Homelite Super XL Score

[svk]

No. They are different. That’s why kit comes with a new rotor.

Thank you!

 

[svk]

no bracket needed here. had to file notch in top of lam, left in pic, for screw. as said above, starts/runs good, so timin must be very close. I ran it some after bakin the blue coil couple times, so can compare them. never used a light on saws.

Nice!

 

[undee70ss]

One other question. Just to confirm, points vs blue coil vs phelon all use a different flywheel, correct?

A Wico points ignition and a Wico Blue electronic ignition use the same rotor (#70639). Im not sure on the Phelon ignitions. Wico made most of the points ignitions on SXL's anyways.

 

[svk]

blue prestolite to china husky 268 [& others] coil conversion. pioneer farmlite. coil was $7. usd on feepay. starts/runs good. haven't tried on homie yet, but may work.

View attachment 618893

Sorry for not being familiar with the Farmlite. Is that a rebadged homie?

 

[pioneerguy600]

Yes, a timing light can be used on a chainsaw or any other engine, they are triggered by the high voltage discharge that fires the plug.

 

[pioneerguy600]

Sorry for not being familiar with the Farmlite. Is that a rebadged homie?

Pioneer

 

[undee70ss]

Yes, a timing light can be used on a chainsaw or any other engine, they are triggered by the high voltage discharge that fires the plug.

Then you have to overcome where you are going to point the timing light to. I have never tried it.

 

[svk]

If you put a degree wheel on the saw you could put a hash mark at the desired timing point. Of course would take some trial and error to get the coil in the exact place.

 

[pioneerguy600]

Set the piston to top dead center with a timing wheel attached to the crank, clutch side. With a wire indicator fixed to the saw chassis move the crank 20 degrees advanced and mark the flywheel with a dab of white paint or whiteout where the indicator is pointing, that is where one would want the spark to occur, indicated by the timing light at that moment.

 

[Hoggwood]

If you put a degree wheel on the saw you could put a hash mark at the desired timing point. Of course would take some trial and error to get the coil in the exact place.

I played around with those husky coils awhile until I found one that worked on the XL-76's. I ended up timing from scratch quite a bit. Did the same on a failed 3-piece off of an early P50. I used a light and worked off of the flywheel side. Found TDC and advanced 28 degrees for the XL -76's. Marked a matching set of points using liquid paper dabs on a flywheel fin and an area adjacent to the flywheel on the case. Made certain the marks lay along a radius through the nut. Mounted the new coil however close to the original position of the core legs. Turned the flywheel manually using a high speed drill. Have the plug out (so you can turn it over quickly) but it must be grounded and sparking through the case. I used an alligator clip to the strap on the plug to case. Mark the case adjacent to the new position the flywheel mark is at when the light is flashing. The angle between the new case mark and the master mark is the number of degrees you need to advance or retard. Pull the key and advance or retard your flywheel accordingly and nut her down. Move the piston into a stop and mark the flywheel/case if you need to hold things and get them realigned after you pop the flywheel off or have a blind keyway you can't see to match up.

There are probably 50 better ways of doing this , but I am a hack. Although, it works provided the coils do not have built in advances . The RPM when turning via a drill is low.

It is interesting to note that the timing of the husky coil after manipulating the flywheel was within a degree or two of alignment with the original key position. At least on the XL-76's. The other members that tried these same coils have found them to work pretty well using stock flywheel configuration. I know the coil I used on the early P50 required a noticeable retiming using a light. Runs like a champ though now. A lot of coils can be made to work. Just make certain the polarity of the flywheel they come off of is the same.

 

[Okie]

One other question. Just to confirm, points vs blue coil vs phelon all use a different flywheel, correct?

Are all the EZ crankshafts for the different rotors (flywheels) the same?

I heard a rumor on this site that some of the EZ crankshafts are different for the different rotors or ignition systems??????

 

[svk]

Are all the EZ crankshafts for the different rotors (flywheels) the same?

I heard a rumor on this site that some of the EZ crankshafts are different for the different rotors or ignition systems??????

I don't know but I've heard some of the XL series had different crank noses over the years which makes retro fitting a bit more challenging.

 

[svk]

I played around with those husky coils awhile until I found one that worked on the XL-76's. I ended up timing from scratch quite a bit. Did the same on a failed 3-piece off of an early P50. I used a light and worked off of the flywheel side. Found TDC and advanced 28 degrees for the XL -76's. Marked a matching set of points using liquid paper dabs on a flywheel fin and an area adjacent to the flywheel on the case. Made certain the marks lay along a radius through the nut. Mounted the new coil however close to the original position of the core legs. Turned the flywheel manually using a high speed drill. Have the plug out (so you can turn it over quickly) but it must be grounded and sparking through the case. I used an alligator clip to the strap on the plug to case. Mark the case adjacent to the new position the flywheel mark is at when the light is flashing. The angle between the new case mark and the master mark is the number of degrees you need to advance or retard. Pull the key and advance or retard your flywheel accordingly and nut her down. Move the piston into a stop and mark the flywheel/case if you need to hold things and get them realigned after you pop the flywheel off or have a blind keyway you can't see to match up.

There are probably 50 better ways of doing this , but I am a hack. Although, it works provided the coils do not have built in advances . The RPM when turning via a drill is low.

It is interesting to note that the timing of the husky coil after manipulating the flywheel was within a degree or two of alignment with the original key position. At least on the XL-76's. The other members that tried these same coils have found them to work pretty well using stock flywheel configuration. I know the coil I used on the early P50 required a noticeable retiming using a light. Runs like a champ though now. A lot of coils can be made to work. Just make certain the polarity of the flywheel they come off of is the same.

Awesome!

 

[chainsawlady]

Blue coil means it is electronic ignition. Black coil means points ignition.

Don't pull the panic lever if it is a blue coil saw. With that little use it may last for a while yet.

 

[chainsawlady]

When the blue Prestolite modules started to go bad, Homelite came out with a replacement. It was a black module and a new rotor. I changed many of them. I think some later new saws also came out with that good black module.
chainsawladh

 

[Beer Gut]

Ok had time tonight I have blue coil. Saw is running great. Saw is collection piece. What should I do ? I want it right for next 50 yrs. Should I change if so who's got for sale. ???,

 

[svk]

Just use it as you would. If the coil fails then buy a replacement.

 

[pioneerguy600]

Just use it as you would. If the coil fails then buy a replacement.

Best answer ^^^. Its not like one can`t ever be found again in the future.

 

[Beer Gut]

Best answer ^^^. Its not like one can`t ever be found again in the future.

Thanks. PM me I'll buy now PayPal if you got. Saw will never see wood though