Homelite Chainsaws

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pull the muffler on the xl-12 and check the piston/cylinder for damage. pulling the muffler on the 360 involves taking half of the saw apart.
Check the intake boot on that 360, and the av rubber. Mine had turned to goo. Parts are pretty widely available. check the front of the saw to see if it has an adjustable oil pump.
The xl-12 should be pretty simple, check for spark, if none clean up the points. its a pretty basic saw.

also both of those have a duckbill valve in the gas caps under the sintered bronze filter/plug that will have turned to goo. replacements are widely available.

the 360 is a 60cc saw, they can run pretty good, mine pulled a 24" bar no problem (PNW softwoods) needed a full tear down and all new rubber everything though. nice saw.

the xl-12 is 54cc has lower rpm than the 360 they were/are popular saws. there's a reason they made millions of them for so many years. here's mine: fully restored.

20150917_124028.jpg
 
pull the muffler on the xl-12 and check the piston/cylinder for damage. pulling the muffler on the 360 involves taking half of the saw apart.
Check the intake boot on that 360, and the av rubber. Mine had turned to goo. Parts are pretty widely available. check the front of the saw to see if it has an adjustable oil pump.
The xl-12 should be pretty simple, check for spark, if none clean up the points. its a pretty basic saw.

also both of those have a duckbill valve in the gas caps under the sintered bronze filter/plug that will have turned to goo. replacements are widely available.

the 360 is a 60cc saw, they can run pretty good, mine pulled a 24" bar no problem (PNW softwoods) needed a full tear down and all new rubber everything though. nice saw.

the xl-12 is 54cc has lower rpm than the 360 they were/are popular saws. there's a reason they made millions of them for so many years. here's mine: fully restored.

View attachment 602984
That's a good looking saw! yea the 360 has the adjustable oiler on the front. also, I think the bar roller is shot on the xl-12. do you find all your replacement parts on Ebay or do you have a specific place that you get parts from? also, how bad of shape was yours in before restoring it to that beautiful condition? I know ill need new fuel lines and the tank is varnished up pretty bad, but everything moves and its had a protective case of oil coated sawdust on most of the important parts which chipped off to reveal decent metal.

im assuming these don't need a specialized duck bill right?

Thanks for the reply, im looking forward to messing around and hopefully getting these back up and running again.
 
The Homelite duckbill valve is PN 69451. You can find them on line as they are still made.
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/5-PACK-CHAIN...E-XL-XL-2-Super-2-69451-UP06862-/120941219134

I've used the Poulan valve as well on the homelites with no issues PN 530026119. Husky dealers should carry those as well as most small engine parts suppliers.

Crank seals for the XL-12 (PN 12282) cross to SKF 6119 or Timken 253747

Same for one side of the 360. Not sure about a cross to 70729 for the other side but it may cross to 12282
 
The Homelite duckbill valve is PN 69451. You can find them on line as they are still made.
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/5-PACK-CHAIN...E-XL-XL-2-Super-2-69451-UP06862-/120941219134

I've used the Poulan valve as well on the homelites with no issues PN 530026119. Husky dealers should carry those as well as most small engine parts suppliers.

Crank seals for the XL-12 (PN 12282) cross to SKF 6119 or Timken 253747

Same for one side of the 360. Not sure about a cross to 70729 for the other side but it may cross to 12282
Thanks for the heads up on the crank seals.
 
That's a good looking saw! yea the 360 has the adjustable oiler on the front. also, I think the bar roller is shot on the xl-12. do you find all your replacement parts on Ebay or do you have a specific place that you get parts from? also, how bad of shape was yours in before restoring it to that beautiful condition? I know ill need new fuel lines and the tank is varnished up pretty bad, but everything moves and its had a protective case of oil coated sawdust on most of the important parts which chipped off to reveal decent metal.

im assuming these don't need a specialized duck bill right?

Thanks for the reply, im looking forward to messing around and hopefully getting these back up and running again.

Thanks, I find my parts in a mixture of places, ebay, chainsawr, local craigslist for whole spare saws, the guys on here are usually pretty good if your in the USA (shipping to Canada is pricey). Motion Industries is the best place to get bearings and seals from. Their sales people have always been awesome for me.

That saw was in quite good shape, minus a destroyed top end, which is what made it a great restoration candidate. Darrin's Chainsaws restorations got me inspired to do a really thorough job. I took the saw completely apart and bead blasted everything, primed, painted, decal'd and clear coated with fuel resistant clear, new gaskets, top end, bearings etc. The saw now sits inside the house, its never seen fuel.

The duckbills (Husqvarna ones) through my dealer locally were only $1.95 CAD, each, which was actually cheaper than I could get them online. I buy then 10 at a time, they tend to be useful things to have around.

the 360 I had got sold after I worked on it. Ran great.

20170621_141115.jpg
 
Thanks, I find my parts in a mixture of places, ebay, chainsawr, local craigslist for whole spare saws, the guys on here are usually pretty good if your in the USA (shipping to Canada is pricey). Motion Industries is the best place to get bearings and seals from. Their sales people have always been awesome for me.

That saw was in quite good shape, minus a destroyed top end, which is what made it a great restoration candidate. Darrin's Chainsaws restorations got me inspired to do a really thorough job. I took the saw completely apart and bead blasted everything, primed, painted, decal'd and clear coated with fuel resistant clear, new gaskets, top end, bearings etc. The saw now sits inside the house, its never seen fuel.

The duckbills (Husqvarna ones) through my dealer locally were only $1.95 CAD, each, which was actually cheaper than I could get them online. I buy then 10 at a time, they tend to be useful things to have around.

the 360 I had got sold after I worked on it. Ran great.

View attachment 603003

Great! thanks for the links and information. ill look into Darrin's stuff. is he a guy on here doing stuff? Sadly, I think the 360 is actually in worse shape than the xl-12. looks like someone may have jb welded the seam on the front of the saw where the two halves come together. the guys had it since it was new and said it ran great until he put it down and never picked it back up, so im assuming that his fix did actually fix whatever it was that was broken. they both have some bubbling corrosion on parts of the saw but the internals (carb, inside of tanks) look to be in pretty good shape. ill take of the muffler on the xl and check out the cylinder and see what it looks like later on this evening maybe.
 
Great! thanks for the links and information. ill look into Darrin's stuff. is he a guy on here doing stuff? Sadly, I think the 360 is actually in worse shape than the xl-12. looks like someone may have jb welded the seam on the front of the saw where the two halves come together. the guys had it since it was new and said it ran great until he put it down and never picked it back up, so im assuming that his fix did actually fix whatever it was that was broken. they both have some bubbling corrosion on parts of the saw but the internals (carb, inside of tanks) look to be in pretty good shape. ill take of the muffler on the xl and check out the cylinder and see what it looks like later on this evening maybe.

Just google Darrin's Chainsaws, his website will come up.
some of the homelites had gas tanks that were glued together, you may just be seeing the factory glue. But if it is JB weld then you can always sand it out and paint over it. I suspect that the intake boot will be gone if its been sitting for any length of time.
also don't store them on concrete.... it seems to eat the magnesium away pretty bad.
 
Just google Darrin's Chainsaws, his website will come up.
some of the homelites had gas tanks that were glued together, you may just be seeing the factory glue. But if it is JB weld then you can always sand it out and paint over it. I suspect that the intake boot will be gone if its been sitting for any length of time.
also don't store them on concrete.... it seems to eat the magnesium away pretty bad.
Will do, and yea im pretty sure these were stored on concrete. That would explain the corrosion im seeing.
 
pull the muffler on the xl-12 and check the piston/cylinder for damage. pulling the muffler on the 360 involves taking half of the saw apart.
Check the intake boot on that 360, and the av rubber. Mine had turned to goo. Parts are pretty widely available. check the front of the saw to see if it has an adjustable oil pump.
The xl-12 should be pretty simple, check for spark, if none clean up the points. its a pretty basic saw.

also both of those have a duckbill valve in the gas caps under the sintered bronze filter/plug that will have turned to goo. replacements are widely available.

the 360 is a 60cc saw, they can run pretty good, mine pulled a 24" bar no problem (PNW softwoods) needed a full tear down and all new rubber everything though. nice saw.

the xl-12 is 54cc has lower rpm than the 360 they were/are popular saws. there's a reason they made millions of them for so many years. here's mine: fully restored.

View attachment 602984

Checked out the piston on the xl and it looks pristine. Seeing the outside had me worried, but its looking great. Cleaning out the fuel tank right now, then ill pop in the new fuel line and she what she does.
 
Cant get one screw loose on the xl to check out under the flywheel so i guess that one will just stay soaking in pb blaster for the night. Im pretty sure it doesnt have spark, so ill figure it out when i can break her open.

The 360 clearly has a spark problem. Ill attach a picture in a sec. Just from looking in the spark plug area of the piston, theres some buildup on the head but the walls look pristine from what i could see. I didn't replace the fuel lines on it yet.
0923171703.jpg
 
Cant get one screw loose on the xl to check out under the flywheel so i guess that one will just stay soaking in pb blaster for the night. Im pretty sure it doesnt have spark, so ill figure it out when i can break her open.

The 360 clearly has a spark problem. Ill attach a picture in a sec. Just from looking in the spark plug area of the piston, theres some buildup on the head but the walls look pristine from what i could see. I didn't replace the fuel lines on it yet.
View attachment 603357

Which screw are you trying to get out? Once the flywheel is off you should have access to the ignition points.

I can send you a copy of the Homelite repair manual if it's any help. Homelite used a thread locker so that stubborn bolt might benefit from some heat.
 
Which screw are you trying to get out? Once the flywheel is off you should have access to the ignition points.

I can send you a copy of the Homelite repair manual if it's any help. Homelite used a thread locker so that stubborn bolt might benefit from some heat.
Its just one of the bolts holding the cover on. The one down at the bottom of the handle. And yea its a real bear to get off. Its soaking overnight. It doesn't help that my socket doesn't fit easily on it. Yea, id love to have the repair manual!
 
Its just one of the bolts holding the cover on. The one down at the bottom of the handle. And yea its a real bear to get off. Its soaking overnight. It doesn't help that my socket doesn't fit easily on it. Yea, id love to have the repair manual!

Don't you just love the recoil bolts that are directly behind the handle bar? If it's that stubborn, I'd pull the handle bar off. Only three bolts and you're clear.

I'll send you a link to the storage site I keep the manual on via a PM.
 
Don't you just love the recoil bolts that are directly behind the handle bar? If it's that stubborn, I'd pull the handle bar off. Only three bolts and you're clear.

I'll send you a link to the storage site I keep the manual on via a PM.
Ohhhh i meant the bolt on the bottom of the cover by the trigger assembly handle. Yea, my socket BARELY fit on the one behind the front handle. I hope all it takes is for me to clean the contacts on the xl12. That would be fantastic. Is your 360 more difficult pull the starter cord? It seemed a little more stubborn than others.
 
Ohhhh i meant the bolt on the bottom of the cover by the trigger assembly handle. Yea, my socket BARELY fit on the one behind the front handle. I hope all it takes is for me to clean the contacts on the xl12. That would be fantastic. Is your 360 more difficult pull the starter cord? It seemed a little more stubborn than others.

No sweat. The PM is in your inbox with links to manuals and IPL's. I don't have a 360. The only model I have in that series is the Super 650. I think they're similar but the 650 is a bit larger.
 
No sweat. The PM is in your inbox with links to manuals and IPL's. I don't have a 360. The only model I have in that series is the Super 650. I think they're similar but the 650 is a bit larger.
Fair enough, thanks for your help so far! Ill know more tomorrow when i try to get that stuck bolt off again.
 
My dad picked up two XL12s yesterday and a nice 150. He also saw two curved shaft homelite weed eaters that he said had magnesium casings on the motor. He said they weren’t plastic, like the new ones. What could they have been?


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I picked up a pile of old Homelite/ Tillotson carburetor parts NOS and used old stuff
f05d42835e0087198631919906796243.jpg
e215005cb80e7fc203e4817526931686.jpg



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