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How do you decide what your "ride" is?

CentaurG2

CentaurG2

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I had a Lotus Elise just like the one in the video.

Putting the top on isn't tough. 2 fiberglass support rods and the top clips into the passenger and driver side.
Maybe 15-20 seconds if in a rush.

Was a fun car! Made my lowered VW Jetta seem monster truck tall!
That was an older video featuring the last (NC) generation MX-5 with a hardtop. The latest ND generation has a rally fastback hardtop and will go up or down in 13 seconds.






The rag top MX-5 has always been K.I.S.S easy. If it takes you longer that 3 seconds to put the top up/down, something is very wrong. If the windows are up, the car will automatically lower them about 1” when you release the front or rear clamp.



 
FlyingDutchman

FlyingDutchman

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Scales Mound, IL
You were going to buy a type R anyway right?

Struggling to get the Legacy listed. Wanted to detail/wax it before taking pictures. Spent hours shampooing the seats and now am polishing the body. Going to have to give up at some point.
 
CentaurG2

CentaurG2

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I can’t afford 2 civic type R’s. Base bronco with a sasquatch package is looking like it might fit the other side of the bill. Simple green 50:1 makes for a good easy upholstery cleaner. Just hit the tough spots, give it a brush with a tooth brush, vac out as much as you can with a wet dry vac. Repeat the process with just distilled H20 and let it dry and you should be good to go.

Klasse all in one is an excellent auto polish, very durable and very easy to use. German stuff so it is a bit pricy but you can use it on every part of the exterior and a little goes a long way. Don’t bother with the klasse sealant. Good old Nu Finish will also work very well and is available everywhere. Top end would be 2 coats of Collinite insulator wax followed by a coat of Power Lock but that seems a bit much on a car you are going to sell.
 
FlyingDutchman

FlyingDutchman

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The problem is the paint on this Subaru is really soft and easily damaged, it does not respond to wax or polish like any other car I've had. I've tried to keep it up but everything damages it. It's not the worst paint ever, a 2008 Focus takes that cake. The paint looks worse imo than the paint on my 96 Truck up close. It's metallic black. Most wax, like reasonably expensive Meguiars synthetic wax and regular cheap turtle wax leaves the car looking greasy and streaky. I did get some Griot's Garage spray wax that seems to work okay I've been using. It's a delicate process to clay bar/polish it enough to even be waxable to not be streaky/ splotchy. Hoping the last sendoff helps me make a little better money on the car.

Several colors of the older RAM pickups like metallic green and black (all names that are discontinued colors) seem to have a similar issue. Guessing it's a paint supplier for multiple mfg's. When I took the car in to the dealership for the pine tar damage, the body tech basically said "they don't make paint like they used to, good luck with that."
 
CentaurG2

CentaurG2

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All modern car paint is way to thin. A pine needle falling out of the sky will scratch Mazda paint. Xpel is about the only solution I know of but it is just so expensive.

You might look into have the car professionally detailed. You could recoup the cost in resale. Another product I have found to work very well on Japan cars is Reload but it needs to be applied to clean and polished surface.

https://www.autogeek.net/cquartz-reload-spray.html



You best bet might be a can of good old mothers carnauba gold cleaner wax. Been working well for years.



 
FlyingDutchman

FlyingDutchman

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I have the Mother's Cleaner wax, I haven't tried it in awhile but got the greasy/streaky effect with it too. Tried 3M Fill-N-Glaze, JaxWax spray wax, Meguiars NXT2, Wizards Paint sealant, and Turtle Wax paste. Right now what's working is Wizards Scratch Remover and paint cleaner, a Mother's clay bar and quick detailer, and about 3 coats of this stuff. https://www.amazon.com/Griots-Garag...3QE3GSEJ77RE&refRID=PWXTWXCP3QE3GSEJ77RE&th=1 There is still real damage to the paint that needs a buffer and someone who knows their compounds to get it done up right.

The truck is going to get olive drab flat paint and all the detailing crap is going in the garage sale lol.
 
CentaurG2

CentaurG2

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Yup. There is something to be said for flat camo, desert tan or flat olive drab paint. Best auto “paint” I have ever seen was down on the outer banks in NC. We went on a “horse tour” to see the wild mustangs. The company used real Humvees and they were “painted” desert tan with Rhino Liner. Just hose them down and you are done!
 
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