Homelite Little Red XL (Unit # 10741) - Bar Oiler Not Operational

[XPLRN]

I know it's a older box store little saw but it belongs to my brother-in-law and I'd like to get it functioning properly for him.

In some of the searching I was doing to locate info I ran across this;
http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/166814-2.htm#post2821929
Maybe Mr. Palmer could tell me if the XL2 has the same oiler setup as the Little Red XL or if not what direction one should go to get it functional!?? Is it something as simple as a impulse line or what drives the oiler setup??

Thanks in advance for any input you can share! :msp_thumbup:

 

[a. palmer jr.]

I know it's a older box store little saw but it belongs to my brother-in-law and I'd like to get it functioning properly for him.

In some of the searching I was doing to locate info I ran across this;
http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/166814-2.htm#post2821929
Maybe Mr. Palmer could tell me if the XL2 has the same oiler setup as the Little Red XL or if not what direction one should go to get it functional!?? Is it something as simple as a impulse line or what drives the oiler setup??

Thanks in advance for any input you can share! :msp_thumbup:

What drives the oiler in those small Homelites is pressure in the oil tank pushing out oil through the filter, the line and down to the bar opening. What makes the pressure is a line from the crankcase into the tank with a duckbill valve on the end of it inside the tank near the cap to keep the pressure in the tank. Sometimes Homelite complicated the matter by putting an additional diaphragm in the case to help out. Sometimes I bypass that diaphragm, plug up the holes that aren't used and run just one line from the case to the tank and one line out to the bar. Make sure the bar is clean and the hoses aren't stopped up. Also make sure the oil cap is in good shape and on fairly tight so as to not lose pressure.
About all the little Homelites have basically the same oiler although some may be configured a little different. The simplest ones seem to be the best because they're easier to keep in good condition. Best to not use the sticky, heavy bar oil in these little saws..20 or 30wt motor oil works well with this type of oiler.

 

[XPLRN]

Thanks!!

What drives the oiler in those small Homelites is pressure in the oil tank pushing out oil through the filter, the line and down to the bar opening. What makes the pressure is a line from the crankcase into the tank with a duckbill valve on the end of it inside the tank near the cap to keep the pressure in the tank. Sometimes Homelite complicated the matter by putting an additional diaphragm in the case to help out. Sometimes I bypass that diaphragm, plug up the holes that aren't used and run just one line from the case to the tank and one line out to the bar. Make sure the bar is clean and the hoses aren't stopped up. Also make sure the oil cap is in good shape and on fairly tight so as to not lose pressure.
About all the little Homelites have basically the same oiler although some may be configured a little different. The simplest ones seem to be the best because they're easier to keep in good condition. Best to not use the sticky, heavy bar oil in these little saws..20 or 30wt motor oil works well with this type of oiler.

Thanks soo much for the information. Does one have to remove the red plastic exterior shell(s) to get to the "a line from the crankcase into the tank" ? By chance do you have any pictures that illustrate the position/routing of said oil line?? I'm presuming the oil goes directly from the pressurized tank to the bar???

 

[67L36Driver]

A scan from my Clymer Chain Saw Service Manual 10th edition:

The above illustration is for an XL, XL-2 or Super 2 with the engine mounted pump and a fuel line purge bulb.

The oiler system without the pump is dirt simple: Line from crankcase to top of oil tank with duckbill and feed line with filter in bottom of tank to bar mount.

 

[XPLRN]

Thanks soo much!!

A scan from my Clymer Chain Saw Service Manual 10th edition:


The above illustration is for an XL, XL-2 or Super 2 with the engine mounted pump and a fuel line purge bulb.

The oiler system without the pump is dirt simple: Line from crankcase to top of oil tank with duckbill and feed line with filter in bottom of tank to bar mount.

That's some great illustrative intel!! Thanks soo much for taking the time to provide that as it will help me and others that run into this problem in the future and search the archives. I like the "dirt simple" aspect of the oiler system with out the pump, I'll tear into it tonight and figure out which setup I've got........hopefully the dirt simple version but I've got a feeling it's got a fuel line purge bulb!!

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Thanks soo much for the information. Does one have to remove the red plastic exterior shell(s) to get to the "a line from the crankcase into the tank" ? By chance do you have any pictures that illustrate the position/routing of said oil line?? I'm presuming the oil goes directly from the pressurized tank to the bar???

You have to remove the plastic shell to do the replacement of the oil lines, assuming they need replaced. Usually what goes wrong first is the duckbill valve inside the oil tank on the end of the line from the crankcase. Usually the duckbill valve is either missing or turned into a gob of mush on the end of the line. If that valve is missing the oiler won't work so you might check that first. You can still buy the valve at ebay or a mower shop can order them for you. Stens sells them but I don't think you can order from them unless you're a dealer. Should you need to remove the case it's not that difficult, remove muffler, bar and chain, 2 screws on top, 2 on the bottom, take black carb cover off and remove the linkage then the engine should slide out. If no one has messed with it before just replace the hoses one at a time to avoid confusion. Pic shows placement of valve in oil tank.

 

[XPLRN]

Thanks so much for the repair tips!!

You have to remove the plastic shell to do the replacement of the oil lines, assuming they need replaced. Usually what goes wrong first is the duckbill valve inside the oil tank on the end of the line from the crankcase. Usually the duckbill valve is either missing or turned into a gob of mush on the end of the line. If that valve is missing the oiler won't work so you might check that first. You can still buy the valve at ebay or a mower shop can order them for you. Stens sells them but I don't think you can order from them unless you're a dealer. Should you need to remove the case it's not that difficult, remove muffler, bar and chain, 2 screws on top, 2 on the bottom, take black carb cover off and remove the linkage then the engine should slide out. If no one has messed with it before just replace the hoses one at a time to avoid confusion. Pic shows placement of valve in oil tank.

I will go check the duckbill first, great illustrative picture, thanks!! I'll be interested to find out what the source of the problem is!??

 

[a. palmer jr.]

I will go check the duckbill first, great illustrative picture, thanks!! I'll be interested to find out what the source of the problem is!??

Under that duckbill valve is a porous piece of tubing about 1/2" long or so. If you want the saw to oil LESS (which I don't) just pull the valve out a little way from the yellow hose, it exposes some of the tubing and lets a little bit of air escape. I usually don't use that bronze piece of pipe, I use a homemade piece of tubing from a ball point pen and push the valve all the way in so it oils at max. Make sure the oil cap isn't leaking or it won't work well.

 

[Garet Gagne]

Hey gentlemen! I am going to attempt this fix on my saw. Just wondering if you have photos of what you did as I am having a mental block of what to do to run a line from the crankcase hole. What did you use also to plug up the diaphragm hole? Thank you so much in advance.

 

[8milimeter]

UPDATE: I recently picked up a older XL 14" UT-10618 with the pressurized tank (no pump).
After replacing the duck valves it still would not pump even with ATF as oil.
It ended up being the oil tank filter. I could blow compressed air thru it,
but the oil would not flow. I ended up using a old gas filter and took the felt off it.
Under the felt was a very fine screen. Put that in the oil tank and the ATF came out almost to fast.
New oil tank filter on order

 

[67L36Driver]

I just got a Super 2 running. It oils the chain somewhere between the Exxon Valdez and Event Horizon.[emoji2960]

Porous bronze connector may be plugged up. [emoji848]

 

[8milimeter]

Check the duck valves first then pull the oil filter. Sounds like the filter may have disconnected from the tube.
Is this a pressurized oil tank or pump model.