How do you guys sharpen chains?

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memory

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I was wondering how do you sharpen your chainsaw chains? Do you sharpen them by hand or with a machine? Whenever we have ours sharpened, we take them to somebody we know that has a machine that sharpens them. His machine is similar to this: Carlton 510C 510B Chainsaw Chain Sharpener Oregon 510A - eBay (item 170606196851 end time Mar-22-11 10:41:00 PDT). It is not that same brand but same concept.

We just had to buy a new bar and some new chains for our saw. I have noticed that the new chains are a whole lot sharper than the ones we have sharpened. Maybe the machine is not sharpening the chains just right.
 
I recently learned to sharpen with a file and it has sped up my work flow a lot.
It really works well to stop and sharpen every 30 minutes or so.
Go to the Sthil web site and find their video on sharpening - it will tell you everything you need to know.
 
Granberg filing jig

I ordered a Granberg system last year and absolutely love it. I take a few extra chains with me when I cut. When the chain quits producing chips I change it out. When I get a few chains dull I grab a few cold ones and spend quality time with myself. It takes less than min to attach it to the bar and then 3 to 5 strokes with the file on each cutter... Dad has a bench grinder so i have access to both...I prefer the file system for quality of sharpness.

I think it's like $30 bucks and worth every penny. I think that Stihl has a system too.
 
Every chain I have tried to sharpen by hand cuts a beautiful curve afterwords. The ones I sharpen with my 511A cuts fast and straight. I carry several spare chains with me and just swap them out when they get dull. I only have to kiss the teeth with the grinder to get them sharp again. Anyone who both sells and sharpens chains will take alot more off than I have to.:msp_mad:
 
Anyone who both sells and sharpens chains will take alot more off than I have to.:msp_mad:

That's the key IMHO. I use a file because it doesn't take off nearly as much material. I take a stroke or two off ever cutter every time I fill up the tank (I cut a lot of wood that has been skidded out to where I can get to it). It only takes me about 5 min, and it gives the saw a chance to cool off. One or two strokes is plenty to keep the chain sharp, and the chain lasts a LONG time that way. Grinding too much off with a machine is a good way to ruin the temper on the teeth.

I also carry a cheap set of calipers in my tool box, and I use them every once in a while to check the lenght of all the cutters. I bring them back to within 0.005" of each other (if needed). I do that two or three times a season depending on how much I've been cutting. When I'm measuring the cutters, I'm normally using the Granberg filing jig that I have. When I'm in the field, I use the cheap STIHL file guide and that's it.
 
How do I sharpen my chains?It all depends on the conditions.And it should for you as well!
Grinders are fine, but if you want maximum life out of your chains, then you need to buckle down and learn to hand file.I dont care how careful you are with a grinder,its going to take more meat off than a file.However, there are times when a grinder is the tool for the job.

Learn to hand file.Its quicker to file a chain than to swap it out unless you are running a long bar.I can still file a 28 inch chain faster than I can swap it out.File often, dont wait until the dang thing isnt cutting anymore, the bar is smoking, and you are wearing your arms out pressing the thing through the wood.Keep the tip out of the dirt,watch for metal when you can, and dont lend the dang thing to a co worker.
Eventually, you are going to kiss the ground, hit some barb wire,or your wife will lose her mind and loan it to her sisters boyfriends best friend who lives in a rock pile,and you will be faced with a rocked out chain.Good time to turn to the grinder.

First off, get rid of the wife.If you are scared of her rolling pin, wait until she goes to sleep.No point in sharpening your chain just to have her loan the thing back out. For a small fee several freight companies will pick up a box even if its kicking and screaming.PM me if you need their contact number.

The idea with a grinder is to restore a chain back to its profile,so take it easy.Remove no more metal than necessary,and take your time.blue teeth are a great way to spruce up your saw,but they dont cut very well for very long.Let the chain cool a second or two between swipes if you need to.Any time you grind a chain, you also need to look at your rakers.Chances are, you will need to lower them if you want any production out of them.Get a gauge, dont just count on the "three swipes per raker" method because a file does not always take the same amount per file.Rakers that are set an uneven depth will cause the chain to surge in the wood, and make for a very jerky cut.Again, precision is what you should strive for.Speed will come later as you learn.

Any questions?
 
Like fields_mj, I file the cutters after each tankful, usually only one or two strokes, this is just with a file/handle, no guide or holder. When I get home, and do my daily saw maintenance, I use a file holder, and usually only two to three strokes/cutter. After every 4 - 5 times I check the depth gauges. I used to use File Guide contraptions, but after enough practice, sharpening by "hand" now works great for me.

This way I'm always touching up a sharp chain, instead of sharpening a dull one.
 
check your raker height on the chains you've had ground from the dealer...

i asked a local dealer about how/what he sets the rakers at ??
he just looked at me and said " we don't do rakers, if they want to they can do that themselves"............

i go, "huh, you give em back a chain with sharp teeth that can't even reach the wood ??"
he says, "yep"..
still scratchin my head over that one...
 
Avalancher? Your wife must be a saint!!!:hmm3grin2orange:
To the OP? Yes, it's hard to improve on OEM chains. I use a hand file only, but only because I haven't shelled out the money for a grinder. I have, however gotten out the micrometer and measured teeth to get them back to as identical as possible after a horrible event... I.E. Rock, Bucket of tractor, Fence, BIL's saw....... Just be as precise as possible... That goes for the rakers too...
 
check your raker height on the chains you've had ground from the dealer...

i asked a local dealer about how/what he sets the rakers at ??
he just looked at me and said " we don't do rakers, if they want to they can do that themselves"............

i go, "huh, you give em back a chain with sharp teeth that can't even reach the wood ??"
he says, "yep"..
still scratchin my head over that one...

That's a time over money thing. I'm sure he would do it right idf the customer would pay for it. But at $5 to sharpen I bet most dealer hope nobody ever brings a chain in.
 
I've often wondered if it's worth sharpening a chain. Would you be better off just getting a new chain everytime youj need one. If you buy a spool of chain and make your own you have around $11 in a 16" chain. If I don't hit anything I can easily cut 3-4 cords with a chain before it gets to dull. I have thought about just cutting until a chain is dull then swappiong a new one. Once you have 5 dull ones sell them on e-bay. I bet they would average $7-8 a piece. If that is the case it only costs you about $1 a cord to have a new chain everytime you cut. Now if you rock one it will cost you a couple dollars more. Has anyone else thought about doing this?

Scott
 
I've often wondered if it's worth sharpening a chain. Would you be better off just getting a new chain everytime youj need one. If you buy a spool of chain and make your own you have around $11 in a 16" chain. If I don't hit anything I can easily cut 3-4 cords with a chain before it gets to dull. I have thought about just cutting until a chain is dull then swappiong a new one. Once you have 5 dull ones sell them on e-bay. I bet they would average $7-8 a piece. If that is the case it only costs you about $1 a cord to have a new chain everytime you cut. Now if you rock one it will cost you a couple dollars more. Has anyone else thought about doing this?

Scott

It wouldn't work for me. I cut Utah Juniper for firewood, and the bark is very shaggy and collects windblown dirt. It dulls chains quick!!
 
Most of the time I use a file,and dont worry about the rakers. When chain is rocked- I'll use a chain grinder and then follow up with a file- a grinder will never match a file when it comes to really sharp chains and this has worked for 35 years.
 
Grab a roller file guide for 10 bucks or so from your Husky-jred dealer.
pretty soon you'll be sharpening chains that will be faster than new.
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Most of the time I use a file,and dont worry about the rakers. When chain is rocked- I'll use a chain grinder and then follow up with a file- a grinder will never match a file when it comes to really sharp chains and this has worked for 35 years.
If I sharpen a chain and it doesn't want to self feed very well, then I will take 1 swipe with a flat file on the rakers.
Much less work to cut if you don't have to push on the saw.
 
Granberg

I hand filed for years , then I found the granberg file system , it was a dream come true. it files the same all the time , I give it 3 stroaks and I move on, I have 2 Granbergs , 1 for each side.

TEDMI

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Them grinders will burn your chain. You can't beat a rat tail file to sharpen the teeth and a flat file to take down the rakers.
 
I hand filed for years , then I found the granberg file system , it was a dream come true. it files the same all the time , I give it 3 stroaks and I move on, I have 2 Granbergs , 1 for each side.

TEDMI

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000_0766.jpg


000_0765.jpg

Yep, I used one of those in the "old days".
 
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