Homelite super EZ

[Jasonrkba]

I have replaced the engine with one I purchased on eBay from "customchainsawparts" in Washington. It arrived fast and in great shape. But it will not run. I have everything assembled. Carburetor rebuilt, new plug, fuel line and filter. Seems to be getting fuel but the spark is kinda week. I use one of those firefly coils to see the spark. It doesn't fire as bright as most I have checked. I actually had to turn all the lights in the basement off to detect anything. The saw has the points setup and I have never messed with them. My question where do I start with diagnosis?

Thanks. Jason.

 

[undee70ss]

Take a known good plug, cut the ground strap off, test for spark. If no spark, to weak to run. It takes more voltage to fire under compression then in open air.

 

[Goofaroo]

I’ve got a Super EZ as well and from what I recall it is pretty common for the coil on them to fail. It’s been a while since I looked into this but the factory coil was either very expensive or hard to find. The common fix is conversion to solid state ignition. There’s this option:

https://toucandeal.com/randysengine...MI7NLThbSK4QIVBB-tBh2YhAFOEAQYHyABEgJmx_D_BwE

If I remember correctly, once you install this you can then buy the coil for the later version of the Super EZ and you’ll be good to go.

 

[buzz sawyer]

I have one and had to file and reset the points twice in about 25 years. Always ran great.

 

[undee70ss]

I’ve got a Super EZ as well and from what I recall it is pretty common for the coil on them to fail. It’s been a while since I looked into this but the factory coil was either very expensive or hard to find. The common fix is conversion to solid state ignition. There’s this option:

https://toucandeal.com/randysengine...MI7NLThbSK4QIVBB-tBh2YhAFOEAQYHyABEgJmx_D_BwE

If I remember correctly, once you install this you can then buy the coil for the later version of the Super EZ and you’ll be good to go.

The ones that failed were the blue solid state ones. The ones with points, the coils seldom failed. Ignition problems were either the points or condenser.

 

[Jasonrkba]

It has the grey coil. I will pull the flywheel and take a look. I really don't know what im looking at. I will check out youtube. I like the idea of the conversion kit but if it's just clean points and change a condenser, sounds easy.

 

[Okie]

Keep a heads up about which ignition system is used. Phelon or Wico. parts are different for each.

I've got some of them EZ's, some are 40 years old and used quite often and still have the OEM points and condenser.
After the flywheel is off (some of the flywheels don't come off easily and I use a puller, not the whack the crank method)) look for the ignition name on the points cover. I would install a new set of points and condenser (while the flywheel is off) if I were removing the flywheel looking for ignition issues instead of filing and re-gapping points. The little measley condenser can cause such also. I've tried that electronic conversion in other brands of chainsaws and did not ever have any long term success with the conversion when using it on chainsaw. Heads up: Before re-installing the flywheel rotate the engine until the points are closed, drag a clean not fuzzy piece of paper (dollar bill works good) through the point to clean them. Even new points will sometimes have a oily glaze and won't make good contact and fire until they are cleaned. I usually use a low resistance ohmmeter and confirm that points are making good contact before re-installing and torqueing a flywheel nut.

To get a good visual on the spark and the spark plug is good, remove the spark plug and set the gap at about .035 to .040 ground the plug good, (don't let it just dangle around on ground) and give the rope a sharp fast pull and in a darkened room you should see a good strong spark. If spark is weak remove the kill wire from the switch and try again. Set the air gap on the coil at .010-.012. (make sure the flywheel magnet is not touching or rubbing on the coil.

If you get good spark, have at least 100 psi compression, it should give you a promise pop with a squirt of gas into the carb throat if not severely flooded. Keep a heads up and don't flood the saw when priming. I sometimes take a chainsaw muffler off if the chainsaw engine is not starting easily and watch the exhaust port after cranking. If it get wet, it's flooding. (this exhaust port visual is easier than constantly removing the spark plug and looking at it) If it's staying dry you can prime the engine easy thru the exhaust port with the piston down instead of the carb throat.

If the saw starts and wants to run, do not operate the saw very long with the muffler off nor try to adjust the carb with the muffler off. Carb Setting are little different with muffler on and trash can get into the exposed muffler port.

Them Old EZ's are good saws and built for the long haul and worth the effort to attempt repairs.
Some of them carb's are not easy to RE-install and I have some tips to lessen the pain of re-installing a carb, especially the carb linkage area. (using high pressure air for carb cleaning can ruin one of them carbs permanently)

 

[Jasonrkba]

The manual says to set breaker point gap to 0.015. condenser capacity should test 0.16-0.20 mfd.

My plan is to slip some 600 grit to clean, readjust the gap and clean with contact cleaner. Pulling the flywheel is simple enough, remember I just installed a replacement engine. And yes the carborator is a pita to pull and replace.

 

[Jasonrkba]

So just to make sure I did this correctly, you set the gap with the points open. Is that correct?

 

[undee70ss]

So just to make sure I did this correctly, you set the gap with the points open. Is that correct?

Yes, with the points arm on high point of cam lobe.

 

[buzz sawyer]

600 grit may not do it if there is a lot of corrosion. Better to avoid sandpaper if possible but if used, clean with contact cleaner as mentioned. I haven't found a point file in years so I use a raker file. Also make sure the faces of the points are mating squarely.

 

[Jasonrkba]

I did sand with the 600 and gap them correctly. It popped a couple times to get me excited then it probably flooded from pulling so many times. I have a condenser on the original engine that I'm going to try switching out. Maybe try to clean up the points some more. They are a pain to gap. As I tightened the screw the point moves.

 

[Okie]

if you will look back at undee70ss post at about #5 you will see a google link (Homelite manuals) he has that will steer you to some Service info for Homie stuff. Here is his google link he has posted. I've downloaded lots of Homelite Service info from his link and saved it to a Homelite Serrvice CD for future reference.
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B45zn2wzY6Z_ME5ZakxOcTkzUEU

If you can post up a exact model and ID number of your EZ we might can steer you to a Homelite Service manual link for your saw with tips on how to diagnosis and make adjustments.

 

[Jasonrkba]

There is some good stuff there!

I have the service manual. It tells what specifications and torque specs to use on stuff but assumes I know what im doing. I spoke with a mechanic at work who is an old biker and he explained some things to help me understand what im trying to achieve by filing the points. I thought I was just cleaning but the way he explained is over time the actual shape of the points change and not as much of the surface makes contact. when filing the points by sandwiching the file between the points you are marrying the two points helping to insure full contact. He also said the 600 was doing nothing. There are some point files on ebay so I'll buy a couple, they will definitely get used. I have two of these EZ's and sold one of the early versions last year and regret it.

 

[Okie]

I've got all kinds of points files, some are diamond impregnated especially made for points.

For my own equipment:
I very seldom use the points files unless it's just to get by until I can find new replacement points.
Usually the reason points fail is they are worn out.
Even re-gapping old worn points is usually not reliable. and a waste of time and effort.

Some claim they can file points and restore them to like new reliable condition, but I've never witnessed such.
I've also seen a set of ignition points last 40 years or longer, but disturb a set of ignition or electrical points after they have been in use for awhile and they fail to be trustworthy.

(old filed points seem to fail me right when you need them to be good)

 

[Jasonrkba]

Well this morning I was replacing the starter rope and noticed the switch was off?

No way.. it didn't start but it sure wanted to. I put the original plug in and it started. It ran long enough to tune the carburetor and died. At that point it would not start again. Could it be as simple as my new ngk plug was bad out of the package?

 

[buzz sawyer]

Well this morning I was replacing the starter rope and noticed the switch was off?

No way.. it didn't start but it sure wanted to. I put the original plug in and it started. It ran long enough to tune the carburetor and died. At that point it would not start again. Could it be as simple as my new ngk plug was bad out of the package?

I've seen it happen a couple times.
One more comment from my experience with points - I've only be working with them for close to 50 years. You need smooth, oil free shiny metal surfaces that mate squarely and the pivot is not worn. If a coarse file or sandpaper is used, you will have raised ridges that do not last long due to the arcing when they open and close. The small high points will quickly erode and create poor contact. Sand paper can also leave residues on the contact surfaces.

 

[Okie]

Well this morning I was replacing the starter rope and noticed the switch was off?

No way.. it didn't start but it sure wanted to. I put the original plug in and it started. It ran long enough to tune the carburetor and died. At that point it would not start again. Could it be as simple as my new ngk plug was bad out of the package?

Not likely.

This is too see if you lost spark or if it's fuel related. (or both)

First take the spark plug out and and with the switch in the ON position observe the spark.(as described above)
Take the muffler off and watch for wetness or dryness of the exhaust port while cranking.

 

[Jasonrkba]

You guys where on the money. I filed the points with a points file, reset the gap and it runs great. I wish I had taken some pictures of the rebuild process to share but sounds like you guys have seen it all before.... Thanks again everyone. I think I will continue the Mac 1-70 rebuild now.

 

[TRTermite]

I've got all kinds of points files, some are diamond impregnated especially made for points.

For my own equipment:
I very seldom use the points files unless it's just to get by until I can find new replacement points.
Usually the reason points fail is they are worn out.
Even re-gapping old worn points is usually not reliable. and a waste of time and effort.

Some claim they can file points and restore them to like new reliable condition, but I've never witnessed such.
I've also seen a set of ignition points last 40 years or longer, but disturb a set of ignition or electrical points after they have been in use for awhile and they fail to be trustworthy.

(old filed points seem to fail me right when you need them to be good)

My Dad was a good common sense mechanic as time goes on you forget who taught you some of the things you "JUST KNOW" . Doesn't seem like 50 and (some) years since I first heard this conversation but it has probably been 35 years since I heard it last. You said this well and I appreciate your comment. I worked on 480 volt starters through the years and the filing of the contacts is viewed the same way.