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Burchie70

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Mar 24, 2020
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Farmguy I don’t have a disc under that screen it’s empty. Maybe the guy who had the saw before me lost it when he rebuilt the carb.
a Palmer I changed the duck bill in the fuel tank so that is new.
Kash I’ll have to check the video out, I’ve ordered parts from Leon’s in past.
the diagram I posted is for the hdc15 carb but it shows both the high speed and low speed jets. My carb is the older version without the high speed jet. Not sure if that makes a difference because all the other parts are the same. I’ve looked everywhere for a diagram without the high speed but can’t find one. Thinking about contacting Walbro directly and asking them about a diagram for the older version and about the check valve. Thanks guys
 

Burchie70

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I watched the video on Leon’s site and the carb he was rebuilding was the same carb as mine without the high speed needle jet. The video is very informative and the carb he was working on he had to replace the check valve and brass seat. I found the check valve kit on eBay for $10 so I ordered it. I’m going to check a few other things that I found when doing research while I wait for the check valve. If the valve doesn’t doesn’t fix it I think I’m sending this saw down the road.
 

Okie

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What is the UT number of your saw?
Did you ever do a vac/pressure test on your chainsaw block?


If you see the UT on a glue on sticker I take a etching tool and scribe it into the paint on the saw in couple of places because the wimpy glue on sticker will usually get damaged or fall off over time.
The UT number is important so as to get on the right page for parts, etc.
Also with a UT number you might find a cheap clone sub clone carb on flea bay.
The carbs from other super 2 will usually be close enough that they can be used as a sub. I keep a eye open around for old XL2's and sometimes have to take 2 or 3 to make on good one without spending money on new replacement parts.

Leons video was good. I've never dug into the check valve area. I have a couple of super 2 carbs that probably have the bad check valves. Think I seen a post on this site sometime back about a guy that used a leather punch and made his check valves?
 

Burchie70

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Okie I don’t have a vac/pressure tester. With NYS on lockdown I can’t go buy anything. I also want to pressure test the carb also. Do you know where I can order a vac/pressure tester ? Also I can’t find a UT number anywhere on the saw only the serial #31633519. I also removed the brass seat where the check valve goes and could see what was left of what appears to be the old check valve. I took a needle and tried to push it through the port and it was completely blocked. I finally got that cleaned out so I can see light through to the other end.
thanks for the help
 

Okie

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Vacuum pressure hand pump type tester: General info Maybe someone else will chime in with vac/pressure cheaper options.
If you piddle around working on lots of stuff, carbs, vec's, and general piddling with your own stuff you cannot go wrong going with a mityvac 8500 silverline series. It has the compound gauge (pressure/vacuum) and can be kitted if needed. They last forever. Do not buy a plastic type pump because they cannot be repaired or kitted. I've heard rumor that HF has a compound type but I have no experience with theirs. I store all my Vac/Pressure pumps, adapter, etc in a big plastic tool box. I've accumulated several adapters over the years and I can readily find such when needed.

The Leons guy is using a pressure pump bulb only, similar to this one on flea bay
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Blood-Pressure-Bulb-Pump-Replacement-with-Tubing-Rubber-Adjustable-Pump-Bulb/192771824380 and a 0-10 lb gauge. (note the bulb has a pressure release valve on the output)

I've used the older model mityvac 04000 series for years but it only has a vac
gauge even though the pump is pressure and vacuum it don't have a compound
gauge, I have to use a 0-15 lb external gauge in the pressure hose. I use a red inline Briggs fuel filter when doing vac to keep from sucking small debris into the vac pump. I've had to take mine apart and clean the check valves due to such debris coming backwards into the pump.
I also use mine to bleed brakes by myself. Be careful and do not get brake fluid or similar into the pump or a kit will be required.
I'm also staying away from parts places and ordering on-line Amazon prime and flea bay.
I sometimes on float type automotive carbs and small engine carbs use a marine type fuel pump squeeze bulb with a pressure gauge inline and send pressurized gas into a float type carb to test the needle seat.
If you found pieces of the old valve inside maybe you found the culprit.

Stay safe.
 

Okie

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I was searching and looking for the thread about how to make the Walbro little valve disc and stumbled across this info about Walbro valves.
http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/MR/mr2cycle/2012-12-19_155917_check_valves.pdf
Look towards the last part also for HDC carbs. Gives general idea of how to test the main nozzle check valve. It appears that maybe the valve main function is for High speed operation.

I seen a thread on this site awhile back about a guy that was making his own disc valves using a soft rubber of about .010 to around .012 thick and mabe making them from carb diaphragm material??? The old Arborsite had hints at the bottom of a thread about others of same category. do not see those with the new forum layout????????
 

KASH

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ontario canada
I had my xl2 auto running great last night .I put it all back together today and it will not start flooding bad,I guess I will tear the little rascal apart again inlet needle valve probably.I am getting pretty fast at taking it apart 10 minutes or so.I dont know why I am spending the time on it ? It just looks cool all that bright red shiny metal and brand new homelite bar and chain.
My serial number is 30300986 anybody know what year it is?
Also what the h\ll is a UT number?
Kash
 

Burchie70

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I’m getting pretty fast at taking mine apart also. This saw is the worst thing I have ever gotten for free lol. I bet I’ve had it apart 25 times since last summer. I work on it till I get frustrated then put in my shed for a couple months and pull it back out. I probably could’ve bought a new Stihl with money and time I’ve sank in it. Have a few more tricks up my sleeve before it goes back in the shed. Kash if you figure anything out about the year and UT numbers let me know
 
Old2stroke

Old2stroke

Never too many toys
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I google searched “how to build a check valve for a walbro hdc carb” and found the thread on this site you are talking about. Reading through it now. thanks for the help
Here's the thread you want. Good luck.
 

Okie

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I’m getting pretty fast at taking mine apart also. This saw is the worst thing I have ever gotten for free lol. I bet I’ve had it apart 25 times since last summer. I work on it till I get frustrated then put in my shed for a couple months and pull it back out. I probably could’ve bought a new Stihl with money and time I’ve sank in it. Have a few more tricks up my sleeve before it goes back in the shed. Kash if you figure anything out about the year and UT numbers let me know
A guy gave me a horse few years back. I never was one to look a gift horse in the mouth and I never carefully look at anything that is free, but?????that horse was costly afterwards, lots worse than a chainsaw. Chainsaws at least don't need constant food, when not being used.

Patience is your friend when working on especially old obselete saws. I've had to set them on the back burner for awhile myself and let them rest and re-flog them later. Always good to watch for old Homies for spare parts also.
Thanks for the link to the guy making the check valves. I never did like paying big bucks for something that should cost only a few cents due to it being NLA.
At least you will know how to repair your own stuff if you ever get it going.
 
Old2stroke

Old2stroke

Never too many toys
Joined
Jan 24, 2016
Messages
507
Age
78
Location
Ottawa, Canada
I’m getting pretty fast at taking mine apart also. This saw is the worst thing I have ever gotten for free lol. I bet I’ve had it apart 25 times since last summer. I work on it till I get frustrated then put in my shed for a couple months and pull it back out. I probably could’ve bought a new Stihl with money and time I’ve sank in it. Have a few more tricks up my sleeve before it goes back in the shed. Kash if you figure anything out about the year and UT numbers let me know
You should work on a few McCulloch Mini Macs, then this one wouldn't seem so bad.
 

KASH

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Nov 4, 2004
Messages
108
Age
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Location
ontario canada
My saw serial 30300986 using your chart 1973 carb says 72 11 so I guess the chart works.I tore her apart again today Isnt that wire throttle and plastic lever a treat to get in place.I had it all together last step put the throttle springgy rod then saw the plastic .lever was in backwards.After an outburst of choice words at the Homelite people I did another instant replay and I got the saw going.The idle is still not perfect but it isnt flooding .I set the inlet lever a c hair lower than recommended.The low speed needle is pretty sensitive open to much she loads up if you set it leaner in my carb there is a transition circuit from idle to high speed.I wish I had the carb with high and low needles
I still want to know what a UT number is.
I had 5 Mini Macs over the years took a couple apart to change gas filter real pain to work on. I gave them away to smart ass guys who brag they can fix anything .I have never heard these words Kash thanks so much for that little MiniMac I tore it apart and it runs like a swiss watch.
Good little saws as long as some one else fixes them.
Kash
 
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