How to Video: Crank seal replacment, Pressure testing, Vacuum testing

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Brad pick up 1128 850 4200 (it'll sub over to 5910 850 4200 ) makes life so much easier.

That one along with 1118 850 4200 and the Husky set for the 55 will cover 99% of everything you run into. :cheers:

Is this the Husky fittings you're talking about? What are the numbers under the PN?

690578621_LpA48-M.jpg
 
Thanks guys. I'm a DIY kind of guy. Yes, you can, and I did, get by without the proper puller for a long time. When I started getting into more saw work, it became apparent I needed these pullers. Yes they're pricey, VERY pricey. But you can see just how well they work.

Why did I wait so long to pressure test? I had some actual carb problems I was working on and just thought the fast idle was part of it. So I chased that tail first. It would have been quicker and easier in the long run to have just pressure tested it to begin with. But, I was not "rebuilding" this saw, just doing some mods for a friend, Nik. When I rebuild a saw, the seals come out automatically and are replaced. It's not worth trying to get around replacing them.

Anyway, I just thought I'd share what you can do in your garage with just a few tools. You can get by without the puller for a few saws, and the rest of the tools aren't that expensive.

Also, pressure and vaccum testing can have this auro around it that it's some difficult task requiring expensive and highly specialized tools. As you can see, it doesn't.

Go for it guys. Get them saws runnin' right and have some fun cutting wood this fall!

Brad, when I install any kind of seal, I will put clear platic, Saran Wrap, etc. around the shaft and over any sharp edges the seal will pass by. One microscopic nick and the seal is done.

Great Videos!!!


.
 
Brad, when I install any kind of seal, I will put clear platic, Saran Wrap, etc. around the shaft and over any sharp edges the seal will pass by. One microscopic nick and the seal is done.

Great Videos!!!


.

I bet that saran wrap works good....... Thanks. Brad, awesome thread. Makes me want to get a saw with bad seals......does that make sense??? LOL
 
Very cool vid and info Brad! Its great how you share your knowledge of the saw so freely. Your savin a lotta guys a lotta trouble and money. Your gonna have to start billing us for this stuff soon! Thanks again man!
 
The last couple days I've been working on another finicky 026. I couldn't get the idle speed down to where the chain would stop spinning. I knew I had some carbuartion issues, so just assumed that's what it was. Long story short, I finally found it had a crank seal leaking BADLY. I grabbed the video camera to show Nik what I had found on his saw. While I was at it, I thought I'd go ahead and do a little video tutorial of sorts on how to pull and replace the seal, and pressure and vaccum test the saw. BTW, the flywheel side seal on a 026 is one of the most difficult to remove. Because it is so small, it's very difficult to get anything other than the proper tool in there for removal. Enjoy.

Finding the culprit.

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Fixing the problem.

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thanks Brad
:clap:
 
Very nice!

This is wny I spend 99% of my time here reading... and only 1% posting.

Great stuff!
 
I found it interesting that my 260 had a bad flywheel side seal too. That was a couple years ago though. Just like Niks, the clutch side was fine. I believe Niks leak was worse though. I'm surprised we didn't smoke this saw running it the other night.:cry:
 
thanks for the clear instructions on pressure testing, i have a finiky 026 that dont like to come down to idle i will likely test it after i rebuild the carb tomorrow. have been sick for 3 days and have alot of catching up to do ill post my findings thanks:greenchainsaw:
 
Where can one get a puller like that and how much do they run? I could use a puller like that many, many times in the last few years.
 
Cheap seal puller?

Anyone looked at one of the Harbor Freight Seal Pullers? At $19.99, this seems to be a little more in my budget. I've been using a old screwdriver with a notch, but I'd like to find something a little bit more consistent.
 
The 064 is one that comes to mind as being a little different than some. The flywheel side seal on that model has to be seated significantly deaper than normal due to stub on the flywheel sticking out farther.

It depends on the 064. Some are deep set seals, newer ones werent...:cheers:
 
The older saws I've seen have double lip crank seals or two seals back to back - one lip in and one lip out. I figured this was to seal from both directions since you have pressure and vacuum at different points in the cycle. Is it conceivable that you could have a pressure leak that may not show up as a vac leak and vice-versa?
 
Wont run with R50 mix but runs fine with Stihl Ultra mix :scratching head:

I seen them vids on there and I always wondered how much of a job it was to change them out, I have a 046 that needs them bad and has been sitting because of it for about 6 years
 
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!

Anyone looked at one of the Harbor Freight Seal Pullers? At $19.99, this seems to be a little more in my budget. I've been using a old screwdriver with a notch, but I'd like to find something a little bit more consistent.

Saw it and wonder if it would work? For $20.00 may pick one up and see. I've pi#$ed away more money than this on parts, etc.
Bob
 
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