Homelite XL-12 Blue reborn! Two questions...

[Overlooker]

I received this saw as a gift from a friend whose late husband, a farmer, purchased it in the sixties. He retired and moved the family to town in 1981, and I'm sure the saw didn't get used much after that. I couldn't stand to see this old work horse sit idle, so I got her running again. I did lots of cleaning, replaced the fuel line, spark plug, air filter, and the little rubber hose inside of the oil reservoir. I rebuilt the Tillotson carb and spent quite a bit of time getting the Homelite branded #38 chain back into shape. These photos were taken right after my first test run, hence the loose chain.
http://i1143.photobucket.com/albums/n630/the-accumulator/20180312_174709.jpg,
http://i1143.photobucket.com/albums/n630/the-accumulator/20180312_174655.jpg,
http://i1143.photobucket.com/albums/n630/the-accumulator/20180312_174805.jpg,
http://i1143.photobucket.com/albums/n630/the-accumulator/20180312_174753.jpg,
http://i1143.photobucket.com/albums/n630/the-accumulator/20180312_174726.jpg,
http://i1143.photobucket.com/albums/n630/the-accumulator/20180312_174703.jpg,
http://i1143.photobucket.com/albums/n630/the-accumulator/20180312_174642.jpg,
What oil mix should I be using? I suspect, that with today's modern two-cycle oils, I don't need to go as rich as the instructions on the fuel cap recommend. Has anyone had problems with this type of fuel cap leaking out the vent holes?
Thanks, O

 

[s sidewall]

Replace the old, possible cracked crank seals? 40:1 with a good grade of oil should be ok, that's what I've been running in all my saws, old and new.

Steve

 

[Overlooker]

I was guessing somewhere between 32:1 and 40:1, but I wanted more input before I did any damage. I have not replaced the crank seals. How will I know that I need to? Thanks for your help.

 

[svk]

I run 32:1 in the old saws but in reality even 50:1 is fine as long as the saw is tuned properly and doesn’t have any air leaks.

There’s a little one way valve in the cap under that bronze breather. You can either try to get it out and replace or just get a new(used) cap.

 

[Overlooker]

My fuel cap came to me without anything in the recess below the two tiny vent holes. I saw photos of similar caps on line that seemed to have a cylinder of bronze mesh protruding from the recess inside the upper part of the cap, but I wasn't sure. I fashioned a breather valve of my own design using a several cork rings, a thin steel disk with a hole drilled in the center, and a machine screw with a spring from a ball point pen, a thin cork disk and two nuts tightened on the end of the screw opposite the head. The spring keeps the little cork seal tight against the hole in the metal disk but lets air into the tank as fuel flows out to the carb. The whole contraption is held up inside of the lid with a retaining ring that I fashioned from a stiff piece of #9 fence wire. Now, even without the saw running, only a tiny bit of fuel dribbles out when the saw is on is side. I'll still keep my eyes open for a proper original replacement cap. Thanks for the info. O
(I wish I had taken photos of my invention before I installed it in the cap!)

 

[s sidewall]

At the age of that saw, they have probably started to crack. You can pressure test and vacuum test to make sure you don't have any air leak. If I'm gonna go to the trouble getting an old saw going, I'm replacing the old harden rubber parts too along with fuel lines and rebuild the carb with new filter. But after that, it still needs to be tested for leakage to keep from toasting the piston and cylinder. Cheap insurance and assurance.

Steve

 

[s sidewall]

You've already replaced most of the stuff in getting it to run, best replace the crank seals. You won't regret it.

Steve

 

[Overlooker]

Steve, I visited this site re: how to replace crank seal:
http://************/threads/how-to-...-crank-seal-on-a-homelite-super-xl-auto.1974/,
From the instructions, there seems to be only one seal to replace. Am I correct? Doesn't look like it should be too difficult. Thanks for the advice; I think I'll take you up on it. O

 

[saxman]

I’m a sucker for the old Homeys. They were dependable as gravity even if they were heavy, loud and vibrated bad. I have several that I’ve got running and play with them from time to time but they mainly enjoy their retirement on the shelf


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[s sidewall]

Steve, I visited this site re: how to replace crank seal:
http://************/threads/how-to-...-crank-seal-on-a-homelite-super-xl-auto.1974/,
From the instructions, there seems to be only one seal to replace. Am I correct? Doesn't look like it should be too difficult. Thanks for the advice; I think I'll take you up on it. O

Two seals, one behind flywheel and the other behind clutch.

Steve

 

[Overlooker]

Saxman, That is my plan for this one: enjoy running it occasionally and looking at it the rest of the time!
Steve, That makes sense. Thanks again for the advice. O

 

[Mad Professor]

I’m a sucker for the old Homeys. They were dependable as gravity even if they were heavy, loud and vibrated bad. I have several that I’ve got running and play with them from time to time but they mainly enjoy their retirement on the shelf


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The XL-12s were pretty light, I think under 13 lbs.

 

[Duane(Pa)]

The XL-12s were pretty light, I think under 13 lbs.

You may be thinking of another model? Probably pushing 18-20 lb. with full tanks and B&C. My dad and I went halfies on a Super XL Auto back in the mid seventies. It's still a runner, but I really ought to give it the spa treatment one of these days...

 

[usmcbuckwild]

Seals are pretty easy on the Super XL12. I finished one up not long ago and its quite a runner. Not super fast, but its loud and rowdy! I cleaned up the exhaust port a little and did a small timing bump. The timing is slightly adjustable if you elongate the hole for the bolt that goes into the cylinder.

 

[Mad Professor]

You may be thinking of another model? Probably pushing 18-20 lb. with full tanks and B&C. My dad and I went halfies on a Super XL Auto back in the mid seventies. It's still a runner, but I really ought to give it the spa treatment one of these days...

Acres chainsaw website has the super XL-12 powerhead being 12 lb 12 oz, the XL-12 12.5 lbs, super XL auto 13 lb 14 oz.

That's only a pound or two more than a 034 stihl

http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.nsf/GasbyManufacturer?OpenView&Start=53.145&Count=30&Expand=53#53