How hot should hydraulic fluid get in a splitter?

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View attachment 300157View attachment 300155I'm running a homemade splitter and I think the fluid is getting pretty hot. The splitter was given to me after sitting in the woods for 12 years. I tore it completely apart and rebuilt it. It has a 6.5hp Honda GX 200 and a 4x24 cylinder. I have no idea who made the pump or how many gpm it is. I believe I need a larger reservoir and that might help its only 4.75 gallons. The splitter is doing a great job and has split a ton of wood since I got it together. I fired it up today and split some cherry nd locust. After running for about 45 minutes I stuck a thermometer in the tank and it went up to 195* degrees! Is this normal or am I running hot? Outside temps were in the upper 70's today.
View attachment 300157View attachment 300155I'm running a homemade splitter and I think the fluid is getting pretty hot. The splitter was given to me after sitting in the woods for 12 years. I tore it completely apart and rebuilt it. It has a 6.5hp Honda GX 200 and a 4x24 cylinder. I have no idea who made the pump or how many gpm it is. I believe I need a larger reservoir and that might help its only 4.75 gallons. The splitter is doing a great job and has split a ton of wood since I got it together. I fired it up today and split some cherry nd locust. After running for about 45 minutes I stuck a thermometer in the tank and it went up to 195* degrees! Is this normal or am I running hot? Outside temps were in the upper 70's today.
I’ve never measured the temp but I found that a beer break is a very good way to cool down the hydraulic oil .
 
Think of it this way. Your hydraulic transmission in your car or truck can run as high as 220+ degrees and it does this with no issues at all. When you compress air or fluids they get hot, it's normal. Thats why your cylinder is hotter then the oil tank, it's being compressed in the cylinder causing heat build up. I would suspect that hydraulic cylinders are built to resist heat because heat is a given when you compress a fluid. My air compressor also gets very hot and will burn you if you touch it after it has run for awhile. When that pressure is released it cools back down.
 
Think of it this way. Your hydraulic transmission in your car or truck can run as high as 220+ degrees and it does this with no issues at all. When you compress air or fluids they get hot, it's normal. Thats why your cylinder is hotter then the oil tank, it's being compressed in the cylinder causing heat build up. I would suspect that hydraulic cylinders are built to resist heat because heat is a given when you compress a fluid. My air compressor also gets very hot and will burn you if you touch it after it has run for awhile. When that pressure is released it cools back down.

I don't agree with all of your physics but I love your gusto!
 
Can Engine Oils Replace Hydraulic Oils?
Noria news wires
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"It is a common practice in the construction and mining industries to use engine oil SAE 10, SAE 20 or SAE 30 with the lowest API rating as a substitute for hydraulic oil ISO 32, ISO 46 or ISO 68, respectively for hydraulic systems of heavy equipment. Is it a problem to use these? What integrity or lack of it does it give to the machine and to the people working around the site?"


This is dependent on the equipment and manufacturer. There is a class of hydraulic fluids (DIN 51524) that contains dispersive and detersive additives much like engine oils. The use of these fluids is approved by many manufacturers and can offer several advantages in mobile equipment such as preventing varnish and sludge.

However, these detergents and dispersants can cause the fluid to emulsify any water that is present, rather than shedding water as you would want in a standard hydraulic system. The water is kept in suspension, which can cause a reduction in both lubricity and filterability, leading to the potential for corrosion and cavitation.

These problems can be avoided if the water content is maintained below 0.1 percent. Hydraulic fluid with the ability to emulsify small amounts of water can be beneficial in mobile applications. In some cases, the original equipment manufacturer even recommends using multi-grade engine oil rather than a single viscosity fluid.

Obviously, SAE and ISO use two different scales to measure viscosity. SAE 10W is equivalent to ISO 32, SAE 20 is equivalent to ISO 46 and 68, and SAE 30 is equivalent to ISO 100. As you can see, there is a bit of a difference between ISO 68 and SAE 30.

The viscosity of the fluid largely determines the oil temperatures within which the hydraulic system can safely operate. So if you use oil with too high a viscosity for the conditions in which the machine must operate, the oil won’t flow properly or lubricate adequately during a cold start. Likewise, if you use oil with too low a viscosity for the conditions, it won’t maintain the required minimum viscosity, and therefore adequate lubrication, on the hottest days of the year.

Some equipment manufacturers recommend using multi-grade engine oil in hydraulic systems for their mobile equipment. Viscosity index (VI) improvers extend the operating temperature range for the fluids. Just keep in mind that over time these VI improvers will "shear down," which will cause a change in the viscosity of the fluid at a given temperature. This will have an impact on the performance of the system.
 
Stephen Bogert, former hs teacher at NYC DOE
Answered Feb 17, 2018 · Author has 1.2k answers and 466.3k answer views
Engine oil has additives to handle the higher temperatures, to maintain viscosity over a range of temperature, to suspend dirt-especially carbon particles, etc. Engine oil is marked with standardized symbols to define its function, the reliability of an engine depends on the function of actual engine oil of the correct specification.

There are many specialized types of hydraulic oil too, but the basic oil is a simple lubricant. Many engine oils will function in a basic hydraulic application, such as hand operated jacks, but basic hydraulic oil would not protect an engine.
 
It's awesome that my 6 year old thread that I forgot about is back alive! Here's a little update! I still dont have a larger reservoir. I did get new hydraulic lines with high flow 90's but haven't installed them yet. I found I dont like to split wood in the summer so I have only been using the splitter in cooler weather. I also dont split for more than an hour or so.
 
Right now I have about 6 to 10 cords to split with about half of it is Oak. Weather being in the 90's is going to create some heat in the splitter and make me wilt faster. When my helper shows up we will go as long as we can. I touch some of the fittings to see what kind of temps we are dealing with. When I dribble some water on some of the hotter fittings and they immediately start to bubble then I know it is time for some breaks. I boxed some of the I beam so oil can flow through it to dissipate more heat. The splitter that I am starting on a new build will have two larger heavy wall tubing as the back bone allowing the oil to flow through two six foot tubes to control the temperature. What was a concern for me was what about when its cold out side. Then I figured all that was needed was to limit the air flowing over the tubing. Thanks
 
Think of it this way. Your hydraulic transmission in your car or truck can run as high as 220+ degrees and it does this with no issues at all. When you compress air or fluids they get hot, it's normal. Thats why your cylinder is hotter then the oil tank, it's being compressed in the cylinder causing heat build up. I would suspect that hydraulic cylinders are built to resist heat because heat is a given when you compress a fluid. My air compressor also gets very hot and will burn you if you touch it after it has run for awhile. When that pressure is released it cools back down.
Typical seals are rated for 180 degrees. You car has special seals that can take higher temps. Your cylinder is hot because that's where the inefficiencies in flow are. You can't compress liquids.
 
I've got a 27 ton Troy-Bilt and it gets pretty hot, can tell you it's not 190 or even 160, but maybe 150 at the most. I may be wrong about this, but it seems like Barnes has the corner of hydraulic log splitter pump and control valve market and my splitter is no exception to that rule. The manual for my slitter specifically calls out an anti-wear straight SAE 10 weight hydraulic fluid, which is AW 32. Most decent auto parts stores (Napa, CarQuest) have it in five gallon pails.
I have the same splitter and after about a hour the cylinder get hot to the touch , i have a question for you about the 27 ton troy built you have , mine has the 160cc honda motor on it , the fuel tank is something like .3 of a gallon , is yours the same? I get maybe around 45 mins run time before i have to refill , yours the same? Im thinking about putting a 2 or 3 gallon on it so i dont have to stop so much during the day to refuel
 
“Hydraulic fluid temperatures above 180F (82C) damage most seal compounds and accelerate degradation of the oil”. (From Brendan Casey - Author of 'Hydraulics Made Easy')

Does an oil cooler make much of a difference? You Bet!!!
- I live in central Missouri & do a lot of splitting in the upper 90-105F temperatures. Using a $25 Harbor Freight infrared thermometer did several temperature checks on all the components in the hydraulic circuit.
- Splitting in the shade average temperature was 175F (outside temperature was 98F).
- I added an oil cooler, 20x20", & the temperature dropped to around 130F.
- Added a box fan between the oil cooler and the hydraulic cylinder. (Pulls air across the cylinder & blows it through the oil cooler.) Temperature dropped to the low 120s F.
- The fan is powered with a 200 watt inverter connected to the battery for the electric start of the engine. Fan is a $2 yard sale special.

I have 3/4" lines between the valves (x4), the return lines / oil cooler inlet-outlets / filter / tank inlet & use ISO 46 hydraulic fluid. The pump is a Haldex/Barnes 16 gpm 2 stage.

For a breather on my tank, I have 1-1/4" pipe coming up, over, then pointed downward. I stuffed bronze wool in the down pipe for a filter & to keep little critters out.

John
You have My pics of that setup ? Id like to install something like this to my splitter
 
cooler the better. Someone said "if the hoses are too hot to hang onto, then it is too hot. You could hang onto the heater hoses in your truck for a few moments, that is a bit too hot.
I like the 165 or a 150 temp a lot better. Hot enough to drive condensation out of the system. Makes a nice finger warmer on cool days.
Put on a giant tank, avoid 90 deg fittings.
 
What ‘feels hot to the touch’ is not likely hot in hydraulics world.
Minimum 120F, Max 160.
I like 140F, usually picked controls for cooler on 120 or so, warn at 160F, alarm at 180F. Never had auto shutdown because system functions were critical and lot of expensive damage if it shut down by itself.
 
It's awesome that my 6 year old thread that I forgot about is back alive! Here's a little update! I still dont have a larger reservoir. I did get new hydraulic lines with high flow 90's but haven't installed them yet. I found I dont like to split wood in the summer so I have only been using the splitter in cooler weather. I also dont split for more than an hour or so.
Still going strong 💪dan. I'm reading it all now as I have a 25t County line splitter and am worried about heat. It says 11 sec cycle time and I can run it as fast as it can go.
 
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