Homelite Chainsaws

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Put a chip in my C51, fired right up. Now I need to go through the fuels system.
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Here's another seal interchange for the Homelite list.

71597 crosses to CR6105.

Generally, these seals are installed as pair. First one with the lip inward, 2nd lip outward. My 6-22 has these on both sides, so 4 seals. This seal is also used on alot of Poulan sandcast saws (# 1913), some Wright saws and I have used it for the Remington Bantam series inner drum seal.
 
I'd say you need to clean that cylinder. The fins look pretty plugged up.

I am not terribly fond of those Nova 2 modules. The older brown Atom modules were far more reliable.

Chris B.
I'm taking the whole thing back apart and cleaning it. I have good spark, and it fired the first time I primed it. Now nothing. Pulled th muffler and all looks well. Put a prime in the carb and pulling the engine over with the switch off, I have fuel bubbling past the rings. Only have 90 PSI. Put a few drops of mix oil in the cylinder and it jumped to 100 on first pull and 120 on second. Think rings might not be seating. Might give it a soak in ATF/Acetone. That freed up my C72. It went from 60 to 120 just soaking for a week or so. I put a Nova in my Super 1050 10 years ago and still running. Bought a bunch of them back then. I have heard some dissatisfaction with them.
 
I put a Nova in my Super 1050 10 years ago and still running. Bought a bunch of them back then. I have heard some dissatisfaction with them.

Early on in my saw hobby, I took to installing those modules instead of bothering with the old points. Nowadays, I stick to the original ignitions and have even reverted one or 2 of the conversions back. There's alot of things I do differently, steps I don't skip.

Chris B.
 
How do I get the starter pulley off? Homelite 7-19View attachment 790305

Release the spring tension by unwinding the rope then remove the 4 screws. Pulley lifts off. To go further, remove the spring/shield assembly. Remove the crankshaft nut and 3 screws at the base of the ball starter. That whole assembly lifts off the crank along with the inner bearing races and shim. Remove the flywheel with a 3 screw harmonic balance puller and pull straight. Don't bend the long crank stub.

Chris B.

Edit: Don't lose any shims you find underneath the pulley. They set the pulley out so it doesn't drag on the spring shield.
 
Release the spring tension by unwinding the rope then remove the 4 screws. Pulley lifts off. To go further, remove the spring/shield assembly. Remove the crankshaft nut and 3 screws at the base of the ball starter. That whole assembly lifts off the crank along with the inner bearing races and shim. Remove the flywheel with a 3 screw harmonic balance puller and pull straight. Don't bend the long crank stub.

Chris B.

Edit: Don't lose any shims you find underneath the pulley. They set the pulley out so it doesn't drag on the spring shield.
Thanks. I'm parting it out for a guy on here.
 
Got the 6-22 further along, just waiting for the replacement tank. Runs with fuel sprayed in the carb. The 6105 seals are perfect for these saws.

View attachment 792499 View attachment 792500

I have what I believe to be a 6-22. Right bore, right reed set up, but came as a basket case missing almost all the paint and the tag and the starter cover.

Nice simple saws to work on.

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I'm guessing he didn't have a clutch cover so he cobbled up a Husky cover and had to cut the top plate off. Hense, the incredible use of neoprene closed cell material to quietly duct the chips away. I believe that 922 came with a lot of 500 saws from western Canada.

I guess you do what you have to do to cut your firewood. I like a guy that doesn't give up.

Not like us guys that get hung up on the little things.
 

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