How to save a saw, Thread repair 101.

[JimL]

Got this wonderful 070 a while back, just now getting time to tinker with her.
Had alot of holes that were stripped out, the rear handle, and the muffler to name a few.

Here we go, First get the apropriate helicoil kit for the job, and a drill tje right size. In this case, a 6mm x 1.00 pitch uses a 1/4" drill.

Next step would be to drill the hole out.

Now you can run the tap in, I use some stuff called Tap Lube, its a paste type stuff. Works good.

 

[JimL]

After tapping blow the hole out good, and set the depth on the helicoil tool, screw it in so that the 1st thread is inside the hole a little.

Look ma, threads!

Turns out, both of the studs were put in with what looks like JB weld around them, I went to chase the treads on the other stud with die and the stud came loose. I chased the threads on both sides of each stud, put them in with loctite on them.

 

[Fish]

If it is a helicoil for the original size, I do not drill.

 

[ccicora]

I usally plug up the open port hole with a rag to help keep chips from finding there way into my motors. Sometimes just having the piston up all the way gives them corners to hide in. Just a thought. I can't wait to here how that saw runs!

Later,
Chris

 

[JimL]

Originally posted by stihlman036
I usally plug up the open port hole with a rag to help keep chips from finding there way into my motors. Sometimes just having the piston up all the way gives them corners to hide in. Just a thought. I can't wait to here how that saw runs!

Later,
Chris

Good idea, didn't really think about it, but the piston was up. I did drop a screw for the top cover down in there accidently shook it a lil upside down and it fell back out the plug hole.


How do you not drill? Just tap it, then put the insert in?

 

[ccicora]

Try this sometime with the jug off. Take the piston and put it in the jug with the rigs on. Push the piston up to about TDC. Then use a feller gage to see the clearence between the piston and wall. That is a highway right to the crank for those supper small filings that we make when we play. And YES I learned the hardway.

Chris

 

[Fish]

Yeah, if it is the correct size, all you need to do is tap.

 

[Tzed250]

New threads

I like the Time-sert better than the Heli-coil. More robust.

 

[bwalker]

TZ is right. Time certs are much more durable/strong.

 

[JimL]

I ordered some of them Time Sert things, ill give them a try. I get all my helicoil stuff through work so its cheap.

 

[Fish]

Yeah, I steal all of my helicoils from work too!

So these time serts must be synthetic?

 

[JimL]

Originally posted by Fish
Yeah, I steal all of my helicoils from work too!

So these time serts must be synthetic?

LOL!
I buy them by the dozen in a tube for like 4 bux i think, been a while.

Not sure about the time serts, i just bought a 6mm kit for 10 bux.

 

[Fish]

So that is how you Hoosiers spell BUCKS!

 

[Fish]

It is already well known about your State's Basketball
capabilities, I hope you all can do a decent helicoil!

 

[NevadaWalrus]

Time-Serts are a solid insert, not a flimsy coil.

 

[Fish]

Thanks Bob!
Do you have to remove more metal material to use them?
On chainsaws, sometime there is not much metal there to
start with.

 

[JimL]

I hope they arn't like the thread inserts we sell at work, if so you need like a 3/8 hole for a 1/4" bolt.

 

[NevadaWalrus]

I've never measured the drill bit that comes with both kits for comparison but the Time-Sert may be a bit larger. I'll look to see if I still have a Heli-Coil bit around for comparison. I've yet to find the Time-Sert bit to cause a problem with to little material to work with. Even if that were to happen, being that the Time-Sert is a solid insert I'd feel good about it if as much as 1/4 was un-supported by a thin area in the material being repaired.

 

[glens]

Jim, have a look through http://www.timesert.com/

 

[NevadaWalrus]

Fish, I couldn't find any old Heli-Coil bits to compare with but did measure 3 different Time-Sert bits. If you have a Heli-Coil bit for one of these sizes you can measure it and see if there is any significant difference.

MM
5X0.8=.199"
10X1.0=.409"

SAE
1/4x20=.265"