High Limb Rope Chain Saw

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
You sure you're not over-smoking, Smokey?? Lol.. :msp_scared: :p..

That's a good one you know the funny thing is I have never smoked a day in my life I was called smoky in the Boy Scouts because I was like Smokey the bear and I would put out the campfire you figure that one out.
 
Training young trees>3 limbs tightly appressed and the one in the middle is pruned out.
You can do it easily with a wire saw and not damage the neighbouring limbs. Chain on rope never used one and probabley never will but if there is a chance to use in an emergency and keep out of harms way and not damage my $10000 pwr tele saw or 300 manual pole saw it would be most welcome addition to the team.
Vehicles, chainsaws, ladders, alcohol etc etc are they being pulled due to operator error?

You have a $10,000 pole saw?
 
Well, its apparent this thing may have legs, off to 101 it goes

That seems important to you, and yet it took 120+ responses to get 3 good ones, and you have nothing to say to that, now that says something.
 
Last edited:
I cant believe this thread is still going. Smoky before you start a thread about knots, use the search function. There is already multiple threads on knots.

And notice it is NOT about HOW to tie a not, it is WHAT knot to use and NOT to use. This is difficult to find in the books on knots, so this is where you come in, or should, and help all us new guys with your experience. Stuff like only cinching knots should be used to tie at the bridge of your saddle and then which of those do you use and why. Perhaps what to use if your rope is wet. Does temperature effect your knots. What kind of stopper knots or other safety and backup knots.
How about sharing some of you good and bad experience with knots.
Then guys can search for the HOW to tie a knot.
 
And notice it is NOT about HOW to tie a not, it is WHAT knot to use and NOT to use. This is difficult to find in the books on knots, so this is where you come in, or should, and help all us new guys with your experience. Stuff like only cinching knots should be used to tie at the bridge of your saddle and then which of those do you use and why. Perhaps what to use if your rope is wet. Does temperature effect your knots. What kind of stopper knots or other safety and backup knots.
How about sharing some of you good and bad experience with knots.
Then guys can search for the HOW to tie a knot.

How about this piece of advise!

GET A MENTOR!
 
I noticed that this thread is close to 2700 views and over 130 replays with only a few very useful, so I though it helpful just to summarize the contributions of a few in one replay so you don't have to read it all to figure what was said. Although I have to say the comments that can be read at replies 33 and 35 are pretty entertaining.
I think it can be said that the wire saw may have some use, but the "chainsaw on a rope" is extremely limited to a group that already has access to most to the tree’s canopy. Besides, it is evidently very offensive to ones "macho" to have something like this in your tool bag.
I purchased one to experiment with and agree with the posts below and in this thread, with the exception of putting it around my neck. :rolleyes2:

Has anyone used one of these? Seems like it could be very helpful for hard to reach or dangerous to reach limbs and dead wood. The 24 inch version could easily be carried in a ditty bag and used with your throw line.

View attachment 253322
http://www.northerntool.com/images/product/images/15016_lg.jpg
Training young trees>3 limbs tightly appressed and the one in the middle is pruned out.
You can do it easily with a wire saw and not damage the neighboring limbs. Chain on rope never used one and probably never will but if there is a chance to use in an emergency and keep out of harms way and not damage my $1000 pwr tele saw or 300 manual pole saw it would be most welcome addition to the team.
Vehicles, chainsaws, ladders, alcohol etc etc are they being pulled due to operator error?
I have one and use from time to time. Obviously one of the tricks is to actually get it over the limb you want and still able to saw. I also tie in handles at the appropriate height once installed and it makes it easier. One drawback is there is no good way to undercut the limb for a good break so it will tear and pull too.

They work but with some limitations.
Getting the saw over the correct branch helps.
The weight that keeps the teeth in contact with the branch doesn't always.
The farther apart the ends are, the better, for me it's a two man operation.
Just like a misery-whip, you only have to pull, cutting a eight inch Oak branch is a workout.
Ripping the bark is common but on dead wood who cares.
getting it stuck in the cut is always possible, my neighbor has one stuck in the tree after he broke the rope.
He used his tractor to unstick the jammed saw.
 
Here is another potential.
Have a tree to dismantle or limb to remove if two people can get in a position to
operate it from a safe distance alternating pull strokes.
Instead of one man having to weild a pwr tele or excessively long manual pole saw from a distance.
from man in tree to tree being cut to anothe rman in tree Or tree being cut to groundman.
I see its potential with the scaredy cat factor on high.

Once a month I experience this with a hazardous tree needing reduction.
 
I have used a rope saw off and on for about 15 years. I went to some dealers and looked at their selection which turned into two models. After studying them I went home and made my own out of about 30'' of 3/8 micro chain. Basically welded a chain loop at each end of the chain and then tied 100' of 3/8'' climbing line on each end. It worked OK for limbs up to 6''. Not perfect , but got the job done. I kept thinking one of these days It will need some fine tuning. Now I am facing a Oak tree that is leaning over a fence that with a 1' limb that is leaning 20' past the fence. Last week spent several hours trying to use my limb saw, but it kept getting stuck. Even with all my weight on the lines it will not budge. So went back to the commercial made limb saws only to find they are poorly made and they are only recommended for limbs up to 6''. Climbing the tree seems like suicide at this moment. I have some 10,000 lb line to pull the tree over. If I max out 4 2,000 lb come alongs it still appears that it may not fall up hill away from the fence with out taking at least one of the limbs that is hanging over the fence. Does any body have any experience with limb saws?
 
I have used one. They work ok for the occasional small limb removal jobs, but they are hand work and slow. The chain is kept in the cut by pulling back and forth on the opposite rope ends of the chain. They work better with two people, one on each rope end.
The hardest part is usually getting the rope end and saw chain over the limb and in position for the cut.
chain saw review
 
I have cut limbs that are a foot across. No it is not super easy, but what are the options. Climbing is not always easy or safe. I have to remove two limbs that are about 40' apart. The limbs are about 80' high going mostly horizontal and about 1' across. It will take all day I am sure. All that I can think of sharpen the rope saw and whittle away Thanks
 
I have used one. They work ok for the occasional small limb removal jobs, but they are hand work and slow. The chain is kept in the cut by pulling back and forth on the opposite rope ends of the chain. They work better with two people, one on each rope end.
The hardest part is usually getting the rope end and saw chain over the limb and in position for the cut.
chain saw review

A sling shot or cross bow can scale a 100' pretty easy. Thanks
 
An old resurrection as alternate to saw:

Out in the hinterlands, a 7 mm magnum will take down a 4" DF limb with one shot.
One time even took down a 12" dia alder leaner with about 7 shots from 30-30. :surprised3:
 
Back
Top