How much variance can there be in left and right chain cutters

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Ah that diagram about the bar shows uneven rail thickness. I notice on mine one side is considerably thicker than the other. I don't know what could have caused that but if it can cause the problems I'm seeing then maybe it is time for a new bar.

It appears that the bar I see in the background in one of your pictures has maybe been hot and shows burned blue metal blisters along the edge of the rail???
Look at the other side of the bar's groove and if it's even try flipper the bar over.

Kinda appears it's time for a new bar and get a new chain AND SPROCKET at the same time. Do not get a low kickback chain if you are serious about cutting wood.
Also make sure your oiler is working good or you will ruin a new bar.
If you see any wear grooves in your sprocket, replace it or it will ruin a new chain.
If the thickness is less on one side on your bar your chain is will lean when in the cut due to the bar groove being too wide. You can check the bar groove WIDTH inside along it's length with a feeler gauge and also check it's depth.
From what I see the bar looks very?????????????able.
 
Wow what a difference a new bar and chain made. I forgot how a chain saw should cut. I miched the new chain before using it. The left cutters averaged 9.26 mm with shortest being 9.19 and longest 9.35. The right averaged 9.20 with shortest 9.04 and longest 9.33. So there is some variance even in a new chain.

The old bar had 2 problems according to Patrick's chart. The right side was way thinner than the left and it also had mushroomed out at the top.
 
New chains arent exactly perfect. But when resharpening them I make the exact same number of passes on each tooth with a file. Samething with the rakers.
 
New chains aren't exactly perfect. But when resharpening them, I make the exact same number of passes on each tooth with a file. Same thing with the rakers.
I wish the logger who gives me his long chains to sharpen did exactly the same thing. But, he claims that his right arm is stronger than his left. So, his left-side cutters are always shorter than the right-side cutters. I live with it. Maybe Philbert does also. :rolleyes:
 
With a brand new chain I can’t use it. It’s not cutting right. I open up the gullet first, then using a file n guide I sharpen the upper cutting edge with a smaller file, this makes the upper edge doing the cutting while the gullet is chip clearance. It might take me longer than 30 minutes. But in the field one pass with the file n guide keeps the chain razor sharp. Once you do it this way you won’t do it any other way.
 
With a brand new chain I can’t use it. It’s not cutting right. I open up the gullet first, then using a file n guide I sharpen the upper cutting edge with a smaller file, this makes the upper edge doing the cutting while the gullet is chip clearance. It might take me longer than 30 minutes. But in the field one pass with the file n guide keeps the chain razor sharp. Once you do it this way you won’t do it any other way.
I wish you had a uTube of your procedure. It sounds great but I haven't a clue how you do it.
 
I wish the logger who gives me his long chains to sharpen did exactly the same thing. But, he claims that his right arm is stronger than his left. So, his left-side cutters are always shorter than the right-side cutters. I live with it. Maybe Philbert does also.
Most of the chains that I get asked to sharpen have been hand filed by people who are not very good at it. Or they have hit rocks. So I use the grinder to 'even things up', including the cutters and the depth gauges. Like starting over with a fresh chain. If they were happy with their sharpening, I would never see the chains.

Philbert
 
I recently bought an inexpensive electric sharpener. It works great but I'm noticing some variance in the length of the left and right cutters. You would think they would be the same. I can mich the length with my calipers. Ideally they will be the exact same but I'm guessing that's not feasible. So how much can they differ from each other and still give me a nice straight cut.

So you need a routine; get a little back at the adjustment when changing sides. Note to yourself the average difference from one side to the other; one half turn on the adjustment wheel difference?

I might have missed something, this was my reaction to the initial post.
 
New chains arent exactly perfect. But when resharpening them I make the exact same number of passes on each tooth with a file. Samething with the rakers.

Its funny because I see all the time in here that the guys that hand files says the chain gets sharper - obviously.
Because what I've seen from hand filed chains is that they have the file too low, making the chain really sharp - and it will dull within a tank of gas.
If you have 50cc capacity its no reason to do that.
 
Its funny because I see all the time in here that the guys that hand files says the chain gets sharper - obviously.
Bacause what I've seen from hand filed chains is that they have the file too low, making the chain really sharp - and it will dull within a tank of gas.

File too low and you only have a sharp gullet- not a sharp tooth or sharp leading edge.
 
File too low and you only have a sharp gullet- not a sharp tooth or sharp leading edge.

File too high you have lets say 40* edge, file too low you have lets say 20* edge.
The file is round so if its high the edge becomes blunt or closer to 90*, file too low it becomes sharper but will dull more quickly.
file.JPG
Whitch one is the optimal 30*(60*), I don't know perhaps none - just a random illustration.
 
I'm really impressed with the info I'm getting on this site. Is there a different forum here where I can ask a question about a log splitter (the engine more specifically)? My neighbor gave me one this afternoon and I think getting a new engine might be better than trying to get the old one running right. I want to start the thread in the right place of course.

Thanks
 
Yes you sharpen the gullet and open it up with just the round file. Then the file n guide sharpens the upper edge of the cutting edge.

No Bill- that is the way YOU do it.
I do what I do and do okay without using any kind of attachment on the file except a handle.
 
This one is not in the book:
When using the types of file guides that rides on top of the rakers you need to be aware of:
AND if the rakers (depth gauges) are too high some file guides will file too high on the hook top part of the tooth and the chain will not cut good. I'm talking about the type file guide that rides on top of the raker when sharpening and the raker then determines how high the round file is sharpening the tooth.. (and the more you try to sharpen a chain using this type guide with the rakers too high the worse the chain will get)
This one is not in the book.
When you know what you are doing you don't need a file guide.
 
You asked about small engine forum: (for your wood splitter engine ?'s
Try this one: You will need to register and then give your existing engine name, model number, type number and code.
I've heard of several people that get a HF coupon and use a Harbor Freight Predator engine for around $100 with good results.
http://ppeten.com/forums/viewforum.php?f=3&sid=faff5459dd7047ded3b0243d0f40fc03
 
You asked about small engine forum: (for your wood splitter engine ?'s
Try this one: You will need to register and then give your existing engine name, model number, type number and code.
I've heard of several people that get a HF coupon and use a Harbor Freight Predator engine for around $100 with good results.
http://ppeten.com/forums/viewforum.php?f=3&sid=faff5459dd7047ded3b0243d0f40fc03
It has a Briggs 7 HP on it but it is so old and rusty I can't find a model number. Maybe when I pull it off I will find it. It has a 1 inch shaft. I can get a 8 HP Pr editor engine at HF for 235 (maybe less if I wait for a sale or coupon) but I really don't like much of anything I buy there. Then I have a line on a Honda 13 HP one that will fit. Would it hurt to use that more powerful an engine?
 
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