How To Start Modded Saw

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Plenty of hot saw racing/starting videos if you search YouTube.

Those cheap black plastic Oregon D-loops are lunch snacks for high compression saws north of 90cc & 175# compression w/ the timing advanced.

My big Stihls ate all three of them, so get steel reinforced loops for snowmobiles, if you have to go that route.

The best advice I have, came from Carl “67L36Driver“ here on AS, is to first pull it over w/ switch OFF & pull choke ON for 2 or 3 times to juice it up, now turn the switch ON, push the choke OFF, set the high idle detention, and slowly roll it past TDC, then pull it very hard like it owes you money.
 
I’ve got several ported saws . And, my MS 460 is the one that acts pretty much as the OP describes . It’sblowing 220+ comp. , slight timing advance . I put a D handle on it ,and that helps a lot . I also use the starting method posted by andyshine77 . I’ve read about others having the same thing happen with other 460’s as well .
I put it down to being the nature of that saw .
 
The best advice I have, came from Carl “67L36Driver“ here on AS, is to first pull it over w/ switch OFF & pull choke ON for 2 or 3 times to juice it up, now turn the switch ON, push the choke OFF, set the high idle detention, and slowly roll it past TDC, then pull it very hard like it owes you money.

I do something similar with my 660. With saw fully choked, I just pull on the cord slow -- not to start it but just to suck some fuel into the cylinder. I turn it over 2-3 times that way (this saves my arm) before really PULLING on it. As soon as it pops, I turn choke COMPLETELY off. Then drop-start it, making sure that I have all the slack out of the rope with the rope completely recoiled in the starter before dropping and PULLING on it HARD. I also use a Stihl d-handle from a Rescue 460, available on ebay and at dealers...
 
Start the saw between your legs. Rest it against your right thigh, hold it with the left and pull it with your right. Pull until it makes compression, apply pressure then rip it. I only handle saws with 180 psi or more and that's my go to method.
 
When the motor is cold, choke all the way, compression release in, pull til it farts.
Couple times I thought I broke my wrist.

Some people just can't do it. Send me the saw and I will send you my 235 with a spring in the starter. Good saw for a guy that can't "cut the mustard". Don't thank me, I just want you happy.
 
Some people just can't do it. Send me the saw and I will send you my 235 with a spring in the starter. Good saw for a guy that can't "cut the mustard". Don't thank me, I just want you happy.


I'll tip my hat to the O.P., takes a bigger man than me to go on a public forum full of roughnecks and say he can't get his saw started.
 
I have an 046 that’s (mostly) stock that will do its best to break your wrist, along with the 460 rescue saw on our quint. The 460 on the rescue/MPERV has high compression and dad’s 046 did. I think there’s just something with that series of saw that can make it a bear to start.

No other saw in it’s size class seems to be as hard to pull over as the 046/MS 460 series. I regularly use the bar tip on log, right hand on pistol grip and left hand on pull rope. I run a 28-32” bar on mine, the lever arm is nice and long and it starts the saw real easy while the tip of the bar is fairly far away.
 
I don't think size is as important as technique. Size helps make no mistake, but engaging the pawls before ripin" on it and getting the piston in the correct position is important. The previous mentioned lean condition is to be avoided also. A couple cranks with the switch OFF will get some juice into the cylinder and facilitate starting without kickback. You wanted a modified saw and now have it. No free lunch mister.
 
BTW anyone that thinks the 046 is hard to start should have been around to try my Mcculloch 101 race saw. It would pull the rubber part right through you fingers.
The 066 I made with removable head was almost impossible but it sure ran when it did get started. I understand the owner now has re-chambered it or put spacers for the head. Even John Lambert (gypo logger) had a hell of a time drop starting this saw.
 
BTW anyone that thinks the 046 is hard to start should have been around to try my Mcculloch 101 race saw. It would pull the rubber part right through you fingers.
The 066 I made with removable head was almost impossible but it sure ran when it did get started. I understand the owner now has re-chambered it or put spacers for the head. Even John Lambert (gypo logger) had a hell of a time drop starting this saw.
this is that saw with a new lower compression head :)
running in a cottonwood 10 x 10 for tuning testing
 
If size mattered my dad was only 4'11" and weighed less than 150 most of his life yet he drop started Pioneer 600 class saws all his life, not a lite saw by any means. He couldn`t start my 066, few inexperienced can as it destroys handles and rope in short order, priming it before pulling like you really mean it is the only way it gets running. There are days I wish it could be tow started , it has scarred my right hand many times but its my creation so I will live with it. Destroyed the Elastostart last time out, cut a 1" thick tree branch for a replacement in the field but wrecked the rope before the day was through.
 
Listen guys, I'm 6ft., 275 lbs. I can start the frickin' saw, OK? LMAO!!
It's not that I can't start it, just looking for the right combination, that's all.

So there’s no real issue, I thought you couldn’t start it. I weigh as low as 140# sometimes, & build many that take my neighbor to fire up the saws for tune & test.
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