted
Edit: I'm so far out I only get 1G or nothing.
I have lots of power outages, so many I'm considering a standby Generac. I have a 5 KW generator, mainly for hurricanes, but I have to shell it outside and connect it manually.
No natural gas service here. I'm in the sticks on Lake Sam Rayburn. I would have to get propane service. Another expense so I've been waffling about it.
Heh it's a nook but I have Kindle s/w on it. It's what I grab when power's out. No lamp needed when reading.
Sorry I got off topic.
Ted
Edit: I'm so far out I only get 1G or nothing.
Some related comments:
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/cheap-cahin-saw-sharpener.291327/
Philbert
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/cheap-cahin-saw-sharpener.291327/
Philbert
N.O.S. on CL
They are so cute. Hard to pass up at garage sales, or on CL.
I just hope that the arbor sizes are consistent, so that I can use the same MoleMab wheels, and post the other mini-grinders on CL.
Philbert
They are so cute. Hard to pass up at garage sales, or on CL.
I just hope that the arbor sizes are consistent, so that I can use the same MoleMab wheels, and post the other mini-grinders on CL.
Philbert
LegDeLimber
Addicted to ArboristSite
looks like grounds for another chapter in the grinders files!
What materials are the frame and vice, adjuster arm, etc made of?
What materials are the frame and vice, adjuster arm, etc made of?
Mostly plastic and sheet metal! But the design is pretty simple, compared to the newer, 'bicycle hand grip' style.
Philbert
Just recieved a grinding wheel for my old 'Nick the Grinder'. 4 1/4" dia X 3/16" thick.
Bore measures .916" diameter. Way oversize for the nominal "7/8'" (.875).
Evilbay seller may get dinged over this.
Bore measures .916" diameter. Way oversize for the nominal "7/8'" (.875).
Evilbay seller may get dinged over this.
Fortunately I had a swatch of sheet copper .015" thick. Cut a strip 3/16" wide for a shim. Still vibrates more than I like but it's usable.
