How many logs will fit on log truck?

[parttime]

woodchuck it's a mix of 8, 12 and 16's. The logs are scaled at the mill, only weigh the low grade and pulp. I don't know of any trucks with scales. The pup rig is good in tight places, the tractor can't make it to the latest landing, road work is in order.

 

[woodchuckerwood]

To the OP- 5000 bf on a truck and pup. 98,000lbs is the limit here. I average about 65-70 logs per load, random length hardwood. I've cut several 1000bf oaks and they never look as big on the truck. They can tuck em right in. Your picture shows maybe a 400bfer.

Remember you will always get less than anticipated when they scale it in the yard. ALWAYS.

That's what is confusing me, Had a logger of 30 years, & two forester's (one from the state) measure a tree smaller than that & tell me it was over 800 bf. I went online to woodweb to their log volume calculator & put in conservitive numbers of 20" dia & 45' tall with international scale & it came up with 985 bf, it it that far off?

 

[northmanlogging]

there is a difference between log volume and mbf as stated before the mill pays and measures from a square chunk down the middle, the rest if considered "waste" which means you don't get paid for it, which means loggers don't even think about it except in terms of how bloody heavy is this log...

 

[woodchuckerwood]

there is a difference between log volume and mbf as stated before the mill pays and measures from a square chunk down the middle, the rest if considered "waste" which means you don't get paid for it, which means loggers don't even think about it except in terms of how bloody heavy is this log...

Does a Biltmore stick measure volume or mbf?

 

[woodchuckerwood]

there is a difference between log volume and mbf as stated before the mill pays and measures from a square chunk down the middle, the rest if considered "waste" which means you don't get paid for it, which means loggers don't even think about it except in terms of how bloody heavy is this log...

Still confused? I am a custom woodworker, so I measure bf all the time. If my tree is 22" on small end & 45' long, so I took compass & drew a 22" diameter circle, then squared it off. It came out to be 15 ½” x 15 ½” squared, which is equal to 20 bf pre foot, x 45’ = 900 bf. Am I still wrong? I know I have lot to learn, thanks for all input?

 

[northmanlogging]

well yer math matches my math??? just remember yer not going to take a 45 footer to the mill down there so you lose a little when ya buck em down cause ya gotta leave a little extra and each log will be scaled. I do believe that they use the doyle scale out east? that could be the difference, out here its mostly the scribner scale (a few of the little guys use doyle). I would trust the word of the locale guys more than mine though...

 

[bitzer]

Ok so this oak was estimated at 1000bf standing. The defect in the back caused the forester to reel in the estimate some. It did have some heart rot and defect through-out, but if it had been nice and tight it would have scaled around 1500bf. It was 54" across the stump. The first buck at 8' was 48". I made 5 8s. I also snuck 2 ugly 8's and a 10' out of the top. If you made 2 16s and a 12' out of the size tree you showed you may have a 600bf oak. If the top doesn't get busted up too bad you may be able to get a couple of 8s and make up another 100bf or so. So I guess its possible. I look at those and think 500bf though. Also what was the motivation of the logger/forester who looked at them? The other thing is you will get more bf out of shorter logs. Less waste along the length.

View attachment 248361

 

[tramp bushler]

Boy ssome of you make scaling a log Real difficult . Get a Scribner scale book
If you have a good idea of the lengths they want. Get a belt and spurs and a Spencer 50' tape.
Take some sample trees, climb them taking length and circumfrence measurements. Convert circ to diameter and look up the scale in the Scribner book. That will give you the cylinder scale if there are no defect ..

If you go longer than 40' you need to use incriment scale.
A Scribner book is real handy.

 

[woodchuckerwood]

well yer math matches my math??? just remember yer not going to take a 45 footer to the mill down there so you lose a little when ya buck em down cause ya gotta leave a little extra and each log will be scaled. I do believe that they use the doyle scale out east? that could be the difference, out here its mostly the scribner scale (a few of the little guys use doyle). I would trust the word of the locale guys more than mine though...

I got 2 price sheets, both said international on them.

 

[StihlKiwi]

well yer math matches my math??? just remember yer not going to take a 45 footer to the mill down there so you lose a little when ya buck em down cause ya gotta leave a little extra and each log will be scaled. I do believe that they use the doyle scale out east? that could be the difference, out here its mostly the scribner scale (a few of the little guys use doyle). I would trust the word of the locale guys more than mine though...

If I'm reading this right, you have to cut your logs over length for the mill?

 

[woodchuckerwood]

If I'm reading this right, you have to cut your logs over length for the mill?

At least 6".

 

[StihlKiwi]

At least 6".

That seems like a lot to me. How do the mills justify that?

 

[Oldtimer]

That seems like a lot to me. How do the mills justify that?

Hardwoods will check on the ends, worse in summer, but they will do it year round. The trim allows for a full length board. Right now, if you cut a nice white ash log here....it will crack at least 6", and I have seen them split entirely into 2 sections. Sounds crazy, but it's true.

Bitzer, that big oak went through a fire?

 

[Oldtimer]

Chucker, not to be a dub, but you know how to get those big oaks down without splitting them or pulling tails? Just wondering how much of this you have done?

 

[StihlKiwi]

Hardwoods will check on the ends, worse in summer, but they will do it year round. The trim allows for a full length board. Right now, if you cut a nice white ash log here....it will crack at least 6", and I have seen them split entirely into 2 sections. Sounds crazy, but it's true.

Bitzer, that big oak went through a fire?

Thanks for that, now that you say it it obvious but the hardwood checking thing never even crossed my mind. Not something we have to deal with much down here.

I guess that would mean you're better off cutting longer logs, less saleable volume wasted that way

 

[woodchuckerwood]

Chucker, not to be a dub, but you know how to get those big oaks down without splitting them or pulling tails? Just wondering how much of this you have done?

I have cut firewood for 35 years, & dont ever remember a tree splitting or pulling tails. Never really cared because it was firewood. Now I care, all will go to hell hahaha? Forester was looking at all my stumps and said I was cutting too big of notch and was cutting too much, not leaving much of a hinge? will take any advice thoe. My big red oaks are real bushy at top.

 

[Oldtimer]

Thanks for that, now that you say it it obvious but the hardwood checking thing never even crossed my mind. Not something we have to deal with much down here.

I guess that would mean you're better off cutting longer logs, less saleable volume wasted that way

The mills we send to here prefer 10'6" if they can get it. After that, it's 9'6". Pallet makes no difference. I only worry about sending 9 or 10 foot logs when it is (or damn well should be!) Veneer. Sawlog and pallet I cut for max scale and or least amount of wasted wood. No sense in cutting a 10' sawlog sending 3' of sound log in for pulp. So I'd cut a 12.

 

[Oldtimer]

I have cut firewood for 35 years, & dont ever remember a tree splitting or pulling tails. Never really cared because it was firewood. Now I care, all will go to hell hahaha? Forester was looking at all my stumps and said I was cutting too big of notch and was cutting too much, not leaving much of a hinge? will take any advice thoe. My big red oaks are real bushy at top.

I'll get hell for telling you this, but with top grade oak I'd rather cut it right off the stump than split it or turn a veneer log into pallet with a huge 2' tail pulled out.
I always cut my oaks to go the way it's leaning anyway, so cutting it nearly off the stump isn't as bad as it would be otherwise..

Cut a 1/3 notch, I never worry about a wide face myself, some guys start the top notch cut 18" above the base..never saw the need.
I always try to make my cuts on big oak go slightly down into the center of the stump, so when the tree is on the ground the butt has a bit of "cone" end on it..this in my experience lets the tree break cleaner, any tail usually gets pulled out of the stump rather than the log..
Bore deeeep into the center.
Side cut till it wants to pinch...I will admit I pinch my bar a lot..Handy to have the skidder nearby...
Back-cut 1/2" above the notch base, and cut evenly and as fast as the saw will let you.
A SHARP saw makes better oak logs.

When it's on it's way, get out of dodge.

And, by all means, never take any advice that makes you feel unsafe. That log is not worth your life.

 

[bitzer]

Hardwoods will check on the ends, worse in summer, but they will do it year round. The trim allows for a full length board. Right now, if you cut a nice white ash log here....it will crack at least 6", and I have seen them split entirely into 2 sections. Sounds crazy, but it's true.

Bitzer, that big oak went through a fire?

I guess I don't know for sure, but it looked like it grew up next to another tree. The landowner counted 165 rings and he still had a foot to go in the middle that he couldn't count so that tree had put its time in. There were 5 of them like that on that job.

To the OP- bore out your heart wood across the hinge. That and lay your forks flat if you can. Red oak tops are pretty easy to bust up which will split into the last log. Reds are pretty forgiving at the stump as far as a fat hinge. You really don't need much hinge if laying with the lean, but thats not always the best way. Think constant movement of the butt over the face when the tree is going over. This will minimize your fiber pull. Narrow faces with a snipe will save a lot of cutting, pinching, and pulling.

8" of trim on 8'ers here and 6" of trim on 10s, 12s, 14s, and 16s. 4" min. accepted.

 

[northmanlogging]

around here its 6" min on short logs I.E. under 16' but everything else is 10"-12" for trim/snipe, and don't dare send in a log that's got a big fat face cut in it! They won't cull it out rite but you will lose a bunch on grade (hence the humbolt face). We leave so much for trim because the longer lengths mean more boards one 40' could potentially make 4-10's or 3-8' and a 12' the choices are endless...