How much variance can there be in left and right chain cutters

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It has a Briggs 7 HP on it but it is so old and rusty I can't find a model number. Maybe when I pull it off I will find it. It has a 1 inch shaft. I can get a 8 HP Pr editor engine at HF for 235 (maybe less if I wait for a sale or coupon) but I really don't like much of anything I buy there. Then I have a line on a Honda 13 HP one that will fit. Would it hurt to use that more powerful an engine?

I agree about HF at $235. I would not put that amount into a HF China Covid 19 engine. Although I've heard good service from the 5 hp HF predators at $100 with a coupon. You can usually find coupons on-line.

The Honda engine will only use as much power as it needs, so yes, most likely a fit, but might be little more gas consumption. You can cut down on gas consumption by installing a auto idle when the splitter wedge is at rest.

Them old old model 7 and 8 hp manual or electric start briggs are not worth the effort to do major repairs. I have a old model 8 hp electric start Briggs that I nurse along is how I know such.

Your Model number info is usually stamped into the air cowling on the edge by the carb side on the old ones and sometimes you have to remove the cowling and carefully inspect with a magnafying glass to find such and even harder to see if someone has painted over it. If it's severly rusted you can sometimes take a damp cloth and gently wipe over the rust and you will start seeing the stamped info on the air cowling. Save your old engine if it's electric start, the same parts, starter, flywheel, stator and even the carb will fit the older Horiz shaft Briggs from about 7 hp to around 11 hp, I think.
Them guys at the link I provided are small engine pro's but they have to have original Model info to give a logical answer.
 
I glanced through quickly and may have missed it, but are you sure your angle is the same from right to left? My Oregon 511 isn't. I found it very difficult to measure the compound angle from side to side, so I compared the angle settings to various new chains. My angles are ok for semi chisel, but off about 10° on one side with the tilt on full chisel.
 
I glanced through quickly and may have missed it, but are you sure your angle is the same from right to left? My Oregon 511 isn't.
I adjusted the scales on my 511A to make them more accurate / consistent.
The depth of grind, and the cutter length, can vary if the vise is not centered as the wheel wears.
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/511a-grinder-improvements-tweaks.197073/
Some of these adjustments are not available on the grinder that the OP shows. But if you know that they can happen you can adjust your technique to accommodate the differences. E.g.: figure out on which side the cutters come out longer, and adjust the chain stop. Lower the grinding head travel a little more on the far side to get equal depths. Grind '28° Left' and '32° Right' (or whatever) to get consistent angles. Etc.

Philbert
 
It appears that the bar I see in the background in one of your pictures has maybe been hot and shows burned blue metal blisters along the edge of the rail???
Look at the other side of the bar's groove and if it's even try flipper the bar over.
That bar in the pic was an old one I adapted into a chain holder using an old sprocket and a turn buckle. Lets me check and file depth gauges w/o putting the chain back on the saw.

As for the angles being equal I checked them best I could figure out how and they are within 1 degree of each other which could easily be me not getting on the mark as exact as I should.

I'll see how it goes when I have to sharpen this new chain. I've dropped all the trees I am going to this spring. I cut them into 10 foot logs. I'll get around to sectioning them up when the garden is all planted.
 

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I think maintaining same angle and rakers is more important than length. I could have sworn I've seen a YouTube vid....might have even been Buckin'...where they filed one side down to almost nothing and saw still cut straight.
Chain on my 461 visibly has different length teeth and it cuts straight as an arrow.
 
I recently bought an inexpensive electric sharpener. It works great but I'm noticing some variance in the length of the left and right cutters. You would think they would be the same. I can mich the length with my calipers. Ideally they will be the exact same but I'm guessing that's not feasible. So how much can they differ from each other and still give me a nice straight cut.
I bought one a couple of years ago. Same problem. It was $50, so i just figured it was junky. I had to changed the cut depth every time the opposite teeth were cut. It worked ok for while but after the grinding wheel wore out and i couldnt find a replacement, i gave it up for a lost cause and went back to my manual laser guide. No regrets.
 

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I figured there was a commercial version of that thing. A little pricey for me. Mine cost about $4 since I had a used sprocket.
Yours is unique, and probably works just as well for you!

How about something like this log dolly I put together after seeing what dragging a big log did to my yard!
I made something similar, many years ago, when I had to jockey about 30 railroad ties around, by hand, for a landscaping project. Lifted one end, and rolled the other, to position them with a minimum of lifting. Yours is nicer.

Philbert
 
Now my chain saw won't start. I thought I'd start a new thread to ask what to look for but I'm not sure what forum to put it in. If someone can tell me that I will start a new one. Otherwise I'll just ask to see if anyone has a suggestion. It's a Stihl MS 250. Was working great until yesterday. It was shut off like normal but won't start today. The last thing I did was cut a pretty large stump down at ground level. I tried to keep the chain out of the dirt but it may have gotten into some. It acts like it's not firing. Plug is wet when removed. I removed the air filter, plug, bar and chain and blew it out as best I could with compressed air. No luck still. I'll be taking it back to the shop unless someone has a suggestion.
 
Now my chain saw won't start. I thought I'd start a new thread to ask what to look for but I'm not sure what forum to put it in. If someone can tell me that I will start a new one. Otherwise I'll just ask to see if anyone has a suggestion. It's a Stihl MS 250. Was working great until yesterday. It was shut off like normal but won't start today. The last thing I did was cut a pretty large stump down at ground level. I tried to keep the chain out of the dirt but it may have gotten into some. It acts like it's not firing. Plug is wet when removed. I removed the air filter, plug, bar and chain and blew it out as best I could with compressed air. No luck still. I'll be taking it back to the shop unless someone has a suggestion.

If it was running until you shut it off, is getting fuel (wet plug) and spark- all that is left is compression...........
If nothing obvious is broken, saw pulls over just like normal- but will not start, try pulling the plug- putting a teaspoon of oil down the plug hole, swill the oil around a bit, put the plug back in and try to start the saw.
It will smoke worse that a Marine in the Pacific during the 40's, but if it fires up- my guess would be your saw has a toasted piston/ring- possibly cylinder.
 
You made me remember I have a compression test kit. I get 30 PSI after 3 or more pulls. Seemed low so I tried it on my leaf blower and it only gets 20 PSI. Leaf blower runs good though?? I just looked at several videos and it looks like I should be getting 80 -150 PSI. Then I put a teaspoon of oil in cylinder. I could not get it to crank but one stroke at a time. I was afraid I was going to pull the rope off. Drained the oil and I can crank it now but still no fire.
 
So you have compression- but no spark?
Try swapping out the old spark plug for a new set gapped one.
I have only 30 PSI which seems low. Tomorrow I will use my compression tester on my old Chevy to see if it is working correctly. I did swap the plug from the leaf blower (same plug and gap) but no luck.
Yesterday I rigged up a screwdriver to ground out the plug while I had it connected to the ignition wire and hanging where I could see it and I did see some spark. Didn't seem like a lot so I thought maybe it was just not grounded well. Today I inserted a different plug so I had something to connect a wire clamp onto and then on the other end a clamp on the plug hanging free. But I get no spark from that set up.
 
I have only 30 PSI which seems low. Tomorrow I will use my compression tester on my old Chevy to see if it is working correctly. I did swap the plug from the leaf blower (same plug and gap) but no luck.
Yesterday I rigged up a screwdriver to ground out the plug while I had it connected to the ignition wire and hanging where I could see it and I did see some spark. Didn't seem like a lot so I thought maybe it was just not grounded well. Today I inserted a different plug so I had something to connect a wire clamp onto and then on the other end a clamp on the plug hanging free. But I get no spark from that set up.

I would read nothing in to your compression test- unless you know the tester is set up for and designed to give true readings on small motors- if it is an automotive tester- odds are it will not give a true reading on a small capacity chainsaw motor.
Sounds like you might have an electrical problem- could well be a fault around the kill switch area- turned the running well saw off and now it wont run........ is the kill switch wiring earthing out- still contacting the metal spring like tab? That will certainly ruin your spark plugs ability to spark.
 
I would read nothing in to your compression test- unless you know the tester is set up for and designed to give true readings on small motors- if it is an automotive tester- odds are it will not give a true reading on a small capacity chainsaw motor.
Sounds like you might have an electrical problem- could well be a fault around the kill switch area- turned the running well saw off and now it wont run........ is the kill switch wiring earthing out- still contacting the metal spring like tab? That will certainly ruin your spark plugs ability to spark.
Now you're getting into an area I'm not familiar with. I guess I'll let the shop have it tomorrow. Thanks for the input.
 
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