Homelite Chainsaws

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Looks like she had a steady diet of 10W30.

Did you try a couple of allen keys in the spanner wrench holes? I've had luck turning down a couple of keys so they fit into 2 of the 3 holes tight. Chuck them in a vice and turn the powerhead or use the claw on a hammer to hook them. I use a couple of heavy duty Ty-Raps to keep the ends of the allen keys from spreading when using the hammer method. The leverage from the hammer will turn the clutch off rather easily. Need to put the cylinder back on though I am guessing.

They can be virtually impossible to remove with a drift alone.
 
Looks like she had a steady diet of 10W30.

Did you try a couple of allen keys in the spanner wrench holes? I've had luck turning down a couple of keys so they fit into 2 of the 3 holes tight. Chuck them in a vice and turn the powerhead or use the claw on a hammer to hook them. I use a couple of heavy duty Ty-Raps to keep the ends of the allen keys from spreading when using the hammer method. The leverage from the hammer will turn the clutch off rather easily. Need to put the cylinder back on though I am guessing.

They can be virtually impossible to remove with a drift alone.
Good idea although I don’t have a vice with me. I was just trying a punch with no luck. It did free the cylinder though lol.
 
I am still at a loss with this saw (posts 11430 and 11433 on page 572). I guess I need to get that clutch off and see what is underneath it. I have looked at a lot of these saws online and very few have the PTO side manual oil pump above the muffler like mine does. It appears that my muffler, air filter cover, and recoil are from a different saw. But still no answers on the rest. I guess I need to get that clutch off.
 
I have a couple of possibilities for a spanner that might work. One I modified for the SXL clutch, I think it is the same if you want to borrow it.

This clutch screws on the crank, doesn't it?
 
Alrighty homelite brain trust, I've been working on a 2100S and it is frustrating the crap out of me, I have replaced every single gasket rebuilt the carb replaced the seals and she still don't run very good.

1st run characteristic is it takes a lot on the low end to get it to idle right, like 2-3 turns.

2nd run characteristic is when you turn the high jet in she starts racing like it's not getting fuel so I'm not sure what's going on.

Suggestions? Its a HL D series that takes a RK-98 kit. Can't remember the numbers off the top of my head
 
I might check the fuel pump body, #19, on the IPL and the fuel pump cover, #26, for warping and air leaks. Leon did a video on that not too long ago.
 
I might check the fuel pump body, #19, on the IPL and the fuel pump cover, #26, for warping and air leaks. Leon did a video on that not too long ago.
I'll check and make sure do remember watching that video. One thing is it is a NOS carburetor, so I would hope it wojldnt have the issues of a well used carburetor
 
I am thinking the problem he discusses has a lot to do with many years under clamp load of the screws rather than whether or not it was used. Of course, over torquing would be bad too. Hope you find the trouble.
 
I'd happily trade a C51 or C72 for the circular saw, maybe one of my Xl900 series saws, but I'm running low on the big XL's. I haven't been over here for a while so I thought I'd post a couple pics of the last two auctions I went to. Got a running Super 1050 for $150, and a 150 Auto and C51 for $5 each, then yesterday got a Super EZ and another XL for $2 each, Joe.
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Clean it up and give us another viewing


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Hey Pete, I thought I lost your card, but I found it. I hurt my back the day before that sale, and after carrying the three saws out to the truck, I could hardly walk. Just now feeling better. Only took a few minutes and had the 1050 and the 150 running, Joe.
 
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