I recently bought an inexpensive electric sharpener. It works great but I'm noticing some variance in the length of the left and right cutters. You would think they would be the same. I can mich the length with my calipers. Ideally they will be the exact same but I'm guessing that's not feasible. So how much can they differ from each other and still give me a nice straight cut.
How much variance can there be in left and right chain cutters
- Thread starter Winch
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On the other hand the cutters can be all over the place with various lengths.
If you file the depth gages accordingly, so that each tooth removes the same amount of wood.
On the other hand the cutters can be all over the place with various lengths.
If you file the depth gages accordingly, so that each tooth removes the same amount of wood.
Is it one like a Dremel tool, or one like a small chop saw. The ones like a chop saw have a stop on them so both side are even don't they? I hand file, so not the best source for grinders.
Here are some pics. There is an adjustable stop behind the link to be sharpened which determines how much is taken off each link. You pull the chain back against it tight and then turn the lever in front to lock it in place.
I just sharpened another chain I have. I made no changes to the stop. You would think the cutters would be the same left and right but they aren't. I miched each link. The right cutters varied from 8.45 to 8.66 mm. The left varied from 7.72 to 8.42. Throwing out the high and low lengths then computing averages the left cutters are 8.28 mm and the right 8.57 for an average difference of .29 mm.
What I'm noticing is that usually I have to tilt the saw slightly to get it to really bite into a log. Thus my cuts are not straight up and down. I guess I need to adjust the stop on left and right to try to get the cutters the same length. That seems like a pita so I was wondering how much variance is tolerable.
I just sharpened another chain I have. I made no changes to the stop. You would think the cutters would be the same left and right but they aren't. I miched each link. The right cutters varied from 8.45 to 8.66 mm. The left varied from 7.72 to 8.42. Throwing out the high and low lengths then computing averages the left cutters are 8.28 mm and the right 8.57 for an average difference of .29 mm.
What I'm noticing is that usually I have to tilt the saw slightly to get it to really bite into a log. Thus my cuts are not straight up and down. I guess I need to adjust the stop on left and right to try to get the cutters the same length. That seems like a pita so I was wondering how much variance is tolerable.
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Seven years ago I bought a 100' reel of Oregon 75LGX and all of the right cutters were higher than the left. The depth gauges were the same height on both sides. So, the right side of the chain cut faster than the left. On big logs it was impossible to buck cut straight down. The dealer verified it and replaced the reel.
What I'm noticing is that usually I have to tilt the saw slightly to get it to really bite into a log. Thus my cuts are not straight up and down. I guess I need to adjust the stop on left and right to try to get the cutters the same length. That seems like a pita so I was wondering how much variance is tolerable.
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I hand file and I've seen the length of the cutters all over the place and still get a good straight cut if the depth tangs or rakers are set accordingly AND THE BAR IS OK..
A worn out bar will cause such or sometimes low kickback chains are a pain.
Put a new chain on the bar and test will give you a good hint.
But again little hard to tell from the pic's but appears something amiss about the rakers or depth tangs??????????
[/QUOTE]
I hand file and I've seen the length of the cutters all over the place and still get a good straight cut if the depth tangs or rakers are set accordingly AND THE BAR IS OK..
A worn out bar will cause such or sometimes low kickback chains are a pain.
Put a new chain on the bar and test will give you a good hint.
But again little hard to tell from the pic's but appears something amiss about the rakers or depth tangs??????????
Welcome to A.S.!
Generally, the chain manufacturers (STIHL, Oregon, etc.) recommend maintaining cutter the same length. A micrometer might be overkill.
I sharpen all the cutters on one side; do a 'test' cutter on the other side; then hold them back-to-back for a visual comparison. Make any adjustments, then do the rest. Over time, you will learn how different your grinder is between R and L sides, and be able to guess about making any adjustment before even doing your 'test' cutter on the other side. Make sure that your depth gauges are also the same.
Unless your chain pulls to one side, you are good to go!
Philbert
Winch, do you always take the raker down almost level with the anti-vibe strap?
Brownthumb
ArboristSite Operative
None it will pull to one side or the other
Those are reduced kickback bumpers on the drive links. They both have to be adjusted for the chain to cut properly. Note the wear indicator line in his second photo. STIHL thinks that this is as low as you will need to adjust the height over the life of the chain.
Philbert
I'm not familiar with a few terms like anti-vibe strap and rakers. I assume the depth tangs are the upright tangs between cutters. I file them down flush with a .025 Oregon depth gauge. I assume they both get filed down at the same time and it doesn't matter which side I file from?? Let me know if that's not right.
I am wondering about the bar. I had the local shop look at it and they said it looked fine. That was weeks ago when I was really having trouble getting it to work no matter how I sharpened the chain. Then I noticed there was a lot of gunk in the slot. After cleaning that out and filing it flat and checking with a small square it cut much better. But still not as great as the last time I bought a new bar and chain. That worked great for a while but it's been long time since then.
I am wondering about the bar. I had the local shop look at it and they said it looked fine. That was weeks ago when I was really having trouble getting it to work no matter how I sharpened the chain. Then I noticed there was a lot of gunk in the slot. After cleaning that out and filing it flat and checking with a small square it cut much better. But still not as great as the last time I bought a new bar and chain. That worked great for a while but it's been long time since then.
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Tooth length matters VERY little in the wide scope of things.
The fact each individual cutter must be SHARP and correspond to its OWN raker- makes a huge difference.
Can you add some photos of the cutting profile of the teeth, on each side left and right?
If you got a bit deep in the gullet on one side, not getting a good cut on the leading edge on the top plate of the teeth- but getting the leading edge on the other- the chain will pull to the sharp side.
Matters not if hand filing, or rotary grinding- the above rings true. The usual fault of a pulling to the side cut is one side of the chain is sharper than the other- individual tooth length does not really come into it.
The fact each individual cutter must be SHARP and correspond to its OWN raker- makes a huge difference.
Can you add some photos of the cutting profile of the teeth, on each side left and right?
If you got a bit deep in the gullet on one side, not getting a good cut on the leading edge on the top plate of the teeth- but getting the leading edge on the other- the chain will pull to the sharp side.
Matters not if hand filing, or rotary grinding- the above rings true. The usual fault of a pulling to the side cut is one side of the chain is sharper than the other- individual tooth length does not really come into it.
'Depth gauges' are often called 'rakers'. The raised part that pairs with the depth gauge is a low kickback bumper (not on all chains). They may not be flush on new chains, but the low kickback bumper should be filed along with the depth gauge when it gets to that level.
Oregon and STIHL recommend that the depth gauges only be filed from the 'inside out' - that means you file the right ones from one side of the chain, and the others from the other side.
Philbert
Keeping the cutters the same length is a simpler way to maintain an even chain, using basic sharpening techniques and tools. It is what the chain manufacturers recommend.
Uniform cutters also produce a smoother cut, since the height and side offset ('set') are the same.
Philbert
Thanks for the diagram. That helps. I will start filing just from the inside. Here are more pics. I'm not sure if they are what was asked for. I like the tip on comparing a left and a right by holding them together. Mine now shows that .29 mm difference.
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You mentioned having somebody checking your bar condition. Here is a chart showing some things to look for on your bar. If one rail is lower it may not cut straight. The way you hold the chainsaw while cutting could load on one side of rails and wear it down.
Pulled this off of the internet from.
ego power+
chainsaw issue | EGO Customer Community
.
Pulled this off of the internet from.
ego power+
chainsaw issue | EGO Customer Community
.
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Exactly why I said in the wide scope of things.
It isn't ideal I will agree, roughly even is alway going to run better and less jumpy- but that was not the problem in the OP's original questions.
But uneven teeth, if sharp and have their rakers set to suit- cut straight- maybe not the ideal cut, or the smoothest ride...... but they cut.
One limitation of your grinder is the wheel that it uses. Some only come with one wheel thickness, even though you might use 3 different diameter files for different pitch chains.
Try your chains and see how they cut. If you are satisfied, then you are set.
If you are not, then you might want to use the grinder to restore a rocked chain, or to even up the cutters, then do your final sharpening with a file of the right size to get the cutter profile that you want.
Lots of ways to do it; figure out what works for you.
Philbert
Try your chains and see how they cut. If you are satisfied, then you are set.
If you are not, then you might want to use the grinder to restore a rocked chain, or to even up the cutters, then do your final sharpening with a file of the right size to get the cutter profile that you want.
Lots of ways to do it; figure out what works for you.
Philbert
Ah that diagram about the bar shows uneven rail thickness. I notice on mine one side is considerably thicker than the other. I don't know what could have caused that but if it can cause the problems I'm seeing then maybe it is time for a new bar.
Does your grinder vise have a set screw on the inside of it? If it does and it’s not set properly, that’s why it’s leaving one side longer than the other. If not, just adjust your tooth stop so that both cutters are the same length
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